My first experience with the Mark V90 started back in 2012. This was my third Mesa amp I ever purchased, and I had hoped it to be the pinnacle of excellence as the Mark III and Mark IVb were in some respects. I have owned the Mark III for 23 years before selling it to a friend. It was a great performer in all respects. The difficulty with that amp in general was dialing it in as it was complex to go from lead to clean or crunch and have a good sound for all three channels. Leave it in the lead channel set and forget. I bought it new in 1989 and it had a blue stripe on it. Not green. This was my first regret as I sold it but should have held onto it. My second Mesa was the Mark IVb which was much easier to dial in due to the channel separation of sorts. I enjoyed that amp for 12 years without any issues. Then I decided to get another Mark amp, the Mark V90. Much different than the other two. At the time I bought it, the Mark III had the longest production run of 11 years. Now the Mark V90 has surpassed that production run which is now at 14 years, and they are still in production today. Sure, the Mark VII came out in March of 2023. I finally got mine in July of this year. Also bought the JP2C in 2016. The Mark III and Mark IVb were sold off, not to support any purchases of the next generation. I do regret letting them go and probably would not have done so if they were both head units instead of combo amps. Why am I creating this post? Well to describe my experience with the Mark V90 since I have owned it. My Mark V90 was made in 2012 after the change to the original release of 2009 so it does have the CH3 tone stack changes that occurred in 2010. The actual board change may have occurred at the end of the 2009 year, so it was copywritten in 2009.
For those of you who are familiar with the Mark V90, it may be obvious that there have been changes to mine as a result of component failure. Early on, I had issues with the amp continually red plating the power tubes. Mostly in the Class A sockets. I was lucky to get 2 hours of use before they failed. It was just my luck of the draw I suppose. I should have sent this to Petaluma for repair while it was still under warranty after the screen resistors blew out. Unfortunately, I did not and took it upon myself to void the warranty to replace the screen resistors with something that would but burn up and catch fire like the carbon composition resistors did. It took over 2 years of red plating tubes before the screen resistors burned out. In my trials in tribulations of owning the Mark V90, I did come across two power tubes that would survive the torment of incorrect bias: SED =C= 6L6GC and the Tung Sol 7581. The Stock STR440 would not run for very long before going cherry on me. I eventually gave up on the Mark V90 as I got two other amps to replace it. Royal Atlantic RA100 and the Roadster. I still had the Mark IVb at that time. Since day one, I had some other issues with the Mark V90. It was very brittle sounding in most respects. Ch1 tweed was an ice pick, Ch2 edge was an ice pick and most of Ch3 was an ice pick (MKIV and Extreme). The only work around for CH3 was to dial out the presence and treble and reduce the gain down to about 9am. The other issue which probably some of you have experienced is the terrible tone suck you get with the FX loop. I have searched for a few years to find a solution or something that would actually work in the FX loop of the Mark V. To date, only one brand comes to mind that I am still using, Strymon. Just about all of the Fx pedals that worked with the Mark III and Mark IVb including the rack units I had did not work with the Mark V90. More of a buffer overload and poor performance mostly due to the input buffer tolerance to line level signals but mostly because of the mismatch or high output impedance of the SEND. The FX recovery was just fine. Just for Smiles and Grins, I decided to try slaving the Mark V90 from the SEND jack into the Roaster return. That confirmed my thoughts that the ice pick characteristics were that of the preamp and not the power amp section. Sure, I have discovered that the Mark V90 does respond quite well in tone shaping with different preamp tubes of the same family 12AX7 from short plate to long plate, Mullard to EH, Tung Sol, Chinese, NOS JAN tubes and so on. What may have fixed some of the ice pick sounds resulted in a boxy tone I did not care for. The Mark V90 was placed aside for a rainy day.
