Mark III Stripes?
- Thread starter Nomad
- Start date
Help Support The Boogie Board:
Here you go dude.
http://homepage.mac.com/mesaboogie/dot.html
Oh dear, same post within seconds hahahaha.
http://homepage.mac.com/mesaboogie/dot.html
Oh dear, same post within seconds hahahaha.
JimAnsell
Well-known member
all the simulclass mark IIIs have class a/simulclass switch.
basicly a high/low power switch.
not just the greens.
still, go after a green if you can find one
basicly a high/low power switch.
not just the greens.
still, go after a green if you can find one
JimAnsell said:all the simulclass mark IIIs have class a/simulclass switch.
basicly a high/low power switch.
not just the greens.
still, go after a green if you can find one
Yes but I believe from what I see the Green Stripe is 25 watts in Class A and the other Simul Class Amps are 15 watts in Class A. Correct me if I'm wrong.
JimAnsell
Well-known member
you have that part right.
phyrexia
Well-known member
Not hard to add a pentode/triode switch and then you're a step closer to IVdom.
no that would take it to 75w
15 w in class a
60 w in class ab
15 w in class a
60 w in class ab
JimAnsell
Well-known member
Nomad said:
yes.
even if the switch says half power (like on the long heads), its still 85/25
AJ_Newkirk
Well-known member
I am curious as to how this would sound compared to the other stripes when in Simulclass mode. Does the increased ratio of classA to classAB change the sound very much? I'd be inclined to think it would be a major difference but I have never heard a green stripe in person.
Green stripes are wired for pentode in the outer sockets (25 watts). Earlier Mk IIIs are triode (15 watts) and give more power tube breakup at lower volumes. But 10 more "clean" watts is barely enough to hear IMO. It feels a bit punchier, but less elastic and less forgiving. Note that on the Mk IV you can switch between pentode and triode in the outer sockets.
IMO, the Mk IV (and probably the green stripe) in pentode stays cleaner than the triode Mk III until you start cranking the master to about 4 or 5, then the whole power section is clipping anyway. YMMV.
IMO, the Mk IV (and probably the green stripe) in pentode stays cleaner than the triode Mk III until you start cranking the master to about 4 or 5, then the whole power section is clipping anyway. YMMV.
rvschulz
Well-known member
well, if you are in an area where you can turnn the master up to 5, wonderful, i would be in jail and deaf. this is a volume monster. i have found mine in 85 watt mode to be as beautiful sounding as anything i;ve ever heard.
For the record Im not trying to imply the 85 watt power setting dosnt sound good I bet it sounds amasing.
What Im saying is for my purposes 85 watts is gonna be too loud for most of my applications now granted at an out side gig with even the 1x12 extension hooked up 85 watts would be fine but most of the smaller venue stuff we do 85 would just be too much.
I believe the Simul Class Green Stripe with the 25 watt setting might do the trick as well as a 60 watt version. Even if the 60 watter isnt enuff at some bigger gigs I allways have the option of using a Mic into the PA.
What Im saying is for my purposes 85 watts is gonna be too loud for most of my applications now granted at an out side gig with even the 1x12 extension hooked up 85 watts would be fine but most of the smaller venue stuff we do 85 would just be too much.
I believe the Simul Class Green Stripe with the 25 watt setting might do the trick as well as a 60 watt version. Even if the 60 watter isnt enuff at some bigger gigs I allways have the option of using a Mic into the PA.
Vigo1999
Well-known member
^^^
FWIW ive played a gig last friday in a pub here for 270-300 people with my MKIII on Class "A" option (15 watts) with no problems (and yes, no mic :wink: )
FWIW ive played a gig last friday in a pub here for 270-300 people with my MKIII on Class "A" option (15 watts) with no problems (and yes, no mic :wink: )
Nomad said:
Hi Nomad,
Don't lose the point of a MKIII by weighing it on its wattage. SimulClass, the 60 watter, and the 60/100 all are different amps that will have slightly different voices. Add this to the fact that each stripe is yet another nuance, albeit more subtle. Class-A, 75 or 85 watts, pentode or triode ...these are all shadings of the same essential amp, but shadings that *will* render a slightly different voice. So don't look for a 60watt MKIII just because 85 is "too much and you'll never use it." Look for the version that you want because it's got the features and sound you're looking for ...irrespective of wattage or which vintage. This is not a slam, as much as it sounds (by your post, anyhow) like you're trying to decide based on how much watts you think you "need."
If I were to personally say there is one feature that you MUST have on a MKIII, I'd say find one with a Graphic EQ for its versatility (and even then, others will disagree with me on this point). A MKIII in good shape with just the GEQ would make me happy. Ignore the wattage and look for one in good shape as they are all great-sounding amps. All IMHO, of course. Hope this helps you a bit
Edward
Point take Edaward.
Though I have played many Boogies through the years starting in the late 70's I havent had the pleasure of Playing the different Mark III's that are out there. I've only played one Mark III and have no idea what it was.
I do on the wattage side somwhere around 50 seems to work best for me with a smidge down on the master. I have gigged with hundred watters as well but that works best for me at outside gigs. For most of the smaller stuff we do 50 is usually borderline to much but 30 is somtimes not enuff. So Goldy Lox can be pissy sometimes. Without hearing all of them I do think the Green Stripe (with the 25 watt option) or a 60 watter would best suit my situation.
One thing I like to do if I can get by with it is keep the power amp in whatever I'm playing smokin. With any more than 60watts at most gigs that would be hard for me to do. I seem to be most pleased with my Tone by getting all I can out of the Amp Clean with a smidge of breakup and for Screaming Solos jump up a little from there. With one of these babys running at 85 watts or so I might start getting some funny looks. With the Green Stripe in 25 watts that would probably plausable. 15 watts for me would never cut it.
To give you an example of what I do now (havent snagged a Boogie yet) I use a 50 watt amp that measure 50 watts clean on a scope and 85 watts dimed. I play it (with a 12AU7) in V1 with the Preamp dimed and the Master dimed. It is scremaing with a pedal in front of it.
Though I have played many Boogies through the years starting in the late 70's I havent had the pleasure of Playing the different Mark III's that are out there. I've only played one Mark III and have no idea what it was.
I do on the wattage side somwhere around 50 seems to work best for me with a smidge down on the master. I have gigged with hundred watters as well but that works best for me at outside gigs. For most of the smaller stuff we do 50 is usually borderline to much but 30 is somtimes not enuff. So Goldy Lox can be pissy sometimes. Without hearing all of them I do think the Green Stripe (with the 25 watt option) or a 60 watter would best suit my situation.
One thing I like to do if I can get by with it is keep the power amp in whatever I'm playing smokin. With any more than 60watts at most gigs that would be hard for me to do. I seem to be most pleased with my Tone by getting all I can out of the Amp Clean with a smidge of breakup and for Screaming Solos jump up a little from there. With one of these babys running at 85 watts or so I might start getting some funny looks. With the Green Stripe in 25 watts that would probably plausable. 15 watts for me would never cut it.
To give you an example of what I do now (havent snagged a Boogie yet) I use a 50 watt amp that measure 50 watts clean on a scope and 85 watts dimed. I play it (with a 12AU7) in V1 with the Preamp dimed and the Master dimed. It is scremaing with a pedal in front of it.
Similar threads
