Yeah, I saw that one last night as I was checking around - would you be able to "assign" each button as, say, R1, R2 & Lead, so that you could go directly from R1 to Lead by stepping on the "Up" button once and then back to R2 by stepping on "Active"? I wouldn't want to have to set it up as patches and then have to press twice to go from R1 to Lead...
The Mark IV thread....!!
- Thread starter Shep
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oggiedoggy
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Hi. I'm new to these boards (because I just got a mark IV 
Anyways, I have some questions.
My reverb seems weak. It works, but seems weak. Is it possible that something is loose partly that would still allow reverb to work, just with lesser capability?
This is my first tube amp, so I don't know what I can touch w/o electricuting/burning myself. What can I reach in and touch on the inside?
I have the standard combo version.....b? I have a reverb footswitch jack so that makes it b right?
Anyways, I have some questions.
My reverb seems weak. It works, but seems weak. Is it possible that something is loose partly that would still allow reverb to work, just with lesser capability?
This is my first tube amp, so I don't know what I can touch w/o electricuting/burning myself. What can I reach in and touch on the inside?
I have the standard combo version.....b? I have a reverb footswitch jack so that makes it b right?
Shep
Well-known member
try replacing the preamp tubes and clean all the connections leads going from you amp to your reverb tank...If that doesn't fix it Take it to a tech.
EirikBrandal
Well-known member
my triode hums alot. sounds sweet and stuff, but that humming doesn't come from the speakers, it comes from the head itself.
And the amp is much tighter when I use another amp's power amp. Hope the mark IV's power amp is broken.
And the amp is much tighter when I use another amp's power amp. Hope the mark IV's power amp is broken.
Shep
Well-known member
put some new power tubes dude..it will tighten everything up but i have no idea what that hum would be..
Tom
Tom
Octavarius
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EirikBrandal said:
Don't know. Fan perhaps?
You hope the power section is broken? Are you the guy who only had one EL34 in it and the rest 6L6's? Perhaps that's the reason to the bad feel and humming, ey? I'd put in some new power tubes. In their correct placements in either EL34-6L6-6L6-EL34 OR 6L6-6L6-6L6-6L6. :wink:
EirikBrandal
Well-known member
Haha.
Just to make it clear, I swapped the El34 some weeks ago, and it can't be the fan, or I have no idea why it suddenly should get this boost in volume whenever I swich to triode.
Yeah, I hope it's something wrong, cause then it can be fixed. If not, it suck.
Just to make it clear, I swapped the El34 some weeks ago, and it can't be the fan, or I have no idea why it suddenly should get this boost in volume whenever I swich to triode.
Yeah, I hope it's something wrong, cause then it can be fixed. If not, it suck.
Octavarius
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EirikBrandal said:
Of course there's something wrong! Those things you mention are at least not normal. Take it to a tech and get it fixed. If not, get it replaced under warranty.
trem said:
To circle back on this, I have the Randall midi controller working with the CFX-4 (Mario designed the RF4 for Randall) and it's working great. Smaller than the mkiv's footswitch and I use a midi connector from my PedalSnake to go back to the CFX-4 - very clean.
If you want smaller, you can get randall's RF-3...
Dave
trem said:
To circle back on this, I have the Randall midi controller working with the CFX-4 (Mario designed the RF4 for Randall) and it's working great. Smaller than the mkiv's footswitch and I use a midi connector from my PedalSnake to go back to the CFX-4 - very clean.
If you want smaller, you can get randall's RF-3...
Dave
Hey guys just need a few opinions:
My question, I might snag a GEQ pedal (MXR 10 band) for cheap now but I dont own a Mesa yet. I realize it would be useful if I got a rec but if I get a mark IV would it be as useful? Would having it in the FX loop still affect a different portion of signal that the slider EQ on the amp doesnt? IN other words is it still useful like the amp slider eq affects before the preamp and a pedal in the FX loop would be post pre amp or whatever. if that made sense.
