I recently purchased a used Mark III. With brief research, I knew to get the EQ, but the blue stripe combo that I ended up getting is non-simulclass. Am I really missing out on the tones of this amp without the Simulclass???
Thanks.
Thanks.
Question about simulclass...
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zebpedersen
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Is it a super 60 or a 100w model without Simulclass? The super 60, obviously, distorts the poweramp at lower volume levels, which can have it's advantages over the massive headroom that Simul-class (or indeed any 4-output tube combination) permits you. However if you like playing clean, then the Simul/100w would be more useful. Even so, 60 Boogie-watts are more than enough to crush pretty much anything else.
Allow me: A blue stripe in Simul-Class is 75 watts total, a bit more power than a 60 watter, but one must remember that the Class A section (the outer pair), clips at 12-15 watts, so there's not that much more headroom.
Unfortunately, there ain't no such animal as a 60/100 Simul-Class, or Simul/100, etc.
You can have a 60/100, or a 60, or a 75/15 Simul/Class. Green stripes are 85/25 watts.
Confusion comes because long Mark heads have the Simul-Class switch on the front panel, and this switch is often, if not always, labeled "Full/Half Power". So it's common to believe that a Simul-Class amp can also be 60/100 watts. But no. I blame Mesa.
Then there's the Colosseum, but that's another story altogether.
Unfortunately, there ain't no such animal as a 60/100 Simul-Class, or Simul/100, etc.
You can have a 60/100, or a 60, or a 75/15 Simul/Class. Green stripes are 85/25 watts.
Confusion comes because long Mark heads have the Simul-Class switch on the front panel, and this switch is often, if not always, labeled "Full/Half Power". So it's common to believe that a Simul-Class amp can also be 60/100 watts. But no. I blame Mesa.
Then there's the Colosseum, but that's another story altogether.
mesaboogie6L6
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I am the original owner of a Mark III blue stripe Coliseum, Born 10-90 #27049 (series 300) (180 watts 6x6L6) (150 watts 4x6L6 2xEL34 - simul) The simul is ok, it does give more versatility and is very flexible, I like the low end of the 6L6, not a big fan of the EL34, even tried KT77- not too bad, still sounded too much like a Marshall yuck!
I play loud metal so the 6L6 works fantastic!!
mjberz, having the simulclass might have given you more of a different tone option, depending on your style. I rarely use it, it was only a $25 performance option. No big deal really.
Never ever heard of a super 60.
I play loud metal so the 6L6 works fantastic!!
mjberz, having the simulclass might have given you more of a different tone option, depending on your style. I rarely use it, it was only a $25 performance option. No big deal really.
Never ever heard of a super 60.
Thank you for your replies. The amp is the 60 Watt combo. I guess doubt grew into my head after reading the Mesa book that came with the amp...mentioning that everyone loves the Simulclass feature.
Still trying to dial in all of the tones...
Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Still trying to dial in all of the tones...
Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Here's a settings database:mjberz said:
http://www.grailtone.com/tone-settings/tone-settings.html
To get there from Main Menu:
Board index » General Forum Information » Boogie Board News & Announcements
A good place to start is:
Vol 1 : 7
Treble : 7
Bass : 2
Mids : 5
Master : 2 - 3
Lead Drive : 5
Lead Master : 2 - 3
Presence : to taste
Forget any idea that a "neutral" setting is all knobs on 5 and go from there.
The Treble control is the strongest because it's first in line. As a matter of fact, if the Treble is at zero, you get no sound at all. If you run the Treble at 5, the Bass and Mids become stronger and this where the dreaded "flub" starts to rear it's ugly head. Too much Bass, especially when distorted or overdriven, results in a "flubby", "tubby" or indistinct, woofy sound. Use the Graphic to dial back in Bass. It's post-preamp, so it will stay tight.
I've been following the suggested settings in the Mesa guide...I have learned to keep the bass down.
A question I have is equalizing the volume levels between the 3 channels. Rhythm 1 seems to have alot less volume compared to R2 and lead. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Also what do you guys normally set your Presence to?
A question I have is equalizing the volume levels between the 3 channels. Rhythm 1 seems to have alot less volume compared to R2 and lead. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Also what do you guys normally set your Presence to?
Whoopysnorp
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mjberz said:
The channel volume balance is kind of a problem on the Mark IIIs, depending on how you set it up. With how I run mine, I have a huge volume drop going from R1 or Lead to R2. There is a pretty easy mod you can do to give R2 its own master volume, but I haven't done it to mine yet.
As I understand it, Mesa designed the fixed volume of R2 so that it would be roughly at the right level to live with R1 when you run the volume control on 6 or 7.
I run my presence very low on this amp: around 2 or 3. I have a blue stripe, which is known for being one of the brighter stripes. I recently read about another mod here that involves inserting a capacitor to smooth that out, but so far I have done zero modding of my Mark III.
Vigo1999
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MrMarkIII said:
Ha, funny. those are exactly my settings 8) except that i run the lead drive a lil higher, on 7-8.
usually i run my presence on 3-5, depending on the room.
Vigo1999
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mjberz said:
Use your volume knob
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