So tonight, while at band practice, guess which amp blew...

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mightywarlock

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blew an amp tonight at band practice.

look at my gear.

can you guess which one?

take a sharp look.

and i still havent gotten the warranty transferred over from the original owner yet.

i am screwed at the moment...

once this gets fixed, i might just sell it. i gig every week, and cant have an amp that will die during a gig...

during a song tonight it just went out...not a fuse, just got quiet, and i could still hear everything, just super low. tubes still lit.

f*in tube amps.
 
sorry to hear about the Ace... if it got really quiet I would look into trying to replace a preamp tube.

sucks that a porsche can be taken down by a flat tire the same way an amp can be taken out by a faulty tube... don't panic just yet.

let us know what happens, I wouldn't do anything too rash like sell it over a bad tube just yet..
 
mightywarlock said:
blew an amp tonight at band practice.

look at my gear.

can you guess which one?

take a sharp look.

and i still havent gotten the warranty transferred over from the original owner yet.

i am screwed at the moment...

once this gets fixed, i might just sell it. i gig every week, and cant have an amp that will die during a gig...

during a song tonight it just went out...not a fuse, just got quiet, and i could still hear everything, just super low. tubes still lit.

f*in tube amps.

Ugh, this is why I used a Peavey LA 400 for 10 years of playing clubs. Even after the drummer knocked it off the top of another amp AND off the stage and it landed on it's head while still on, it kept on going!! :D :D :D Now I take a tube amp and a Peavey Backstage 50 with a Scorpion in it. If it all goes to hell I can plug in that Peavey and just mic it. Always seemed better than standing silently in front of a super cool expensive amp to me! :D
 
i pulled all tubes (except for 5u4gb...dont think i have any more replacements for that one), and swapped the el34's, and tested every 12ax7 including the spa7, and the tubes dont seem to be the issue.

must be something on the board.

or transformer??

fuse not blown.
 
mightywarlock said:
i pulled all tubes (except for 5u4gb...dont think i have any more replacements for that one), and swapped the el34's, and tested every 12ax7 including the spa7, and the tubes dont seem to be the issue.

must be something on the board.

or transformer??

fuse not blown.

You replaced V1 and V2 w/ new 12AX7's?

I wouldn't rule out the rectifier tube either, check that one as well.
 
That sucks dude.

Don't give up on the amp though sh** happens sometimes. Could be the recto tube. And solid state amps can be just as bad if not worse. Usually when a SS amp has a problem it's best to throw it in the trash.

I'm sure you'll be rocking again in no time.
 
Such is the price for tone. I had an old crate head that had fallen off the top of the stack- well technically I had a short guitar cable, jumped around too much and down came the giant..... Long story short, even while falling and after the top cab landed on top of the head and the bot cab sat there by itself, everything was still running fine, and for many, many gigs after that. This is why they make gear like that though, for the drunken fun that isn't the place for expensive equipment to get smashed.

Definitely check the rectifier tube.
 
... also happened to me once that a stiletto fuse gone to heaven without any reason.

does not help to point out that the ACE is extremly reliable normally ...

take a look inside, are the grids (black resistor types under the tube sockets) still ok?

from your description i would also say its a tube challenge

good luck though!
 
So which amp was it? That helps. ;) Sounds like a tube to me. If the tubes are real old it is possible to blow a resister when the tube shorts. Hopefully in your case just a tube.
 
My Peavy JSX combo did that a lot. I was blaming the soundman for turing me down for the last song but then at our last gig it just stopped. It got really quiet. They never did actually figure it until I mentioned that it could be a short in the fx loop and then they fixed it. Plus the reverb stoped working! I sold the amp back to the store and got the roadster and conveted my old crate 212 combo into a head, now I stack everything and have a back-up just in case. Can you de-activate the loop to see if its something in there? Just go in direct to the amp with hard bypass.
 
rabies said:
mightywarlock said:
i pulled all tubes (except for 5u4gb...dont think i have any more replacements for that one), and swapped the el34's, and tested every 12ax7 including the spa7, and the tubes dont seem to be the issue.

must be something on the board.

or transformer??

fuse not blown.

pull the 5U4GB as well and set the amp in silicon diode. Hollywood told me once that if you have a bad recto tube and DON'T pull it and set it to silicon diode, the problem won't be fixed. it's still active in the circuit i guess...