My question, I might snag a GEQ pedal (MXR 10 band) for cheap now but I dont own a Mesa yet. I realize it would be useful if I got a rec but if I get a mark IV would it be as useful? Would having it in the FX loop still affect a different portion of signal that the slider EQ on the amp doesnt? IN other words is it still useful like the amp slider eq affects before the preamp and a pedal in the FX loop would be post pre amp or whatever. if that made sense.
EirikBrandal
Well-known member
what?
kidding.. I think.
If you mean it like the way I think:
On a mark IV you can disable the 5 band EQ after the preamp and use the 10 band MXR EQ in the loop instead.
kidding.. I think.
If you mean it like the way I think:
On a mark IV you can disable the 5 band EQ after the preamp and use the 10 band MXR EQ in the loop instead.
EirikBrandal
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I think it's more pain than gain to have both EQ's on simultaniously, at least in my opinion and experience
Fireflyparadise
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Looking at buying a Mark IV head and I found one on Craigslist.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/msg/781679921.html
He is selling the head for $800 dollars, which seems extremely (skeptically) cheap for the combo. And he says it has 4 channels, which mark IV's only have 3... Other than that, I do have some questions about the mark IV in general.
Is there a tonal difference between getting a short body and a wide body? I'm not really concerned about the combo part of the amp, but if I were to plug in something like a 2x12 or 4x12 recto into the amp, would there be a difference between short and wide?
What is the deal with the different faceplates on the IV's? I've seen faceplates that just say "Boogie" and some that say "MESA/BOOGIE". Does this denote if they are "A" or "B"? In all the pictures I have seen of the different types of amp, there doesn't really seem to be any correlation between the faceplate and any other feature of the amp.
I'm only really interested in the faceplate because I'm trying to dial in something similar to the tone of Chevelle. From a fan website I have gathered that pete uses 2 mark IV medium heads and I don't know if they are A or B. If anyone does know if they are A or B, I'd really appreciate knowing.
I noticed that both of his amps have the "MESA/BOOGIE" faceplate, which I have seen on other heads on ebay and such. But I'm still not really understanding.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/msg/781679921.html
He is selling the head for $800 dollars, which seems extremely (skeptically) cheap for the combo. And he says it has 4 channels, which mark IV's only have 3... Other than that, I do have some questions about the mark IV in general.
Is there a tonal difference between getting a short body and a wide body? I'm not really concerned about the combo part of the amp, but if I were to plug in something like a 2x12 or 4x12 recto into the amp, would there be a difference between short and wide?
What is the deal with the different faceplates on the IV's? I've seen faceplates that just say "Boogie" and some that say "MESA/BOOGIE". Does this denote if they are "A" or "B"? In all the pictures I have seen of the different types of amp, there doesn't really seem to be any correlation between the faceplate and any other feature of the amp.
I'm only really interested in the faceplate because I'm trying to dial in something similar to the tone of Chevelle. From a fan website I have gathered that pete uses 2 mark IV medium heads and I don't know if they are A or B. If anyone does know if they are A or B, I'd really appreciate knowing.
I noticed that both of his amps have the "MESA/BOOGIE" faceplate, which I have seen on other heads on ebay and such. But I'm still not really understanding.
MarkofXlnts
Well-known member
The Mark IV is a three channel amp, but it can be used with the GEQ to give you several different sounds if you footswitch between them. The widebody cab will probably sound a little more loose or airy, while the shorter cab will likely sound more focused. I do not own a widebody cab at this time, but I had one in the past and was very pleased with it (wish I still had it). As far as the amp itself goes, there should be no difference in sound between a short chassis or a long chassis if all things are equal. The cabinet does make a difference. I prefer short chassis models because they are easy to move around and store.
