TriAxis Tubes and where to get them?

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masque said:
but what would be your top choices be to go into the triaxis and 20/20 from "easy to find" tubes.
I hope I'm answering your question as you wanted. There's no one-stop source, so it will not be easy. If you want to choose more common tubes as subs for the ones I listed, I guess I'd have to see a list of your candidates, and comment on the ones I like the best on your list.

Ebay is a viable source for all the preamp tubes, but only for the patient and well-informed buyer. Ebay is not a great source for "matched" sets of power tubes, unless you're using them for a single-ended amp, which you're not. You've got to be on your toes on eBay, and know the details to look for in identifying the tubes you're buying. Also, carefully read feedback for a seller before bidding (I avoid sellers with "private" feedback). I avoid buying tubes from sellers who don't stand behind their wares, especially if they say they can't test tubes, and are selling "as-is." Knowing the risks, I mention eBay first because no tube seller I know of has all the tubes I mentioned.

Tubemonger.com is the only commercial seller that has Raytheon black-plate/halo-getter 12AX7A for sale. I tried to get Mike Kropotkin, of KCA NOS Tubes, to try to stock them (I even gifted him one to audition), but he hasn't done so yet. Tubemonger doesn't always have them available, but I highly regard this ethical and well-informed seller. Tubemonger's got a tube photo library, that is a real helpful resource.

The Raytheons are often available on eBay, and are sold, as used, from old organs. These are usually labeled by the organ manufacturer, so you'll see "Baldwin," or "Lowrey." Do a Google image search for photos of these tubes, or go to the Tubemonger photos for i.d. Look for yellow print on the organ tubes (not green, those are usually Sylvanias), and the EIA code of "280" (or "P280"), among other details (such as shiny black plates, and a partial mica structure between the upper mica disk and the upper halo getter wire. Note that, even though they're all used, I've never had one go bad or even be weak (out of 20 or so).

KCA NOS tubes has a good selection of 5751. I do like the RCA 3-mica black-plate best, but any black-plate 5751 will be fine. Given the choice, I'd go with the 3-mica version for more microphonics resistance. Don't be afraid to get "ANOS" (= almost new, old stock; tests fine), as they're a real bargain in these, typically long-lasting tubes.

KCA is a fine source for Mullard CV4024/12AT7WA, though there are many other sources for these, some of which are slightly less expensive. My only tip is to look for the less expensive ones, made in the late '70s and early '80s, instead of the more-expensive early '60s ones ("copper getter support").

I don't know who to refer you to for the long-plate Mullards. Any "commercial" source is exorbitantly priced, in my opinion. This is where being an informed eBayer comes in handy. Watch, search, be patient. Look for the etch codes ("f91" or "f92" on the top line, and a second line beginning with "B," followed by "8" or "9"). Probably a less-elusive/less-expensive sub would be the old original Tung-Sol 12AX7.

12BZ7 is not commonly stocked by tube sellers. I have only gotten these from eBay, and one dealer (Jim McShane) who happened to have a few when I asked. They usually go for about $7-$8 each, for the black-plates on eBay, so they're not too bad of a risk. Get extra stock, though, because with their extra long plates comes the higher risk of microphonics.

It does sometimes pay to ask dealers for difficult-to-find tubes, and another dealer who I'll mention here is Doug Preston, at Doug's Tubes. Doug has great tube and amp knowledge, and often has tubes available that are not listed on his web site. Don't be afraid to ask, 'cause at worst, you'll get a friendly reply saying "sorry, not available."

The best source of Tungsram EL84 I've encountered is in Hungary: Zeitmann Tubes. When I first purchased tubes from them, I was worried about sending my Western Union payment to someone in Hungary. But they're very trustworthy, with great communication, and fine tubes. Tubemonger also sells these EL84, but at about twice the price.

Less expensive EL84 that are good are Tesla (not JJ), from KCA NOS tubes, and GE from Angela Instruments. I'll let you search for the web sites. The Tesla are very bright, and the GEs have nice rounded-off highs, so they span the spectrum of sound, for better NOS tubes.

Okay, now, start your search!! Best of luck - it does take dedication, perseverance, and, uh... work. That reminds me, I've got work to do :roll:

Bye!

- Thom
 
wow! thanks for the response and help. I guess I will have to dig in and um....work at finding these tubes as I do want the great tone!!!!!
 
timber wolf let me ask this.....what tube position in the triaxis has the most tonal effect and control on the "Lead 1 Red" mode?
 
masque said:
timber wolf let me ask this.....what tube position in the triaxis has the most tonal effect and control on the "Lead 1 Red" mode?
Not trying to mess with you, but all tubes, except V4, are highly influential in that case. Once you've got the Triaxis dialed in, every position is sensitive. In Lead 1, V1 is the first (input) valve, then V2, then to V3, and out V5. I can hear bold changes when I swap any of those positions.

Some would say that the first input tube (V1, in this case) is most influential, but that's not my experience. V1 will be most sensitive to microphonics in L1Red, but they all play a part in the tone and dynamics. V1 and V2 generally have a greater tonal (frequency accentuation) influence. V3 and V5 play mostly a dynamics role.

- T
 
Timbre Wolf said:
masque said:
timber wolf let me ask this.....what tube position in the triaxis has the most tonal effect and control on the "Lead 1 Red" mode?
Not trying to mess with you, but all tubes, except V4, are highly influential in that case. Once you've got the Triaxis dialed in, every position is sensitive. In Lead 1, V1 is the first (input) valve, then V2, then to V3, and out V5. I can hear bold changes when I swap any of those positions.

Some would say that the first input tube (V1, in this case) is most influential, but that's not my experience. V1 will be most sensitive to microphonics in L1Red, but they all play a part in the tone and dynamics. V1 and V2 generally have a greater tonal (frequency accentuation) influence. V3 and V5 play mostly a dynamics role.

- T

thanks.
 

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