Short Bottle 6L6 + Dual Recto = Amazing Tone

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Finally got the chance to throw a new set of Winged C tubes in my DR today, and I have to say thanks for the advice Fluff, definately notice the difference, the tone is great (less sterile) and full sounding.

Let them warm up a good 10 minutes or so on standby, and ran them at low levels for an hour, but even at low output levels the sound has a bit more fullness to it, actually kinda pleasing to play at bedroom levels for a change, can't wait to blast it at a gig on Friday night! :twisted:
 
droptrd said:
hey fluff, could you compare the short bottle to the =C=?

Sure. I found the Winged C's to be a bit harsh in the highs while having a bottom end that was good but could easily get out of control. All around good tube though, as it has good detail and a good feel, but I was personally looking for a more 'creamy' tone.

The short bottle I found to be much tighter in the low end, and has less highs than the Winged C but it makes up for it with really good note definition and a general full-bodied sound. Any single frequency is not boosted or over powering.

Hope that helps.
 
cradlefish said:
fluff191 said:
I have intentionally avoided the NOS thing only because if one did fail and it was the proverbial lynch pin of my tone, I would be toast. Until I found another one. So i only tend to buy the best quality new production tubes.

cradlefish said:
I haven't found many tubes that sound or last as long as the Winged C. Do you know any info about hte 6l6wgc-str tube?

And as far as I know, the GE-style 6L6 was originally used in the old Fender combo amps for big warm clean guitar tones.
Everyone goes after the RCA Blackplate-style 6L6's but man I am not so sure about those anymore.

Don't let that bother you. If you get them on ebay from somebody reputable. You'll have a good long lasting tube, enjoy some of the little things in life that would make you and your ears happier. That's where I get all my tubes. I don't bother with Eurotubes or Dougs tubes. They are solid dealers but you'll find better deals on ebay if you do a little homework.


Yep. That's where I've bought all my ANOS tubes (I buy used ones that test good instead of new....much cheaper).
 
Fluff: Can you give more evidence to your claims that newer Mesa tubes are merely rated for long life and nothing more? I get that this is merely your opinion, but I am still interested in how you came to such conclusions.
 
BostonRedSox said:
Fluff: Can you give more evidence to your claims that newer Mesa tubes are merely rated for long life and nothing more? I get that this is merely your opinion, but I am still interested in how you came to such conclusions.

Well I was just basing my opinion (and somewhat fact) on the fact that the fixed bias Mesa amps take Mesa tubes, and Mesa intentionally puts tubes in their amps that bias very cold to extend life. They always have. The hottest bias rating I got out of my Recto when it was stock was 20ma for a 6L6!! Which is why I am not a huge fan of stock Mesa tubes in stock applications.

Hope that helps. I am by no means a tube expert I should point out though :lol:
 
Fluff: I don't discount what you are saying, but I just can't find anywhere Mesa stating that the cold bias, was also helped by the tubes. I know that Mesa does incorporate a fixed bias on all of their amps, which in return means the amps run colder than other amps that run to a specific tubes spec. Where did you get that information about Mesa's tubes, themselves, biasing very cold?
 
BostonRedSox said:
Where did you get that information about Mesa's tubes, themselves, biasing very cold?

By measuring the bias! Mesa among MANY other amp companies do this. Its a very common thing.
 
fluff191 said:
BostonRedSox said:
Where did you get that information about Mesa's tubes, themselves, biasing very cold?

By measuring the bias! Mesa among MANY other amp companies do this. Its a very common thing.

+1. Ask ANY vendor to send you a Mesa Rated set of 6L6GC's and you'll get tubes that draw in the low 20mA's. Throw in a set of GT #6 or #7 and you'll get in the low to mid 30mA range.

Dom
 
Sorry if a dumb question, but I'm assuming that I don't need to worry the bias if I wanted to try out these tubes - should be just plug and play, right? Just making sure b/c I know Boogie is not like other amp manufacturers w.r.t non-Mesa tubes.
 
Resonant Alien said:
Sorry if a dumb question, but I'm assuming that I don't need to worry the bias if I wanted to try out these tubes - should be just plug and play, right? Just making sure b/c I know Boogie is not like other amp manufacturers w.r.t non-Mesa tubes.

If you do want to try them, just tell the store (usually in the notes section) what amp they will be going into. They will send you the properly rated tubes. Then yes after that its just plug and play.
 
That is what I did recently, ordered 'em and then rang later and mentioned they were for a Mesa, and they said it is no problem, they came with 25/2.4 or somethin like that on the box, I presume this means 25mA @ test bench voltage...?

Anyway they work great, and the sound is a bit fuller than the stock tubes, and a bit more driven.
 
Thanks! I had the TAD WGC short bottles in an Egnater amp previously, and really liked them in that amp - I hadn't considered putting them in my DR, but now I def. am.
 
volatileNoise said:
That is what I did recently, ordered 'em and then rang later and mentioned they were for a Mesa, and they said it is no problem, they came with 25/2.4 or somethin like that on the box, I presume this means 25mA @ test bench voltage...?

Anyway they work great, and the sound is a bit fuller than the stock tubes, and a bit more driven.


I wouldn't take any numbers on the box to mean anything significant. It's probably just how they match tubes, and that might not be by current draw (I've forgotten the correct term for it). Current draw is specifically based on voltage, so what you're seeing is probably just a tester reading.
 
mikey383 said:
I wouldn't take any numbers on the box to mean anything significant. It's probably just how they match tubes, and that might not be by current draw (I've forgotten the correct term for it). Current draw is specifically based on voltage, so what you're seeing is probably just a tester reading.

Cool, yeah wasn't sure. Thanks for the info.
 

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