Shep
Well-known member
Mk IV B.
twinky5959 said:Well...... I re-valved, and thinking that I should go with all 6l6's, the amp sounds better but.... It's now very noisy. I went with all mesa tubes because i work at that evil corporation.... (GC) So wondering now if maybe it needs a re-cap.... Anyone have any experience with a really old mark iv, and re-capping? Now before you guys say i need to turn knobs more, let me mention to straightouttahell, I did have the amp in that setting already, it sounded the best to my ears. I play metal and like to use the geq for solo boosting. The flub is now gone, but now this noise is really bad. I am running my gain at 8 or so and drive at 4-5. drive pulled gain and presence not pulled. I know the manual talks of feedback and what not, but this is not the case, I'm using a ns-2 gate so the guitar is quiet, the amp is loud while the gates closed. I went with spax7's in v1 and v3, 12ax7's in v2 and v5 and the at7 in v4. I tried the split power section, and think maybe all 6l6's will help my quest for better low end. Could the spax7 in v3 cause this excess noise? Thanks.
Preamp tubes typically get noisy, like static, swishing or microphonic, meaning a low feedback sound. Power tubes can get noisy too, but they typically lose volume or highs and lows when they're done.Waspination said:So im new to these boards. Just got my mark IV yesterday! Awesome amp! Im new with tubes though so i have some questions. How can i know if my tubes... or a tube is goin bad? Will i for sure know from the sound? I have a spongy sound in the lead channel that i didnt have before... but mabe i just hit the bass up too much. Thought it could be a preamp tube maybe.
Theres no drop in volume... cuz im reading thats a good sign.
NO - they must go in the way indicated. When I remove a preamp, I note where the space between prongs is, like on the face of a clock...makes reinstalling them easier. Don't force preamp tubes as it's easy to bend the prongs or maybe crack the glass. Prongs can be straightened. Power tubes have a center stem with a small protrusion on one side of stem. This must line up with the keyway in the tube socket. These things can be broken. The tube can still be used, but you MUST MUST MUST reposition the power tube properly or very bad things can happen. I also use the clock face method when removing power tubes. When I have trouble replacing a tube, I remove another one and note the position of the space between prongs (preamp) or keyway (power tube).Waspination said:ALSO im pretty lost on what the difference in slots for tubes makes. I have the manual... but still gotta finish it, its probably in there. There is also numbers on the tubes where they plug in by the prongs... whats that all about, can you turn them and plug them in differently?
muramasa said:well mine is in the 10500 range and it was made in March 2001^
I'm having some issues with my Mark IV. I was getting some random crackling every now and then so I replaced all the tubes but I still the the same intermittent noise. It still makes the noise when all the volumes are at 0 and there is no guitar cable plugged in. I used some deoxit on the tube pin, it seemed to work for about an hour and then it came back. I can't hear it when I play but when I stop playing i can hear it faintly. I think it could be something internal or am I just being paranoid
Miiks said:Hey, I have a problem with my IV. When i'm using Rhy1 or Rhy2, the volume suddenly goes down, and after a while it comes back. On Rhy2 there is also some king of crackling. The Lead channel works fine. Could it be something with the tubes?
prm2770 said:Here you go milin_im
http://mesaboogie.com/manuals/Mark%204.pdf
emperor_black said:yeah, I almost bought an amp head without a footswitch. Man, I would be kicking myself so hard for doing so...
anyways, you can use the mini amp switcher http://www.rjmmusic.com/miniampgizmo.php or something which is a tiny midi unit with relay switches. then you can get a midi foot controller for cheap and switch channels. Or you can go the route I believe and you can get a footswitch.
Careful buying from Voodoo; I've read horror stories here about him not shipping his stuff.Waspination said:emperor_black said:yeah, I almost bought an amp head without a footswitch. Man, I would be kicking myself so hard for doing so...
anyways, you can use the mini amp switcher http://www.rjmmusic.com/miniampgizmo.php or something which is a tiny midi unit with relay switches. then you can get a midi foot controller for cheap and switch channels. Or you can go the route I believe and you can get a footswitch.
the mini amp switcher is more money than the mesa footswitch so no on that. the vodoo is something i havent seen before so im checking that out thx. I just need to switch channels so 3 buttons is enough.
dodger916 said:Careful buying from Voodoo; I've read horror stories here about him not shipping his stuff.Waspination said:emperor_black said:yeah, I almost bought an amp head without a footswitch. Man, I would be kicking myself so hard for doing so...
anyways, you can use the mini amp switcher http://www.rjmmusic.com/miniampgizmo.php or something which is a tiny midi unit with relay switches. then you can get a midi foot controller for cheap and switch channels. Or you can go the route I believe and you can get a footswitch.
the mini amp switcher is more money than the mesa footswitch so no on that. the vodoo is something i havent seen before so im checking that out thx. I just need to switch channels so 3 buttons is enough.
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