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PM sent, I love my "little" DC-3 ;)

Just posting to say that the DC-3 is a 35 watt amp, not a 22 watt. The DC-5 and DC-10 are 50 watts and 100/60 watts (switchable), respectively. Otherwise, a solid rundown :)

Glad to hear it! I'm surprised you aren't deaf or anything :lol: I've turned up my DC-3 (the little brother, I suppose :wink:) to about 2 and 3 or 3 and 3 in my bedroom, and I almost had a heart attack. I mean, the floor was shaking like crazy :lol: Can't wait to gig somewhere where I can really...

Sorry to bump in, but I have to say: OH MY GOD. Holy crap that is loud :shock:.

Aye, you can just snip it and yer done. On mine, I just have the four mounting screws on the top, and 2 reverb wires on the bottom left. Not sure about yours as some have a center bolt through the back--that needs to go, too.

http://forum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?t=12627&highlight=dc3+mod Original: http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=229027 Basically, you know how the output knob works on the DC-3 currently: 1-2 requires superhuman hearing 2.00001 = Monstrous volume jump 3 = Max 3+ = ??? By...

It's a small world after all :P

Apparently, the shared EQ's make the .50 hard to get a good clean tone with a good lead tone. The DC's separate channels solves that problem. That was my main reason in getting a DC.

Nice thread hijack :P All the DCs I've ever seen had the toggle switches. The difference lies in the back. Old ones had a rotary switch to toggle the EQ footswitching. The newer ones have a toggle. That's all I've really noticed, not too much of an expert ;)

I use more of a "W" shape. I started out using the "Classic V," but I was mainly screwing with the high gain metal sounds. After I had my fun with that, I found myself gradually decreasing the range of the V. Finally, I just put it in a slight W shape. This is what I use for a Gilbert/Vai/Satch...

Ugh, the before pictures both appalled and saddened me. The afters though...that's a clean beast :)

Here's the link to the original: http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=229027 Here's the link to a recent discussion. There's some pictures in there that show the resistor in the newer DC-3s http://forum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?t=16565

Sigh, people just don't take good care of other people's stuff. Thanks for the advice, though. :) Those were the only switches I wouldn't let her flip ;) Edit: I opened her back up and swapped the weird looking EL84 with the one beside it. Now it's fixed. Or perhaps ya just can't really tell...

Alright, I'm pretty pissed about this, but here goes. Two nights ago, a girl from our old high school came over. She got drunk, and kept coming in my room. I was trying to take a quiz, but y'know, I just let her stay for a bit. Then my drunk roommate comes in and complicates things. I just...

Just remove the 4 mounting screws on the top of your amp and the chassis will slide out. Be sure to deal with the wires, though. And if your metal bar is still on the back of the amp, take it off (obviously). Turn your amp off with your standby up and be sure to unplug it. It's not that...

Jeeze. I've been meaning to do this ever since I got my DC-3. I've never messed with the guts of tube amps before so I was a little nervous before. I was bored today and have been following this thread for a couple days. I finally broke out the tools (screwdriver and scissors! Hah!) and did it...

When I got my amp (it traveled almost 3,000 miles), it was making a weird clicking noise. Long story short, it turned out one of the EL84s got a little unseated during shipping. Just check for any loose tubes, wiggle them a little bit to get them into their sockets. Mine clicked when it went...

I called Mesa some time ago, and if I remember correctly, the DC series was made from 1994 to 1999.

Just got her last Tuesday.

I found the culprit. I woke up this morning and wiggled the power tubes. One of them move a wee bit, and I nudged it back into its socket. Bye bye clicking! Thanks for the help guys *distributes pats on backs* I'm such a tube newb :P