Retubing a TriAxis a 2:90

[beelzibub]

I'm a metal player looking for high gain without muddyness or flub. Example guitar tones I like can be heard from Lamb of God, In Flames, and Pantera. I also play other music, but I figure if I can create the high gain tone I like I can just dial it down to get a lighter or clean sound. I'd like some recommendations for both my Triaxis as well as the power and preamp tubes in the 2:90. Currently my 2:90 has a full set of JJ's, and my Triaxis had a full set of high gain JJ's. I've recently started buying NOS tubes and have done many tube rolling sessions, but just can't seem to find the winning combination. I've read through this thread and have begun searching for some of the tubes, but I'm looking for any other thoughts.

For the volume/feel fluctuations I've tried changing the patch cords, all tubes other than the 2:90's because they are a new set of JJ's that are supposedly tested, and it seems that the issue isn't isolated to one side. I'll be changing the V1 2:90 12AX7 like you suggested next! I've heard from a few sources now that the JJ power tubes are good, but the preamp tubes are kinda sketchy.

Thanks for your help so far Timbre Wolf! I've got a TC Electronic G-Force coming in tomorrow to swap for my G-Major so I'm crossing my fingers that my Triaxis is in a good mood then!

 

[Timbre Wolf]

For the volume/feel fluctuations I've tried changing the patch cords, all tubes other than the 2:90's because they are a new set of JJ's that are supposedly tested, and it seems that the issue isn't isolated to one side. I'll be changing the V1 2:90 12AX7 like you suggested next! I've heard from a few sources now that the JJ power tubes are good, but the preamp tubes are kinda sketchy.

JJ tubes are generally reliable, but they've had their periods of unreliability. No matter what, any tube can fail, so checking out that V1 will be a good start. Go backwards from there, if need be (hopefully not needed).

Good luck with the G-Force! Hope you get a fair chance at playing through it.

- Thom

 

[beelzibub]

I'm about to order up a Mullard CV4024 for the V2 spot, what should I get for the 2:90 preamp tubes? Would I be better off putting a 12AT7 or 12AU7 into the V1 on the 2:90? I'm also looking for the RCA black plate 5751 3-mica, RCA black plate 12BZ7, and Mullard long plate halo getter ECC83 tubes recommended earlier in this thread. I already have a few Raytheon long black plates as well as some Mullard ECC83's but theyre short plates.

 

[Timbre Wolf]

I'm about to order up a Mullard CV4024 for the V2 spot, what should I get for the 2:90 preamp tubes? Would I be better off putting a 12AT7 or 12AU7 into the V1 on the 2:90? I'm also looking for the RCA black plate 5751 3-mica, RCA black plate 12BZ7, and Mullard long plate halo getter ECC83 tubes recommended earlier in this thread. I already have a few Raytheon long black plates as well as some Mullard ECC83's but theyre short plates.

For the 2:90, V1, I would not recommend a 12AT7 or 12AU7 - especially not the 12AU7. You want to keep your gain up, so I'd recommend a good, clear 12AX7. If it were me, I'd use one of those Raytheon black-plates in V1, due to their exceptional clarity, but early-breakup. But if that Raytheon is too bright for you, the short-plate Mullard will thicken things up (at the expense of the pristine Raytheon clarity).

As for the long-plate Mullard 12AX7... though I still think it supreme in the Triaxis V4, I can't recommend you pay the obscene price that they are usually sold for, these days. When I originally wrote that Triaxis treatise, you could still get used (but test new) for $45 each, from a dealer. Those days are gone.

Some recommended tubes instead of the l-p Mullard include the original '50s long-plate Tung-Sol, or early-'50s GE long gray-plate 12AX7. The Tung-Sol will be thinner character than the Mullard, but just as fine clarity. The GE would be thicker character than the Tung-Sol (and a little thicker than the Mullard), but with a wee bit less clarity. Both of those are excellent choices for the Triaxis V4, and are still (unbelievably) affordable.

- Thom

 

[beelzibub]

Anyone tried the RCA silver plate 12BZ7? How does it compare to the black plate?

 

[Timbre Wolf]

Anyone tried the RCA silver plate 12BZ7? How does it compare to the black plate?

I've never seen a silver-plate 12BZ7. Is it a gray-plate, perhaps?

Either way, I have only stuck with black-plate 12BZ7. By the way, if you look closely at the construction and labeling of 12BZ7s, it becomes very difficult to figure out which companies (or company) actually fabricated them. I have GE, RCA, Sylvania, CBS, Zenith, Hytron, Delco, DuMont, Micro, Raytheon, Hytron, and Philco labeled 12BZ7s, but there only seem to be two genuine manufacturers, with only 3 or 4 changes of internal designs. Sonically, they're all about the same. This is from someone (me) who routinely splits sonic hairs (according to others), when discussing tube characteristics.

