LoneStar Special vs. Maverick: Who wins?

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I'm going to keep looking. I'd love a Mav short head that would fit on my compact cabs and not weigh a ton. I put up a feeler in classifieds.

Were many of the short heads made? I see them around from time to time but there don't seem to be many for sale currently.
 
GAS wins again.

I got a pretty decent deal on an old Mav 2x12. Sweet sounding amp but this one is no glamour princess.

I can't wait till I get the chance to hear this thing turned up.

Thanks for the advice (or is that peer pressure??) :mrgreen:
 
Not be nosey, but how much did you spend? I might go check one out next week-end but it's a 3 hour drive! The things we do for GAS! :lol:

Matt
 
I have a Maverick head that I use with a 1x12 widebody recto cab. It's a great combination. I love the dirt channel with humbucking pickups. I also have a Lonestar special, and the clean channel, IMHO, is one of the best I've played. For versatility, the Maverick will give you more usable tones without resorting to pedals. However, I feel the Lonestar takes pedals very well, while the Maverick, not so much.
 
Now that I've had some time to try out my Maverick, i'm really digging the tones on channel 1. Incredible range of sounds available from that channel. I've never liked playing a Strat (stock SSS) through my Mark but it sounds like a dream through the Mav.

So here's where I need help. I'm lost on channel 2. It has more drive than I was expecting. (I know - it's a Mesa/Boogie what'ya expect? Right?)

Anybody want to share your favorite lead channel settings????
 
Tubes for channel 2: The stock Chinese 12ax7 tubes were too wasp-in-a-jam jar fizzybuzzy in the dirty channel for my ears... V2-VOS Siemens e83cc or ecc83 shortplate, V3-VOS Mullard ecc83 shortplate. For smooth Santana-esque tones I use 9:00-10:00 gain using PAF style humbuckers. Depends on pickups/strength of input signal for gain knob setting. For wider range on the gain knob of smooth and fat lower-mid gain tones try a VOS Mullard CV 4024 (12at7) or for slightly more gain GE grayplate 5751 in V2. Both those tubes are still semi-affordable and sound great.

Also, I run Siemens VOS shortplate e83cc or ecc83 for PI. Similar in sounds for both models. Mav's reward their owners when pimped out in the tube department. At some point when I have mine recapped for the power supply I definitely will have an adjustable bias mod installed. The amp is too old for any warranty issues.
 
Good advice. Thanks. I haven't had a chance to look as see what tubes are under the cover yet. I have a bunch tubes. I think I have a Mullard At7 and a old Phillips tube around here some where I'll play around with those this weekend.

Your bang on about the fizz. I need to find the right tube(s) to de-fizz and round out the lead channel.
 
Try a 12AY7 in V2. That's the classic 50s Fender Tweed V1, which is equivalent to V2 in the Maverick's lead channel. It has the lower gain of the 12AT7 (actually even a bit lower) but the richer tone of the 12AX7 - 12AT7s usually sound a bit cold in gain stages (to me). I had a full set of NOS GE preamp tubes in mine, including the 12AY7.

I also put 12AT7s in the reverb and PI slots, where I think they sound great. I totally agree that the Maverick is very tube-sensitive, especially on the lead channel. It's really stretching each tube stage to the max to get that amount of gain - it actually has the same number of stages as the clean channel - and that always tends to magnify the tube characteristics. The clean channel is less sensitive.

The bias is pretty hot for a Mesa, too - which also makes it sensitive to power tubes - to make it adjustable you'd have to lower the cathode resistor value and add a high-power trimmer in series, which is certainly possible, but I'm not sure it will make too much difference.
 
This is good advice, however, not all at's are cold sounding in ax7 positions, I have had good luck with that cv4024 along with a few others. It is smooth, round, and fat.

And not to hijack the thread, but to 94Trem: Why not parallell instead of series on the lower value cathode resistor/ trimmer pot thang?
 
First, because if you parallel the existing resistor you can only go hotter than the stock value - which is already nearer the hotter end of the useful range - and you'll need to keep another resistor in series with the trimmer to stop the value getting anywhere near zero which would overload the tubes; and second, because when a trimmer is in parallel, it draws more current as its resistance goes down, which means you still need to limit it with another resistor or it will risk overheating the contact point as it approaches the lower end of its range, or at the least mean that the trimmer has to be rated for more power than necessary. So this is now three components, instead of two. You will need to replace the stock resistor with a larger value to solve any of these problems, but if you put the trimmer in series with a *smaller* value of new resistor, it's only two components and the current goes down as the trimmer resistance rises, so it dissipates less power and is self-limiting to an extent - simpler, cheaper and safer.

