Explore as you whish. I do not think it will pan out. I have not much to offer in this subject. I had thought about that long ago, the what if sort of questioning. Perhaps with the MWDR it may have some potential but not with the Roadster. It may depend on the PT and OT characteristics. Not something I would want to risk based on a rumor if it was actually true. The spongy mode runs the entire amp at a reduced voltage. this includes the bias. preamp tubes and everything else powered by the mains. No different than using a Variac except the Variac can adjust it lower or higher than the mains supply. Not sure how low of a voltage the amp can tolerate. I am not willing to sacrifice my gear to find out.
Reducing the bias voltage magnitude will get closer to the EL34 bias region. That is usually -39VDC where as the 6L6 bias is roughly -69V or at -51V in spongy mode. Then again, the plate voltage will also be dropping resulting in a change in load lines of each triode and power tube. To what extent will the reduction in AC voltage place the tubes in an unusable state? When will the heaters begin to drop resulting in less thermal energy to emit electrons?
I would recommend trying this with an amp that has no complex switching components or relays. Something made with peg board and hand wired as they made them that way in the early days. No sensitive electronic components such as JFETS, transistors and such, including any opto-couplers or similar devices. Things tend to fail or not work when the voltage is reduced too much. If you do it, use a meter to measure the voltage used for the relays and other electronics. There are limits on those devices.
Reducing the bias voltage magnitude will get closer to the EL34 bias region. That is usually -39VDC where as the 6L6 bias is roughly -69V or at -51V in spongy mode. Then again, the plate voltage will also be dropping resulting in a change in load lines of each triode and power tube. To what extent will the reduction in AC voltage place the tubes in an unusable state? When will the heaters begin to drop resulting in less thermal energy to emit electrons?
I would recommend trying this with an amp that has no complex switching components or relays. Something made with peg board and hand wired as they made them that way in the early days. No sensitive electronic components such as JFETS, transistors and such, including any opto-couplers or similar devices. Things tend to fail or not work when the voltage is reduced too much. If you do it, use a meter to measure the voltage used for the relays and other electronics. There are limits on those devices.