JustPassingThrough
Well-known member
Hello,
The fan on my Ace had become rather noisy as of late and sounded like a hand dryer in a public bathroom (issue 1). I was also picking up some clicking through the speaker (issue 2)
Issue 1: replace the noisy fan.
This is fairly easy.
Get a Noctua A6x25- Either PWM or FLX. It does not matter. The PWM is the fancy version for computer case fans that has different speed levels and automatic speeds when temps get a certain threshold. That doesn't matter here.
You need to worry about 2 of the wires: YELLOW and BLACK. The other 2 are superfluous (I clipped them short and wrapped them in tape) and are used for the controlling/automated stuff mentioned above.
YELLOW = HOT
BLACK = GROUND
Strip these 2 wires back, leaving about 10mm of bare wire.
Unscrew the existing fan from the chassis. Desolder or clip the red and black wires from the fan and keep them as long as you're able. Too long a wire is infinitely better than too short in this case.
Splice the red and black wires to the yellow and black on the fan. I put the old and new side by side, twisted them together tightly, soldered them, then wrapped them in heat shrink.
Connect the wires like this:
STOCK / NOCTUA
RED to YELLOW
BLACK to BLACK
Heatshrink over your joins to prevent any future weirdness.
RESULT = Better cooling, fan is silent.
ISSUE 2: Fan noise coming through speaker.
According to Mesa the capacitor designed to quieten the power rail for the fan can die over time (it takes several years but is a known point of failure), go crappy, and short out. It's a 15uf/25v tantalum cap that you need to replace. I used a 22uf/50v electrolytic as I had them to hand. More filtering never hurt anybody.
This cap lives in parallel to R17, and is located here by the big tall capacitors. See the red circle. It's that yellow bullet shaped cap to the right hand side of the tall guy. The chamfer (facing the pots) is the positive end. Do not switch the polarity. Unsolder it, then solder the new cap to the same place, over the resistor. This will quieten the power supply to the fan and won't fail as readily as tantalum.
RESULT: No more clicking, quieter fan operation. All is good.
Total time for the mod is about 30 minutes front to back, and 25 of that is getting the chassis out and then back in again. There's really not a lot to it for a really useful upgrade to a quality part that's cheaper and better than the fans Mesa sells and will last years, they even come with a 6 year warranty.
Cheers.
The fan on my Ace had become rather noisy as of late and sounded like a hand dryer in a public bathroom (issue 1). I was also picking up some clicking through the speaker (issue 2)

Issue 1: replace the noisy fan.
This is fairly easy.
Get a Noctua A6x25- Either PWM or FLX. It does not matter. The PWM is the fancy version for computer case fans that has different speed levels and automatic speeds when temps get a certain threshold. That doesn't matter here.
You need to worry about 2 of the wires: YELLOW and BLACK. The other 2 are superfluous (I clipped them short and wrapped them in tape) and are used for the controlling/automated stuff mentioned above.
YELLOW = HOT
BLACK = GROUND
Strip these 2 wires back, leaving about 10mm of bare wire.
Unscrew the existing fan from the chassis. Desolder or clip the red and black wires from the fan and keep them as long as you're able. Too long a wire is infinitely better than too short in this case.
Splice the red and black wires to the yellow and black on the fan. I put the old and new side by side, twisted them together tightly, soldered them, then wrapped them in heat shrink.
Connect the wires like this:
STOCK / NOCTUA
RED to YELLOW
BLACK to BLACK
Heatshrink over your joins to prevent any future weirdness.
RESULT = Better cooling, fan is silent.

ISSUE 2: Fan noise coming through speaker.
According to Mesa the capacitor designed to quieten the power rail for the fan can die over time (it takes several years but is a known point of failure), go crappy, and short out. It's a 15uf/25v tantalum cap that you need to replace. I used a 22uf/50v electrolytic as I had them to hand. More filtering never hurt anybody.
This cap lives in parallel to R17, and is located here by the big tall capacitors. See the red circle. It's that yellow bullet shaped cap to the right hand side of the tall guy. The chamfer (facing the pots) is the positive end. Do not switch the polarity. Unsolder it, then solder the new cap to the same place, over the resistor. This will quieten the power supply to the fan and won't fail as readily as tantalum.

RESULT: No more clicking, quieter fan operation. All is good.
Total time for the mod is about 30 minutes front to back, and 25 of that is getting the chassis out and then back in again. There's really not a lot to it for a really useful upgrade to a quality part that's cheaper and better than the fans Mesa sells and will last years, they even come with a 6 year warranty.
Cheers.
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