I'm dying to know if this is a tube issue or the amp ate sh!t like mine.

BTW, what were your settings when it died like that? (esp. the gain, master, output)

The newer designs use the silicon diodes after the tube rectifiers.
Basically, even though you have rectifier tubes on there are always silicon diodes in the power supply before the tube. It's really not rectifing anything, but lowering the voltage. The old Recto designs were straight diodes or stright rectifier tubes, now it's a hybrid so if a bad rectifier tube is in the way it may be the culprit.
 
i will have to pull the rectifier tube and see.

it is brand new, just bought it 2-3 weeks ago.

so what i did was pull the STR-450's i just popped in there this past weekend, and put in the jjel34's i had previously. still quiet raspy sound.
i took a 12ax7 and swapped it in every single 12ax7's position (pulled the one in there out, put this one in, tested the amp. nothing. put tube back in, moved to next position)...and still bad sound.

i just sold my dual rec yesterday, so i didnt have another rectifier tube to try, but will try pulling it and switching to diode with no tube.

i think these were my settings when it went out on the ACE combo (no speaker mismatch...it is the 1x12 combo).
ch.2 tite. diode. bold. gain about 11oclock, master about 12, fxloop on (i tried switching it off afterwards to see if that was something wrong as well, but it wasnt), output to about 11:30. cant remember right now bass treble or presence, but nothing extreme. same settings as in that audio clip i posted in the rigs and tones forum testing the sound matched to the dual rec.
nothing extreme.
i guess if it is the rectifier tube, it's under warranty. hell, if it was even the power tubes (which it isnt) i just bought those too.
I just hope this isnt another Stiletto gone bad episode.
 
rabies said:
And if a power tube didn't short (which it sounds like one didn't), then the screen grid resistors should be ok. John @ hollywood said the screen grid resistors don't go out too often with the stiletto series...

keep us posted.

Just to give you some comfort, I use my Stilletto Ace 5 days a week for 2 hours a day through a 2x12 with the volumes at about 11 o'clock on both channels for three weeks now with no issues. I love it. My MKIV is getting lonely..... :cry:
 
Check the effects loop. i dunno if you have a bypass switch, but if so, try it.

good luck
 
went to hollywood mesa today, they checked it out and said it was probably a screen resistor solder came loose.

hmm.


haven't we heard this before?
 
mightywarlock said:
went to hollywood mesa today, they checked it out and said it was probably a screen resistor solder came loose.

hmm.


haven't we heard this before?

Yes, we did..... Mine had some bad solder joints. I touched them up before I turned it on...... :x
 
rabies said:
mightywarlock said:
probably a screen resistor solder came loose.

lame. that's so lame if that happened. never had that happen to me before on any amp. how does that happen?

don't ask John (mgr & service tech) too many techie questions. he's an irritable (bipolar) kind of guy (like me).

f%&# mesa.

oh i know. if he is the one with the longer dark hair, he is the one that said it was a screen resistor first, and said it was probably due to a bad tube. i said i just bought the tubes this weekend(the str450's), and he got all irritable and said some stupid comment like "oh ok...i have only been doing this for like 20 years...."
not sure what his problem was, as he has always been pretty cool to me...but because i bought the amp used instead of buying it from them in the mesa store, he seemed ticked. well boo f*ing hoo. wonder what he would think if i told him i just bought a month old Deuce II AND 412 recto cab for $1100 (total) tonight. Had to drive all night to get it, but i think that was more than worth the time spent.

it's ok. gonna get the Ace all fixed up soon and sell it. i think i like the Deuce better...to my ears...seems similar, but i like the tone change when you switch it to 100 watts. gives it a more deeper low end, which i like. But want to A/B the two amps together and see the difference to really make up my mind.
 
rabies said:
BTW, the JMP-1 with a solid power amp is at least as good as if not better in terms of tone and flexibility/options than the Stiletto line.

