Timbre Wolf
Well-known member
I like your moniker, nothing!nothing said:i have 0 experience with tubes so some of this is a bit over my head. i have tri and a 50/50. i was going to go with euro tube for the standard replacement set up. do you think this is a good place to start?
i mainly use the LD2 green and yellow, from time to time i will use the reds. i play in a metal band and this would be the primary sound i am going for. the reason i even have the tri was that i was chasing the metallica black sound but i later found i would need much than the just a tri and a good power amp. TW if you do reply just know i know nothing and i have only had this set for about 2 weeks, but any advice would be much appreciated.
thank you-
nothing
If you're certain you're wanting to go down the tube tweaking path, I'd vote against the JJ set - even though it'll be an improvement to stock tubes. As far as new-production 12AX7s go, I favor the Russian "Tung-Sol" for best clarity. But those still are not as good as "NOS" versions that you could get, with slight use (technically not "new" NOS, but old, test-new), for the same price. So if you'r serious about tube swaps, save your bux for the good old stuff - you'll hear the difference a true Tung-Sol 12AX7 makes (stellar clarity) compared to the best new-production can offer.
As for tube suggestions, I'd still suggest the same options I've already outlined on this Board, with the exception of V2, which I'd recommend a later-breakup 12AX7. Both the (original) '50s Tung-Sol 12AX7 and a '70s Tesla (not JJ) E83CC immediately come to mind for this use. If you can afford to acquire a '50s long-plate Mullard 12AX7 (not the later, short-plate versions), do try it in V4 for your Lead 2 modes: you will be pleased.
- T