phyrexia
Well-known member
I'm not counting 6V6 6L6 6L6 6V6 and 6L6 6V6 6V6 6L6 as different combinations but they will likely yield different tones because of the differences in 10w mode and 45w mode. So 13 legitimate combinations I guess.
Also, one caveat, you gotta spend money on octal->9 pin adapters (yellowjackets). If you've just dropped $2k on a Mark V, though, I don't reallly think it could be a problem to spend $100.
Like Birmingham's wonderful mayor said when he raised our sales tax to 10%, "If a penny's going to break you, you're already broke anyway." :lol:
:evil: Ahem. 
And before you ask me about 2x6L6+2xEL34, i work for a dealer, asked my rep and received confirmation that it's a Go, a Green Light, Possible to Use Two Ee Ell Thirty Fours in the outer sockets and Two Six Ell Sixes in the Inner sockets, just like previous Simul-Class amps. The only thing that will happen in 6L6 mode as opposed to EL34 mode is the bias of tubes will change, so EL34s in outer sockets in 6L6 mode will be biased cold (which happens in all Simul-Class amps when you do that anyway).
So:
Think about this:
2x6V6 in 10w mode on CH1 Tweed, two EL84s in 45w (so ~ 18 watts?) tube rectified in CH2 Crunch, and all four tubes in CH3 IIC+!!!! (Oh Yes, my Mini-Mark Lives!)
Or 2x6V6+2x6L6 for CH1 Fat, 2x6L6 CH2 Mark I, 2x6V6s CH3 Mark IV.
Or 2xEL84+2xEL34 CH1 Clean, 2xEL34 Crunch, 2xEL84 Mark IIC+
Or 4xEL34 Ch1 Clean, 4xEL34 Ch2 Crunch, 4xEL34 Ch3 IIC+ if you're rabies.
The only thing you can't do is EL34s and 6V6s because the bias select 'must' be in the 6L6 position for 6V6s. (I bet if you didn't care about frying your 6V6s you could do this. Or you could try using the JJ 6V6s which are apparently more like 6L6s than 6V6s.)
This is also not to mention 6CA7,KT*, or other alternate tube types which can be substituted.
So I'm going to have to buy more tubes in a couple weeks! :lol:

I keep telling myself I won't buy any more amps after this one
Also, one caveat, you gotta spend money on octal->9 pin adapters (yellowjackets). If you've just dropped $2k on a Mark V, though, I don't reallly think it could be a problem to spend $100.
And before you ask me about 2x6L6+2xEL34, i work for a dealer, asked my rep and received confirmation that it's a Go, a Green Light, Possible to Use Two Ee Ell Thirty Fours in the outer sockets and Two Six Ell Sixes in the Inner sockets, just like previous Simul-Class amps. The only thing that will happen in 6L6 mode as opposed to EL34 mode is the bias of tubes will change, so EL34s in outer sockets in 6L6 mode will be biased cold (which happens in all Simul-Class amps when you do that anyway).
So:
- 1. 4x6L6
2. 4xEL34
3. 2xEL34 + 2x6L6
4. 4x6V6 (variac power)
5. 2x6V6 + 2x6L6 (variac power) (doesn't mention this in the manual/online description but theoretically it should be possible)
6. 2xEL84 + 2x6L6 (yellowjackets)
7. 2xEL84 + 2xEL34 (yellowjackets. this one would be really neat I am betting.)
8. 2xEL84 + 2x6V6 (yellowjackets, variac power. this one also I am looking forward to trying.)
9. 4xEL84 (yellowjackets)
Think about this:
2x6V6 in 10w mode on CH1 Tweed, two EL84s in 45w (so ~ 18 watts?) tube rectified in CH2 Crunch, and all four tubes in CH3 IIC+!!!! (Oh Yes, my Mini-Mark Lives!)
Or 2x6V6+2x6L6 for CH1 Fat, 2x6L6 CH2 Mark I, 2x6V6s CH3 Mark IV.
Or 2xEL84+2xEL34 CH1 Clean, 2xEL34 Crunch, 2xEL84 Mark IIC+
Or 4xEL34 Ch1 Clean, 4xEL34 Ch2 Crunch, 4xEL34 Ch3 IIC+ if you're rabies.
The only thing you can't do is EL34s and 6V6s because the bias select 'must' be in the 6L6 position for 6V6s. (I bet if you didn't care about frying your 6V6s you could do this. Or you could try using the JJ 6V6s which are apparently more like 6L6s than 6V6s.)
This is also not to mention 6CA7,KT*, or other alternate tube types which can be substituted.
So I'm going to have to buy more tubes in a couple weeks! :lol:
I keep telling myself I won't buy any more amps after this one