I will pass on the A versus B version question, I know you can look at the back of the amp to determine which version you have, but others will need to give more specific detail. As far as the faceplates go, any faceplate can be applied to a Boogie amp. I have seen Mark IV's with each type of faceplate (Boogie, Mesa/Boogie, Mesa Engineering). I believe the key to determining which version you have is the date of manufacture and the back of the chassis, not the faceplate. Although I have noticed that early Mark IV's that have the Mesa/Boogie faceplate have the older style square silkscreened logo. Eight hundred dollars does seem to be very cheap, if the amp is in good condition I would say it is a good deal. However, be careful and do your research.
I will pass on the A versus B version question, I know you can look at the back of the amp to determine which version you have, but others will need to give more specific detail. As far as the faceplates go, any faceplate can be applied to a Boogie amp. I have seen Mark IV's with each type of faceplate (Boogie, Mesa/Boogie, Mesa Engineering). I believe the key to determining which version you have is the date of manufacture and the back of the chassis, not the faceplate. Although I have noticed that early Mark IV's that have the Mesa/Boogie faceplate have the older style square silkscreened logo. Eight hundred dollars does seem to be very cheap, if the amp is in good condition I would say it is a good deal. However, be careful and do your research.
EirikBrandal
Well-known member
I think that when the faceplate is saying "mesa/boogie," it's the rack version. At least, I have only seen rack versions with this faceplate
Xqzdust
Well-known member
MarkofXlnts is correct. It is easiest to i.d. A vs. B from the back panel. The most visible is the configuration of the FX loop inputs. I can't remember which is A and which is B. I think one is sort a square config. Sorry, I know it's tedious but you just have read through the pages of this post to find the answer. That said, most people who have owned both types agree that there is little difference in the sound of an A vs. B. That amp looks good and the case is a real plus for a hardwood amp. $800 is a steal if the amp has no issues!
There are several ways to spot the difference between the A and B version of the Mark IV.
The A have a straight lower edge to the front panel so the "Mark IV" logo beneath the standby switch is set lower, closer to the lower edge:
The B has a rounded low edge to the front panel, so the "Mark IV" logo is set closer to the Standby switch and the knobs are closer to the edge:
The A has two effects loops, a normal and a switchable. And the back will look like this:
The B has only one loop and the satellite send so the loop will look like this (this is a wide body combo. That´s why some of the switches are missing on the back. They are on the front instead):
Other things to look for: the A version uses a 12AT7 preamp tube for reverb. The B uses 12AX7.
The B version has a jack for reverb on/off switching on the back.
Soundwise, the B is a little darker and slightly smoother in the lead mode. It seems to have a little more gain (or at least more compression) to it aswell. Rhy 2 on the B has slightly more gain aswell. Rhy seems about the same.
But as others have said, the differences are very small. Only noticable when comparing them side by side. I´ve owned two different A´s and now I have a B. I couldn´t tell you which version I prefer. Both sound like the Mark IV and are great amps!
The A have a straight lower edge to the front panel so the "Mark IV" logo beneath the standby switch is set lower, closer to the lower edge:
The B has a rounded low edge to the front panel, so the "Mark IV" logo is set closer to the Standby switch and the knobs are closer to the edge:
The A has two effects loops, a normal and a switchable. And the back will look like this:
The B has only one loop and the satellite send so the loop will look like this (this is a wide body combo. That´s why some of the switches are missing on the back. They are on the front instead):
Other things to look for: the A version uses a 12AT7 preamp tube for reverb. The B uses 12AX7.
The B version has a jack for reverb on/off switching on the back.
Soundwise, the B is a little darker and slightly smoother in the lead mode. It seems to have a little more gain (or at least more compression) to it aswell. Rhy 2 on the B has slightly more gain aswell. Rhy seems about the same.
But as others have said, the differences are very small. Only noticable when comparing them side by side. I´ve owned two different A´s and now I have a B. I couldn´t tell you which version I prefer. Both sound like the Mark IV and are great amps!