Along Came the APEMAN and a novel trick. Now his goal was a means to address some of the FX loop issues if I recall correctly. As a result of this a different characteristic emerged and resulted in the Saturation Mod thread. I was interested in this trick as it may be a fix for my Mark V woes. It had merits. At the time the JAN/Phillips 12AT7 was quite affordable and I had some on hand as I had started tube rolling the Royal Atlantic and it uses a 12AT7 for the FX loop. I gave it a shot and it was interesting. The Mark V schematic can be found online but it is not complete. It is also the first release of the 2009 version. Most of it is accurate for the bulk of the preamp and such but with a few errors. After review of the schematic, and the aid of a few online triode gain calculators I can see the change in gain response across the frequency band. It seemed that the V4B triode circuit used to accentuate the asymmetrical clipping circuit had the tendency to push the upper boundaries of the higher frequency with no limits when using the 12AX7 model in the calculator. When you change it to the 12AT7 you get some good high frequency roll off. I assumed this would cut back on the shot noise effect of odd order harmonics, in other words cut back on the ice pick. It did. Note that the amp will need to have all Mesa 12AX7 (JJ ECC83) tubes installed to take any effect of the JAN/Phillips 12AT7 in V4. To be honest, I am not sure what became of the thread. APEMAN sort of left and most of his posts were deleted. There was some good information to be found from his comments as well as other participants in that thread. I admit, I did go overboard and began making some modifications to the circuits, Removal of C39 and a few others. That may have helped some, but it did not take long before I lost interest in the Mark V90 and basically left the forums for a few years. During that time, I had restored some of the mods but to me it was worth the experiment as I learned from this. C39 was painstakingly difficult to reinstall. I was able to manage though. However, I did not go back to the 120pF cap. Instead, I used a 47pF cap to replace it. After doing that the JAN/Phillips 12AT7 was no longer required in the V4 position. I did leave one mod in the mix of things, it was the 10K resistor to couple the two caps on the GEQ circuit used on the output circuit. These two caps were switched by a relay, one for the IIC+ mode and the other for all other modes. I did not see any reason to remove it. Just for reference, it is not necessary to do any of the hard mods that were discussed in the Saturation Mod thread. If I messed up my Mark V90 in the process, I did not care. I did report what I though worked and excluded some of the other changes I tried. I would recommend only doing the safe mods such as preamp tube rolling as that does not require removal of the amp chassis or digging into a circuit board that could have high voltage stored within its large capacitors. If you ever disconnect any of the ribbon cables, please do ensure that you get them installed correctly. Failure to do so may result in something not working or failure of a JFET or two. That had happened to someone who tried the C39 removal mod, you need to disconnect a few ribbon cables for access, and they forgot to reconnect them when they powered up the amp. Just play it safe and stick with the preamp tube changes. No need to do any mods unless you feel it is absolutely necessary. Get a certified tech to look the amp over first as your issue with the amp could be something else. Hard mods are not worth the effort, and they will void your warranty if you still have one.
Then came along the Mark VII that brought back some interest in the Mark V90. How do they compare? There are some similarities and I have already posted such and no point in repeating here. I have written enough already.
This is just a starting point as I have more to share on my endeavors.
There is more to be said about preamp tube rolling and power tube selection. This will follow this post as I tend to be wordy. Sorry for that.
For those of you who are familiar with the Mark V90, it may be obvious that there have been changes to mine as a result of component failure. Early on, I had issues with the amp continually red plating the power tubes. Mostly in the Class A sockets. I was lucky to get 2 hours of use before they failed. It was just my luck of the draw I suppose. I should have sent this to Petaluma for repair while it was still under warranty after the screen resistors blew out. Unfortunately, I did not and took it upon myself to void the warranty to replace the screen resistors with something that would but burn up and catch fire like the carbon composition resistors did. It took over 2 years of red plating tubes before the screen resistors burned out. In my trials in tribulations of owning the Mark V90, I did come across two power tubes that would survive the torment of incorrect bias: SED =C= 6L6GC and the Tung Sol 7581. The Stock STR440 would not run for very long before going cherry on me. I eventually gave up on the Mark V90 as I got two other amps to replace it. Royal Atlantic RA100 and the Roadster. I still had the Mark IVb at that time. Since day one, I had some other issues with the Mark V90. It was very brittle sounding in most respects. Ch1 tweed was an ice pick, Ch2 edge was an ice pick and most of Ch3 was an ice pick (MKIV and Extreme). The only work around for CH3 was to dial out the presence and treble and reduce the gain down to about 9am. The other issue which probably some of you have experienced is the terrible tone suck you get with the FX loop. I have searched for a few years to find a solution or something that would actually work in the FX loop of the Mark V. To date, only one brand comes to mind that I am still using, Strymon. Just about all of the Fx pedals that worked with the Mark III and Mark IVb including the rack units I had did not work with the Mark V90. More of a buffer overload and poor performance mostly due to the input buffer tolerance to line level signals but mostly because of the mismatch or high output impedance of the SEND. The FX recovery was just fine. Just for Smiles and Grins, I decided to try slaving the Mark V90 from the SEND jack into the Roaster return. That confirmed my thoughts that the ice pick characteristics were that of the preamp and not the power amp section. Sure, I have discovered that the Mark V90 does respond quite well in tone shaping with different preamp tubes of the same family 12AX7 from short plate to long plate, Mullard to EH, Tung Sol, Chinese, NOS JAN tubes and so on. What may have fixed some of the ice pick sounds resulted in a boxy tone I did not care for. The Mark V90 was placed aside for a rainy day.
