Roadster_08
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jdurso said:
actually PW does sell individual solderless connectors for thier new kit. As i recall they're somewhere abour $5-8 a piece tho. kinda pricey ..
what cables is everyone using??
- Thread starter jdurso
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actually PW does sell individual solderless connectors for thier new kit. As i recall they're somewhere abour $5-8 a piece tho. kinda pricey ..
Roadster_08
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jdurso said:
actually PW does sell individual solderless connectors for thier new kit. As i recall they're somewhere abour $5-8 a piece tho. kinda pricey ..
LavaMan
Active member
MesaDCLP said:
Thanks for the recommendation! It is much appreciated...
Mark
nomad100hd
Well-known member
They are a lot easier to solder if you have one of those stands with the clips on them to hold your stuff. Then you need a good iron and to tin it first so heat transfers quickly. I also always tin the wire before soldering. I don't think i've had a bad solder joint in yrs. The trickiest part is learning how to cut the wire so it lines up right. Repairing cables yourself sure beats driving 60 miles to a guitar center. If can buy enough cable and ends for all the guys in your band and split the cost. The truly obsessed people would solder the wire right to there pedals!
MrMason your right about if their is enough resistance in cable it can act like an antenna. Same with the grid stopper on the input of a tube amp if it's to big there are better ways than using a grid stopper to dump the RF to ground before the first stage. It does sound like building your own cables is the most cost effective option, just not from a kit. Glad i collect the ends from every bad cable i come across.
MrMason your right about if their is enough resistance in cable it can act like an antenna. Same with the grid stopper on the input of a tube amp if it's to big there are better ways than using a grid stopper to dump the RF to ground before the first stage. It does sound like building your own cables is the most cost effective option, just not from a kit. Glad i collect the ends from every bad cable i come across.
scruffydoo
Well-known member
I use Klotz LaGrange (about $2 per metre) for instrument and Sommer cable ($1.20 per metre) http://www.sommercable.com/ for everything else as its a bit cheaper, high quality and bends really nice for short runs. I also use neutrik connectors ($3 a pop, UK of course)and solder them up myself. Its a lot cheaper in the end than buying pre-mades but to be fair it is pretty time consuming if you've a lot to make up. The RG-16 eats connectors.
Just for info I was getting mixed results at first i.e. some cables worked and some were dead even though I know my solderings good and all components are good.
It turns out that on most high end cables they have double shielding that is 2 layers of black sheathing around the core (not including the outer layer). The layer immediately underneath the braided copper is made from a conductive material not just nornal pvc and if it touches or is near the centre core wire it will short giving you a dead cable.
http://www.klotz-ais.com/cgi-bin/quickorder/lshop.cgi?action=showdetail&artnum=GY107_&rubnum=mi.bulk.instrument&wkid=1211379337-6466&ls=e&nocache=
The simple answer is to cut a couple of mm of the sheathing off before soldering leaving the white insulating material intact, having now found the ones previously hurled around my garage in temper I can now confirm they all work perfect.
Just for info I was getting mixed results at first i.e. some cables worked and some were dead even though I know my solderings good and all components are good.
It turns out that on most high end cables they have double shielding that is 2 layers of black sheathing around the core (not including the outer layer). The layer immediately underneath the braided copper is made from a conductive material not just nornal pvc and if it touches or is near the centre core wire it will short giving you a dead cable.
http://www.klotz-ais.com/cgi-bin/quickorder/lshop.cgi?action=showdetail&artnum=GY107_&rubnum=mi.bulk.instrument&wkid=1211379337-6466&ls=e&nocache=
The simple answer is to cut a couple of mm of the sheathing off before soldering leaving the white insulating material intact, having now found the ones previously hurled around my garage in temper I can now confirm they all work perfect.
nomad100hd
Well-known member
scruffydoo you probably saved a few people from headaches with that post. I noticed the magami site mentioned that, but if i was OC and went digging i would not have known either.
Thanks to this thread i think my band is going to buy some bulk cable and use up my stash of cable ends. Buying the cable puts the cost of a cable right around $20 which is around how much you pay for cheap cables.
Thanks to this thread i think my band is going to buy some bulk cable and use up my stash of cable ends. Buying the cable puts the cost of a cable right around $20 which is around how much you pay for cheap cables.
scruffydoo
Well-known member
Those are UK prices though, not sure about US. My only moan about Klotz is its pretty stiff cos of the thick core and all the sheathing, if you jump around a lot it soons turns to crap round your feet Sommer doesn't so might switch. I also like the new neutrik silent connectors which get rid of all the racket when switching guitars.
Your tip about that stand with clips is 100% on the money, prepare for a few tantrums if you don't have one.
Sommer doesn't so might switch. I also like the new neutrik silent connectors which get rid of all the racket when switching guitars.Your tip about that stand with clips is 100% on the money, prepare for a few tantrums if you don't have one.
Monster & Mogami as I've stated before but,
Jodavi Snap Jack Cables look neat. I wonder how the cables are?
http://www.zzounds.com/cat--Jodavi--4110
Jodavi Snap Jack Cables look neat. I wonder how the cables are?
http://www.zzounds.com/cat--Jodavi--4110
jdurso
Well-known member
too many choices... brain is going into overload :shock:
I'll narrow it down to 3 for you
1) George L's with George L's plugs.
