JOEY B. said:
Someone has added a resistor to the outer pair of tube sockets at pin #5. My guess is that it would make the outer pair of tubes run cooler. The bias is pretty hot for 6L6's in the export versions. With regard to running EL-34's in the outer sockets, pins 1 and 8 need to be connected for best results. The problem is that someone has robbed all the #1 pins from the sockets. This is a common practice to use them to repair other broken pins that are needed for 6L6 use.
The cascading gain circuit is going to require you to run the Volume 1 setting at 7-8 at the very least to provide the Lead channel enough signal to sound its best. The EQ toggle switch may very well have a hidden "middle" position that is EQ AUTO, meaning it will only be active in the lead channel. This will allow you to use the graphic to shape your lead channel and keep the cleans thick and full (I really can't stand a wimpy, limp d#*K clean tone).
The extra RCA jack under the chassis has me curious, but I have seen other anomolies from this time period at Boogie.
If you ever get tired of this ol' girl, just let me know. :wink: I'm sorry about that last second bid, BTW. :lol: :mrgreen:
Very good assessment JB !!!
The bias has to appear hotter on the export because the plate voltage is 25-30V less. In the end with tube pulling a load the bias is exactly near the 105 specs,
but adjusted for the lower Export voltage. To fix the outer sockets to run EL-34's you can use pin 6 from the inner sockets. The amps from June-August 1984
all seem to have bad socket clamps and wiggle so bad that the pins snap, mainly on 2 and 7 for some reason. The best fix is to flood the pins with solder to keep
them from flexing. The extra RCA jack for the reverb is a replacement for the original one under the board. The person who repaired it probably did not know about
the grounding issue and ran a new jack. The original jacks input is on the V3A pin 2. The trace goes under the .01 orange drop and you will see the solder tab from
the jacks is connected via a hole drilled through the board. It's impossible to fix without removing the preamp. The 1 wire mod is the Boogie repair, so I don't think this was
done by Mike B. The 10K resistors over the 220K's is a little goofy just to get 210K. I would remove the 10K's because the 220K not only sees the negative bias voltage,
but the preamp signal from the PI. The C+ had four different face plates depending on the chassis length and EQ option. This amp, like all EQ optioned amps has an EQ
auto function. This one is in the middle position.