WANTED Mark 11 c Schematic

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murray

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Has anybody got a good mark11c schematic , every one i've seen looks like , CRAP , you can't read most of the component values , if i can't find one i'll have to do it hard way , but i'll post it when i'm finished. :shock:
 
There are better schematics. Google is your friend, and the search button here too!

Maybe you should work out your own schematic. I have studied it and found the schematic inaccurate anyway. There are components missing from the power section, the phase inverter part is also wrong. And that's just the poweramp :)
 
Boogies are a constantly evolving process. These guys never stopped looking for improvments. I've seen amps with the same stripe have slight variations and I've never seen one that fully matched the published drawings.
 
My Blue Print is in my head. The schematic is just artwork drawn the wrong direction with intentionally missing or mismarked components.
You have to go over it part by part and make notes.
 
jvk said:
There are better schematics. Google is your friend, and the search button here too!

Maybe you should work out your own schematic. I have studied it and found the schematic inaccurate anyway. There are components missing from the power section, the phase inverter part is also wrong. And that's just the poweramp :)

Ha !!!

I've seen that part added back to the terminal strip between the two boards. From terminal 1 to ground. They only used it if a particular amp had an oscillation at high volumes. It was also a .05 cap.
 
Hello mate :) Is that the cap that's permanently there with the MarkIVs? Didn't know what it was there for.

I used to think that what people said about the IIC+ schematics being wrong was just IIC+ snobbery, and that people just want to avoid their precious amps from being ripped off, and suffering a similar fate to the SLO (a DIY'ers favourite). Intentionally misdrawn... too right! What makes the IIC+ especially hard to clone is that in order to trace the circuit boards properly, you have to look at the traces on the underside and so the board needs to be removed. But first the 4 sockets have to be desoldered, along with alot of the wires. It looks like at the time of assembly the sockets were screwed into the chassis first, then the pcb was placed on top and the socket pins were soldered to it. It's a right pain in the arse to remove, and it's risky ripping apart a vintage amp like this, with irreplacable circuit boards.
 
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