2) George L's with non-George L's plugs (G&H or Switchcraft)
3) Mogami 2524 with G&H or Switchcraft plugs
1 - Will be bright sounding and will work best if your rig is going to be set and never meddled with.
2 - Will be bright sounding but the connectors will be cheaper and you can plug / unplug at will and whim. BUT! It will require a good bit of soldering which will lead, for certain, to at least a little bit of cussing and swearing.
3 - Will be darker than the other 2 and will sound fantastic. Soldering also required, but it's a fair bit easier than soldering the George L's.
In my rig - I'd choose #3 without a thought.
Hope I've helped
1) George L's with George L's plugs.
2) George L's with non-George L's plugs (G&H or Switchcraft)
3) Mogami 2524 with G&H or Switchcraft plugs
1 - Will be bright sounding and will work best if your rig is going to be set and never meddled with.
2 - Will be bright sounding but the connectors will be cheaper and you can plug / unplug at will and whim. BUT! It will require a good bit of soldering which will lead, for certain, to at least a little bit of cussing and swearing.
3 - Will be darker than the other 2 and will sound fantastic. Soldering also required, but it's a fair bit easier than soldering the George L's.
In my rig - I'd choose #3 without a thought.
Hope I've helped
jdurso
Well-known member
camsna said:I'll narrow it down to 3 for you
1) George L's with George L's plugs.
2) George L's with non-George L's plugs (G&H or Switchcraft)
3) Mogami 2524 with G&H or Switchcraft plugs
1 - Will be bright sounding and will work best if your rig is going to be set and never meddled with.
2 - Will be bright sounding but the connectors will be cheaper and you can plug / unplug at will and whim. BUT! It will require a good bit of soldering which will lead, for certain, to at least a little bit of cussing and swearing.
3 - Will be darker than the other 2 and will sound fantastic. Soldering also required, but it's a fair bit easier than soldering the George L's.
In my rig - I'd choose #3 without a thought.
Hope I've helped
Nice man. Yeah basically i didn't even consider #2 and was down to #1 and 3. I'm going to this high end Home Audio place tomorrow that apparently stocks mogami cables and all the stuff i need to make my own. I'm decent with a soldering iron (built a fully automated UPS style mailbox in college so learning to solder was a must) and don't mind a little hard work but i'll have to buy a pack of cigs to deal with any frustration :evil: . So i'll see tomorrow if they have what i need and if not i'll just have to order everything online.
Mogami 2524 Cable - $0.73 a foot!
http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=507
Their shipping is cheap, too.
Don't allow the high-end audio place to waste your money. Also! Don't listen to anything they tell you if it's going to cost more money. I trust 'audiophiles' about as much as I trust politicians and Scientologists. Cork sniffing cash wasters...
http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=507
Their shipping is cheap, too.
Don't allow the high-end audio place to waste your money. Also! Don't listen to anything they tell you if it's going to cost more money. I trust 'audiophiles' about as much as I trust politicians and Scientologists. Cork sniffing cash wasters...
Random Hero
Well-known member
Evidence Audio, Lyric HG for instruments, Siren II for speaker cable.
BobVila
Member
So I see a fair few number of people espousing the Fulltone OCD pedals... anyone have any experiences with their cables? The small shop near my house sells 'em, and I was thinking of picking up a couple.
eventide_awakening
Well-known member
camsna said:
hahahaha there is truth in that statement :lol:
http://www.music123.com/Monster-Cab...gle-Instrument-Cable-331665-i1128618.Music123
I have been using them in my pedal board...and I really like em. I got six of them. Thats like 78 dollars for six 8 inch pedal connectors with gold tip - around 4 feet of cable and not customizable. If I knew about George L's kit last year - I would get that kit. But for people who don't want to work on cutting and doing all that extra work,this cable might be good.
I have been using them in my pedal board...and I really like em. I got six of them. Thats like 78 dollars for six 8 inch pedal connectors with gold tip - around 4 feet of cable and not customizable. If I knew about George L's kit last year - I would get that kit. But for people who don't want to work on cutting and doing all that extra work,this cable might be good.
BobVila
Member
camsna said:
Werd... thanks for the info. It's down between picking them up or going to the GC and getting reamed on some no-name stuff 'cause I need a short-term solution. They wanted $35 for a 15', so it won't break the bank. Couldn't hurt to pick up a pair and then look into the ones you all have suggested, i s'pose.
jdurso
Well-known member
BobVila said:
Most GCs are carrying the Mogami cables now which from what i've heard from a bunch of the forumites here, they're awesome cables.
Sustain
Well-known member
jdurso said:
yeah, but GC is charging like 80 dollars for a 25 ft cable. You can get them premade online for as little as around 20 bux. Of course, you cant take the 20 dollar cable to GC and cut the end off and expect a lifetime replacement.....i guess thats why they are 80 bux there.....
If the prices scare you at GC just order them online, there are plenty of good cable makers who will do you up on a custom order for 1/5th the cost of what you may expect to spend at GC.
