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The reverb knob has much more control, and the reverb decay is a lot smoother

I installed a really strong NOS Sylvania 12AX7 in V5 of my DC-5 and that really made a difference

The DC-5 is the same as the Mark IV widebody, I have both at my house and have measured them.

The 12AT7 in the Phase Inverter helps keep them cleaner at louder volumes. I wouldnt recommend it so much for bedroom volumes. The clean channel gets louder before wanting to break up, and the lead channels just need slightly more gain dialed in to sound good.

So here is what i currently have for tubes in my DC-5 and my Dual Rectifier and they sound amazing 7/10 - So I changed my tube configuration because my blackplate became microphonic :cry: DC-5 V1 - NOS Sylvania 12AX7 Grey Plate V2 - JJ ECC83S V3 - JJ ECC83S V4 - JJ ECC83S V5 - NOS Sylvania...

You could always try running a 12AT7 in your Phase Inverter, that should give you more clean headroom, and then you could turn your gain up on your lead channels.

I bought the amp used, I dont know if the original owner had it done or not.

The knobs on the back look like the ones on my Stiletto. Did any one else notice next to the Diode/Tube switch it says 50W only?? Sounds like it only has one rectifier tube and to run full power you have to run diode.

I have a Stiletto Trident Stage 1, is there any way to tell if it has the hollywood mod??

I installed the C90's in the bottom and V30's up top and it sounds amazing. so much more beef without breaking up too much. I am very happy that i did it.

I have a Recto Standard 4x12 with V30's, I have 2 extra 8 Ohm Black Shadow Custom 90's. Is it worth it to try swapping out 2 of the v30's and run 2 x v30's and 2 x c90's? What kind of change could i expect. I play rock to metal and am looking for a good heavy tone that isnt so ear piercing. Thanks

Thats the first time I ever saw that in my 50/50 manual. I never really worried about it because it spent all of its time hooked up to the recto 4x12 in stereo. Thats good to know. I guess since there is no input at all the tubes remain at idle. Just hope you dont ever have a bad pot that...

well the problem with that is to turn it down to non ear piercing levels you get away from that sweet spot. If i had a 2:100 i would run a reactive load on one side and use only 100 watts unless i was somewhere i could use all that power.

So, based on that the 2:100 is a No Rec since it has no rectifier tubes??? and I think the power would have more of an affect on the sweet spot than number of rectifier tubes. Most people I know dont run there rectos in tube rec mode anyways.

How are you running your amp now?? Tube amps require a load on the output, if you run your amp with one side disconnected your transformer will blow. If you intend on using a 1x12 with that beast you will need a reactive load such as THD hotplate for the unused channel. Also I would recommend...

Wouldn't the Recto Pre and Stereo 2:100 be a Quadruple Rectifier since it is 100 watts per side. I can see if you put a reactive load on one side and used just one channel it would be more along the lines of a dual rec. If you run a Mesa 4x12 in stereo you would be running 100 Watts per side. if...

Nice Little Schematic. I wonder if we can find housings like the F-100 and use that to make a custom footswitch. We could always mod our DC's to have a midi plug in the back like the F series and just wire the footswitch to one jack. We'll have to talk about it when you get back from Sedona.

I am retubing my amp and here are my options of tubes i have 1 - New Tung Sol 1 - New Tung Sol - Hi Gain 2 - JJ ECC83S 2 - JJ ECC83S - Hi Gain 1 - JJ ECC83S - Balanced 2 - Sovtek 12AX7WA 1 - Sovtek 12AX7WB here is my thought process V1 - Hi Gain Tung Sol V2 - Hi Gain JJ V3 - Hi Gain JJ V4...

I love the DC Series and would have to say the DC-3 is my favorite Low Watt Mesa