putting on a black flaceplate on my dual

[dropped_2_c]

most importantly how hard would it be to remove the diamondplate? i ws gonna make a new one at work and just powdercoat the old one at the shop. just curious if it's hard to remove and if so what is the best method of removal.

the recto is a 2 channel 94-95 and with the black chassis i was just wanting to see the difference after i remove the plate and put on a black one to see if i prefer it in person.

 

[dropped_2_c]

i have heard they use strong 3m two sided tape and i have also head they use liquid nails? none of these i am certain of the 3m tape seems more logical

 

[Russ]

It is strong double sided tape by 3M. You heat it off with a heat gun. Be careful to not ruin the cab covering though as it too will want to come off.

 

[dropped_2_c]

i will more than likely heat it from the inside at low temp first, of course i'll remove the chassis

 

[clutch71]

i will more than likely heat it from the inside at low temp first, of course i'll remove the chassis

Not to hijack, but take pictuers with emphasis on how to take the chasis off for us noob's if you don't mind.

 

[Russ]

i will more than likely heat it from the inside at low temp first, of course i'll remove the chassis

I don't think that is such a great idea because you will also be heating the rest of the cab. Heat radiates. It isn't necessarily directional. I would just heat the panel itself. Once the panel comes off it will be easy enough to get the individual pads off.

 

[Russ]

Not to hijack, but take pictuers with emphasis on how to take the chasis off for us noob's if you don't mind.

If you place your amp head on a table and slide it to the edge so that the feet are clear of the edge of the table you can look underneath the cab and see the chassis mounting bolts. More than likely they will have a chassis strap also. Once you know what you are looking for, remove your tubes taking care to not get them mixed up then remove the 2 screws at each end of the cabinet on the bottom. Do not remove the feet. Once you have the 4 screws removed you simply slide the chassis out. Be careful not to get your fingers inside of the amp. There are componenets in there that will still have a charge on them and can kill you dead. Once you have the chassis out, this is a good time to look inside to see what revision board you have if you are the owner of a 2 ch. The revision would be on the PCB below the blue C cell battery sized caps towards the edge of the PCB. It should say something like RF-1(x). The (x) will be the revision. This is also a great time to do a quick once over inspection for parts that may appear ready to quit. Caps with bulges should be addressed. Any signs of overheating or melting should also be noted. You can also look for your inspection dates from when it was being built if you are interested.

If you don't know what you are going to touch do not touch it. Do not touch anything inside your chassis unless you know what you are doing. If anything should fall inside, invert the chassis and move it around until whatever it was falls out. Do not sweat over the components and do not spill anything inside the chassis. I am not trying to scare you off but a little caution is better than death. Voltage will not warn you. It travels at the speed of light.

 

[mesanomad100]

yeah I think its a pretty easy job with a heat gun!!!!!


as mentioned just mind the tolex covering!!!

 

[Elpelotero]

Not to hijack, but take pictuers with emphasis on how to take the chasis off for us noob's if you don't mind.

If you place your amp head on a table and slide it to the edge so that the feet are clear of the edge of the table you can look underneath the cab and see the chassis mounting bolts. More than likely they will have a chassis strap also. Once you know what you are looking for, remove your tubes taking care to not get them mixed up then remove the 2 screws at each end of the cabinet on the bottom. Do not remove the feet. Once you have the 4 screws removed you simply slide the chassis out. Be careful not to get your fingers inside of the amp. There are componenets in there that will still have a charge on them and can kill you dead. Once you have the chassis out, this is a good time to look inside to see what revision board you have if you are the owner of a 2 ch. The revision would be on the PCB below the blue C cell battery sized caps towards the edge of the PCB. It should say something like RF-1(x). The (x) will be the revision. This is also a great time to do a quick once over inspection for parts that may appear ready to quit. Caps with bulges should be addressed. Any signs of overheating or melting should also be noted. You can also look for your inspection dates from when it was being built if you are interested.

If you don't know what you are going to touch do not touch it. Do not touch anything inside your chassis unless you know what you are doing. If anything should fall inside, invert the chassis and move it around until whatever it was falls out. Do not sweat over the components and do not spill anything inside the chassis. I am not trying to scare you off but a little caution is better than death. Voltage will not warn you. It travels at the speed of light.

that should be a Sticky so new users don't get shocked!

 

[BigMesa]

What about using a Iron like the kind you iron your clothes with? It puts out alot of heat but doesnt radiate to bad. You could probabyl put it right up against the plate and it would loosen the 3M.

I use an iron when removing tolex from old cabs, works great for me.

 

[ibanez4life SZ!]

One guy here did a black powder coat of some sort on a standard rectifier...looked just like a blackface, without all the trouble of heat guns, etc.

I believe he has it posted in the "Post Your Rig" Section...I'd check it out.

 

[dropped_2_c]

One guy here did a black powder coat of some sort on a standard rectifier...looked just like a blackface, without all the trouble of heat guns, etc.

I believe he has it posted in the "Post Your Rig" Section...I'd check it out.

thanks bro, any luck on the mark IV yet. man i am getting great tones out of my 2 channel it's not a mark but i am very very happy

 

[Russ]

What about using a Iron like the kind you iron your clothes with? It puts out alot of heat but doesnt radiate to bad. You could probabyl put it right up against the plate and it would loosen the 3M.

I use an iron when removing tolex from old cabs, works great for me.

An iron would work too but would add weight and might be awkward once you get to the point when the tabs start releasing. Also, do not steam. Maybe lay a thin cloth over the face of the faceplate to keep from scratching it too.

 

[ibanez4life SZ!]

Order a brand new mark IV this tuesday

 

[Russ]

Sweet....

 

[dropped_2_c]

Order a brand new mark IV this tuesday

congrats