thirstypirate
Well-known member
Bicycle said:Is it possible to do this mod on LSC bought on 2007? Have anyone tried it?
I doesn't make a difference if the amp is a 100/50 or 100/50/10. All you're doing is switching the position of the pots.
Bicycle said:Is it possible to do this mod on LSC bought on 2007? Have anyone tried it?
blues57 said:Done it this afternoon and : WOW i love it
by the way, mine is also modded so that i can switch drive on the footswitch and this is a must have.
blues57 said:no this mod was done in a store but i can ask to have some informations (i know that i's pretty easy to do it as the drive mini toggle is near the footswitch output jack)
no new switch on the footswitch they used the "solo" switch. i use the solo external switch port to keep the solo mode
Charles Reeder said:On page 34 of my Lone Star manual (I didn't check page number for LSS or LSC version2) you will find a graph picture of the amp with all of the Part-numbers of the various pots and switches.
I noticed that...
On channel-1 the Gain is part#591739 and the Master is part#591047.
Now look at channel-2: the Gain is part#591047 and the Master is part#591739.
The 2-channels use the identical Gain and Master pots...but reversed!
That is the absolute only difference between the 2-channels. No circuit board mods necessary...all you have to do is swap the Gain pot with the Master pot on channel-2 and it is a perfect clone of channel-1. That's it! Nothing else to do...and it sounds so..so..much better!
Let me tell you; when you add the 'drive' and/or the 'thick/thicker' to channel-2 now it just takes off like a bird and sings! It actually gets more distortion and sustain (if you want it); The bass is not muddied and the notes remain articulate even at high volume and saturation levels! It is everything I had originally hoped it would be.
Making this swap is not at all difficult...just 3 wires on each of the 2 pots on channel-2 . Just unsolder the 2 pots and swap them. You will have to remove the amp chassis from the combo or head cab. Then unscrew the screws that hold on the knobs on the gains and masters on both channels.
Remove the retaining nuts and washers that hold the gain and master pots
on both channels from the faceplate.
Pull the channel-1gain and master pots backwards out of the way. You do not have to remove or unsolder the ones on channel-1; just get them out of the way so that you can 'rock' and pull the gain and master pots for channel-2 out.
3 little gray wires are soldered to each pot. Before I unsoldered them I used a magic-marker to label them to make it quick and easy to remember which post they attached to on the pot. Going left to right 1-dot,2-dots, 3-dots. Simply unsolder them and swap the positions of the gain and master pots on channel-2.
Put everything back together and enjoy the amp the way it always should have sounded (in my opinion)!
The only thing I ask of any of you is that if you do not feel qualified to do this swap...(the insides of amplifiers can be fatally dangerous to the careless)...then please...please...please... take it to a tech to have the swap done.
Charles Reeder said:Hey:
Regarding making the 'Drive' foot-switchable:
It would be pretty easy to run some shielded wires from the mini-toggle switch to one of the other jacks on the back of the Lonestar (the 'hidden' reverb jack... maybe?)...and then use a single button foot-switch to control it.
I haven't ever looked inside the LS footswitch...perhaps there is room to add another switch 'button' and another 1/4-inch jack...and keep everything all in one place...on the original Lonestar foot-switch.
The reason I haven't pursued this...is because with this sort of mod...the annoying 'thump' that is heard when the drive is engaged would still be there. If the drive were only to be engaged or disengaged between songs rather than as a solo-boost during a song...then I suppose the 'thump' would be acceptable.
If someone would come up with the electronic solution to getting rid of the 'thump' and post it; then I think this would then be a tremendously usable 'mod'.
If not...I would contact a 'professional'...if he could guarantee to do the mod (including the elimination of the 'thump') then I would do it...provided his charge were reasonable.
Charles
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