- Thom

 

[beelzibub]

Alright, I've got a few 12BZ7's on the way. A few black plates as well as some gray plates. I also found an RCA 5751WA black plate w/halo getter but only 2 mica plates. Anyone tried this tube before? I know the 3 mica ones are supposed to be great, but I'm curious how this would compare. I plan on trying a Raytheon 12AX7 in the 2:90 V1 spot like Thom recommended, but what should I do for V2 & V3?

 

[Timbre Wolf]

what should I do for V2 & V3?

Those are the phase-inverters, are they not? I have enjoyed Mullard CV4024/12AT7WA in my 20/20 PI positions, but don't know if you'd want to go with lower-mu tubes in your 2:90. I might rather recommend a hotter 12AX7 there. In fact if any of those 12BZ7 are microphonic, you might wish to try them as phase-inverters - that'd probably be the best use for a microphonic 12BZ7.

- T

 

[Spoons]

WOW, lots of great Triaxis retubing information here!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have got to try some of these recommendations on my Triaxis. I really dislike the tone of my LD1 modes, they are just not for me. Right now, I just want to change the LD1 tones with as little effect on the other channels as possible and not break the bank with a tube experiment.

Where is a really good reputable place to purchase tubes either online or over the phone? Somewhere in the mid-west would be preferable but not absolutely necessary.

 

[Timbre Wolf]

WOW, lots of great Triaxis retubing information here!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have got to try some of these recommendations on my Triaxis. I really dislike the tone of my LD1 modes, they are just not for me. Right now, I just want to change the LD1 tones with as little effect on the other channels as possible and not break the bank with a tube experiment.

Where is a really good reputable place to purchase tubes either online or over the phone? Somewhere in the mid-west would be preferable but not absolutely necessary.

You're going to want to change only the V1 position (closest to the guitar input), then. Do a search here for tube vendor recommendations. I recall at least one thread where people made recommendations, and I remember providing links in my post.

- Thom

 

[Spoons]

You're going to want to change only the V1 position (closest to the guitar input), then. Do a search here for tube vendor recommendations. I recall at least one thread where people made recommendations, and I remember providing links in my post.

- Thom

Thanks for all the information!!!!

I just paid a visit to someones recommended TubeDepot site LINK and checked out the tubes and there are choices under the tubes like:

Hi-Gain
Matched
Balanced Triodes
Matched-Balanced-Triodes
Low Noise and Microphonics

I am completely new to purchasing tubes and I don't understand all the terminology yet, I'm drowning in information, LOL! I understand that the V1 is only used for the LD1 channel and if I am understanding all this correctly then if I want to get rid of that annoying little bit of "buzz" in the LD2 channels then I have to change the V2 tube also - Is that correct?

Right now I am willing to spend up to $150 to replace both V1 and V2 and $100 if only replacing V1. I just do not know what tubes will actually accomplish something in a positive way. Any specific suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated, even send me to a different website, whatever.

 

[Timbre Wolf]

if I want to get rid of that annoying little bit of "buzz" in the LD2 channels then I have to change the V2 tube also - Is that correct?

You don't necessarily have to change out V2. You said you like the other modes just fine, and a change in V2 would bring about a change in all modes. Try changing V1 first, then re-evaluate.

What tube do you have in V1? And in V2? What tube(s) do you want to buy? I can recommend a seller or two, if you've got specific tube in mind.

Remember, in making your tube purchase, you'll probably want to have at least one backup tube to use, once you've found your favorite combination. Be sure to budget for that, and spend wisely.

- T

 

[Spoons]

if I want to get rid of that annoying little bit of "buzz" in the LD2 channels then I have to change the V2 tube also - Is that correct?

You don't necessarily have to change out V2. You said you like the other modes just fine, and a change in V2 would bring about a change in all modes. Try changing V1 first, then re-evaluate.

What tube do you have in V1? And in V2? What tube(s) do you want to buy? I can recommend a seller or two, if you've got specific tube in mind.

Remember, in making your tube purchase, you'll probably want to have at least one backup tube to use, once you've found your favorite combination. Be sure to budget for that, and spend wisely.

- T

Good suggestions, just V1 it is. This initial $$ output that is budgeted is just for experimenting, I'll purchase what ever extra tubes are needed for backups later that cost is not relevant right now. I have no idea what tubes are in the Triaxis, I requested it to be retubed at the factory before I purchased it last year - it had been at the dealer for a few years and was still new and under full warranty. I suppose they put what ever stock tubes they currently use in it.

What tubes do I want to buy, I have absolutely no idea - LOL, I just want the LD1 modes - including the recto LD1 Red to be dramatically different than what they currently are. An "ultimate" goal would be to steer it more towards a Plexi type of tone, so what ever would send me in that general direction.