The stock value is 75 ohms. To get a useful bias range both above and below that, you would replace the stock resistor with a 68-ohm or 62-ohm (or maybe 56 or 47-ohm, depending on how hot you want to risk it!), in series with a 47-ohm trimmer. The trimmer will still need to be rated for about 2 or 3W, but these are obtainable.
 
94Tremoverb said:
Try a 12AY7 in V2. That's the classic 50s Fender Tweed V1, which is equivalent to V2 in the Maverick's lead channel. It has the lower gain of the 12AT7 (actually even a bit lower) but the richer tone of the 12AX7 - 12AT7s usually sound a bit cold in gain stages (to me). I had a full set of NOS GE preamp tubes in mine, including the 12AY7.

I also put 12AT7s in the reverb and PI slots, where I think they sound great.

In my maverick, I'm running a NOS GE 12ax7 in V1, JAN phillips 5751 in V2, and in V6 (PI) i've got a NOS Mullard 12at7. I haven't spent much time swapping tubes for comparison, but so far that setup is sounding fine to me. One of these days i'll do some v1 and v2 rolling just for experimentation....i get distracted and just end up playing guitar! :)
 
i get distracted and just end up playing guitar!

:D :D :D :D Nice problem to have!



I am using the original Mesa preamp tubes, which they said were Chinese. They actually sound pretty good. Haven't had time to go through the box of tubes and try any out.

I just put a quad of JJ EL84's in it too, which really helped a lot!
 
Monsta-Tone said:
i get distracted and just end up playing guitar!

:D :D :D :D Nice problem to have!

ha ha, i'm not complaining! thinking about gear is what i do when i should be doing my day job (don't tell my boss!). when i'm home, it's playin' time.

Monsta-Tone said:
I just put a quad of JJ EL84's in it too, which really helped a lot!



jj el84's are what i use too. sound good to me! for el84 amps, i like them best with just a touch of power section break-up. hmm.....i'm about due for another set actually.
 
94Tremoverb said:
First, because if you parallel the existing resistor you can only go hotter than the stock value - which is already nearer the hotter end of the useful range - and you'll need to keep another resistor in series with the trimmer to stop the value getting anywhere near zero which would overload the tubes; and second, because when a trimmer is in parallel, it draws more current as its resistance goes down, which means you still need to limit it with another resistor or it will risk overheating the contact point as it approaches the lower end of its range, or at the least mean that the trimmer has to be rated for more power than necessary. So this is now three components, instead of two. You will need to replace the stock resistor with a larger value to solve any of these problems, but if you put the trimmer in series with a *smaller* value of new resistor, it's only two components and the current goes down as the trimmer resistance rises, so it dissipates less power and is self-limiting to an extent - simpler, cheaper and safer.

The stock value is 75 ohms. To get a useful bias range both above and below that, you would replace the stock resistor with a 68-ohm or 62-ohm (or maybe 56 or 47-ohm, depending on how hot you want to risk it!), in series with a 47-ohm trimmer. The trimmer will still need to be rated for about 2 or 3W, but these are obtainable.

Thanks! Awesome!
 
So last night, I decided to do my own Pepsi challenge with the LSS and Maverick. I pulled the Maverick head out of storage, and put a fresh quad of EL84s in it. Using my Les Paul, I must say, now I remember why I bought the Maverick 14 years ago. WOW, the clean channel gives this chimey almost voxish tone I really, really dig. The LSS is much more fendery sounding, which is not a bad thing, I just dig the Maverick's tone more.
The Maverick's dirty channel is kinda like a Dual Rec meets a Blue Angel. It works better in the bold, solid state rectifier setting, IMHO. Single coils don't work too well with it, but with humbuckers, WHOA!
The shortcomings of the Maverick IMO are it's FX loop (should be serial), lack of a presence knob, and a separate bright/fat switches for each channel.
 
Supertgtr said:
The shortcomings of the Maverick IMO are it's FX loop (should be serial), lack of a presence knob, and a separate bright/fat switches for each channel.
You can convert th fx loop to series. I did it with my nomad.

I got the LS over the Maverick. Ideal situation wouldve been to get both. But the LS just did it for me more.
I plug the Maverick in every once and a while but I dont feel like Im missing out on anything when I do. I understand the charm of it though.
 
PM me with your email address and I will send you the drawing for the DC loop conversion. It's exactly the same!
It makes a world of difference.
On amps with "Fixed Bias," I use the Mix pot hole to add a Bias Pot.
On amps with "Cathode Bias," or what Mesa calls, "Class A," I add a switch to make the loop Series or Parallel where the Mix pot used to be.
 
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