Along Came the APEMAN and a novel trick. Now his goal was a means to address some of the FX loop issues if I recall correctly. As a result of this a different characteristic emerged and resulted in the Saturation Mod thread. I was interested in this trick as it may be a fix for my Mark V woes. It had merits. At the time the JAN/Phillips 12AT7 was quite affordable and I had some on hand as I had started tube rolling the Royal Atlantic and it uses a 12AT7 for the FX loop. I gave it a shot and it was interesting. The Mark V schematic can be found online but it is not complete. It is also the first release of the 2009 version. Most of it is accurate for the bulk of the preamp and such but with a few errors. After review of the schematic, and the aid of a few online triode gain calculators I can see the change in gain response across the frequency band. It seemed that the V4B triode circuit used to accentuate the asymmetrical clipping circuit had the tendency to push the upper boundaries of the higher frequency with no limits when using the 12AX7 model in the calculator. When you change it to the 12AT7 you get some good high frequency roll off. I assumed this would cut back on the shot noise effect of odd order harmonics, in other words cut back on the ice pick. It did. Note that the amp will need to have all Mesa 12AX7 (JJ ECC83) tubes installed to take any effect of the JAN/Phillips 12AT7 in V4. To be honest, I am not sure what became of the thread. APEMAN sort of left and most of his posts were deleted. There was some good information to be found from his comments as well as other participants in that thread. I admit, I did go overboard and began making some modifications to the circuits, Removal of C39 and a few others. That may have helped some, but it did not take long before I lost interest in the Mark V90 and basically left the forums for a few years. During that time, I had restored some of the mods but to me it was worth the experiment as I learned from this. C39 was painstakingly difficult to reinstall. I was able to manage though. However, I did not go back to the 120pF cap. Instead, I used a 47pF cap to replace it. After doing that the JAN/Phillips 12AT7 was no longer required in the V4 position. I did leave one mod in the mix of things, it was the 10K resistor to couple the two caps on the GEQ circuit used on the output circuit. These two caps were switched by a relay, one for the IIC+ mode and the other for all other modes. I did not see any reason to remove it. Just for reference, it is not necessary to do any of the hard mods that were discussed in the Saturation Mod thread. If I messed up my Mark V90 in the process, I did not care. I did report what I though worked and excluded some of the other changes I tried. I would recommend only doing the safe mods such as preamp tube rolling as that does not require removal of the amp chassis or digging into a circuit board that could have high voltage stored within its large capacitors. If you ever disconnect any of the ribbon cables, please do ensure that you get them installed correctly. Failure to do so may result in something not working or failure of a JFET or two. That had happened to someone who tried the C39 removal mod, you need to disconnect a few ribbon cables for access, and they forgot to reconnect them when they powered up the amp. Just play it safe and stick with the preamp tube changes. No need to do any mods unless you feel it is absolutely necessary. Get a certified tech to look the amp over first as your issue with the amp could be something else. Hard mods are not worth the effort, and they will void your warranty if you still have one.
Then came along the Mark VII that brought back some interest in the Mark V90. How do they compare? There are some similarities and I have already posted such and no point in repeating here. I have written enough already.
This is just a starting point as I have more to share on my endeavors.
There is more to be said about preamp tube rolling and power tube selection. This will follow this post as I tend to be wordy. Sorry for that.