i disagree/agree.

i own both (see my sig. with some of my gear). so far, i think the jmp-1 through the 2:90 or EL34-100/100 sounds good...but is not the same thing as the Stiletto at all. the stiletto's have much more treble and cut the mix better to me. flexibility, maybe, since you can save your patches and recall them instantly, but i am still not 100% convinced with the JMP-1 yet. i got the Triaxis and JMP-1 very close together recently, but so far have liked the Triaxis tone better (with an EQ from my G-force) for most things. i felt i still wanted a different tone, even after buying the JMP-1, hence me buying the stiletto's. maybe i just haven't learned to tweak it right yet, or haven't messed around with it enough...but i still yearn for a head with the jmp-1. it's good, better than most people give it credit for (lots of comments about it sounding thin...it can, just needs different tweaking)...but it has it's own distinct tone, just like everything else.
 
Hi There,
I own a stiletto ace combo, which I bought from a board member here a few weeks ago. I had some problems, some similar to yours - I own an original Mark I and a Mark IVb and as soon as I got the amp I jammed with a friend who plays way too loud, it seemed that the volume on the stilleto was weak so I replaced the power tubes with a new set and still sounded weak - ok, I pull head from chassis to check out all the tubes and notice that one of the black screen grid (?) resistors on the power tubes is disconnected at one end. Called Boogie Store, they told me sometimes when a tube redplates it will get so hot it melts the solder on the resistor, so I went down there with the chassis only, John soldered the resistor back on and told me one of the power tubes was bad, I had bought them at the boogie store (didnt have reciept with me) so he put a new set in gratis. He also told me I should transfer the warranty on this amp asap (ie I bought it from a third party and it was not yet under waranty).

Ok so I go home, mount the chassis in the shell and fire it up to see if it is fixed - the amp is louder, runs great for 5 mins and starts to sound scratchy again - I decide to crank the input and then the master vols to see where this is coming from, when I crank both to 10 after about three seconds the volume drops to about 1 watt as you describe. **** - ok, take the chassis out again and I take a look - BOTH screen grid resistors are now disconnected at one end, the end that hooks to the tube socket. Call Boogie store and they say, call factory and transfer warranty, then bring it in - oh also take out any non boogie tubes before I bring it as they void the warranty. Next available time (monday following) I called factory, transfered warranty, replaced all the preamp tubes with new boogie 12ax7's (v1 with the mesa spax7a) and take amp back to boogie store, John says gimme a couple of days.

Two days later he had it fixed, I had requested they test it cranked - everything seems ok. The new power tubes he had put in were still good. I guess part of this problem is this: The head and the combo both share the same amp chassis, boards etc, but in the combo the amp chassis is turned upside down. This means that components that are inserted into the top of a circuit board are now hanging from it when the amp is mounted in combo. So when the tubes get really hot the solder in the hole for the grid resistor could melt and the resistor fall out, at the hot end anyway. John mounted the resistors on the opposite side of the circuit board to prevent this. Since getting it back it seems to be fine, no further problems - however I have not cranked both vols to 10 again and I am not sure I want to. My observation is that this combo is (duh obviously) not as loud as either of my Mark's, and I miss the headroom. I recently picked up a Simul 295 and on my last trip to the Boogie Store I got a pair of 1x12 EV Theil cabs they had on consignment ($500 for the pair) so I am gonna do the w-d-w thing to get the volume up, I wanted to do this with my Mark IV anyway so I will see how it works with the stilleto also. I am very interested in how the deuce II you bought sounds, I considered this but have no space for 4x12 cabs.

I would say that I have found the Boogie Store people to be extremely helpful. I mean come on - fixing something I bought used, that the warranty has not been transferred on, for free, the minute I walked in - where can you get this kind of service? Granted, it is a mesa product and should not be having these issues in the first place (resistors falling out of chassis wtf??) but that would be design issues and given the situation John has been extremely helpful.

Additionally I would note that the spax7a reduced internal feedback (microphonics) significantly. There was in this previously 2 x tungsol, one gt12a7-c and 2 x mesa 12ax7.
 

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