 

[Timbre Wolf]

What tubes do I want to buy, I have absolutely no idea - LOL, I just want the LD1 modes - including the recto LD1 Red to be dramatically different than what they currently are. An "ultimate" goal would be to steer it more towards a Plexi type of tone, so what ever would send me in that general direction.

In addition to the descriptions I've put out earlier in this thread, I've recently posted on my various amps, and their V1 tubes, at The Gear Page. Check this out. I use more relative tube character (tone,feel, etc.) terms, rather than saying one tube or another will get you closer to a "Plexi" tone. Hope it helps some.

- T

 

[Spoons]

What tubes do I want to buy, I have absolutely no idea - LOL, I just want the LD1 modes - including the recto LD1 Red to be dramatically different than what they currently are. An "ultimate" goal would be to steer it more towards a Plexi type of tone, so what ever would send me in that general direction.

In addition to the descriptions I've put out earlier in this thread, I've recently posted on my various amps, and their V1 tubes, at The Gear Page. Check this out. I use more relative tube character (tone,feel, etc.) terms, rather than saying one tube or another will get you closer to a "Plexi" tone. Hope it helps some.

- T

Thanks.
Any personal recommendations on where to get the Sylvania '56 Short Black-Plate 12AX7 and the RCA '50s Black-Plate/Square-Getter 12AT7 tubes?
Spoons

 

[Timbre Wolf]

Any personal recommendations on where to get the Sylvania '56 Short Black-Plate 12AX7 and the RCA '50s Black-Plate/Square-Getter 12AT7 tubes?
Spoons

You can ask your trusted NOS tube dealer - they often have things in stock that are not listed on their Web pages. But, for the rare Sylvania short black-plate 12AX7, I'd recommend eBay; they're easier to locate there than with dealers, in my experience. The RCA black-plate 12AT7 is also commonly available on eBay, and usually very affordable. Make sure they test good, and best of luck in bidding!

- T

 

[Spoons]

Any personal recommendations on where to get the Sylvania '56 Short Black-Plate 12AX7 and the RCA '50s Black-Plate/Square-Getter 12AT7 tubes?
Spoons

You can ask your trusted NOS tube dealer - they often have things in stock that are not listed on their Web pages. But, for the rare Sylvania short black-plate 12AX7, I'd recommend eBay; they're easier to locate there than with dealers, in my experience. The RCA black-plate 12AT7 is also commonly available on eBay, and usually very affordable. Make sure they test good, and best of luck in bidding!

- T

This just keep getting more and more detailed...

"Make sure they test good...", now that is completely out of my knowledge base! I don't have a trusted NOS tube dealer, that's why I am asking for recommendations. I have never purchased and installed a tube other than a new OEM tube sent directly from the manufacturer. Is there a website that can inform me of testing procedures and tube specs?

 

[Timbre Wolf]

"Make sure they test good...", now that is completely out of my knowledge base! I don't have a trusted NOS tube dealer, that's why I am asking for recommendations. I have never purchased and installed a tube other than a new OEM tube sent directly from the manufacturer. Is there a website that can inform me of testing procedures and tube specs?

Sorry to drop you in the deep end... On Ebay, tube test results are often provided, with values stated for what constitutes "new" and what constitutes "good" (i.e. test values below that constitute "bad") on the particular tester used. If new transconductance values are not stated, you can go by the rule of thumb that the "new" value is 1.5 times the cutoff of the good/bad test value. If no values are shown, you can contact sellers and ask for the test values. Also ask about testing for microphonics, and bid accordingly (or not at all) if unsatisfactory answers are given.

A trusted tube seller will provide all this information to you, and won't mess you around with poor-testing tubes. I've had great dealings with Tubemonger, Jim McShane, Doug's Tubes, Brent Jesse (Audiotubes.com), Michael Marx/SND Tubes, Upscale Audio, The Tube Store, and Watford Valves, and can recommend each, with favorites first. I will not comment on others I have dealt with, such as KCA NOS Tubes, and Tejas Tubes.

- T

 

[Spoons]

"Make sure they test good...", now that is completely out of my knowledge base! I don't have a trusted NOS tube dealer, that's why I am asking for recommendations. I have never purchased and installed a tube other than a new OEM tube sent directly from the manufacturer. Is there a website that can inform me of testing procedures and tube specs?

Sorry to drop you in the deep end... On Ebay, tube test results are often provided, with values stated for what constitutes "new" and what constitutes "good" (i.e. test values below that constitute "bad") on the particular tester used. If new transconductance values are not stated, you can go by the rule of thumb that the "new" value is 1.5 times the cutoff of the good/bad test value. If no values are shown, you can contact sellers and ask for the test values. Also ask about testing for microphonics, and bid accordingly (or not at all) if unsatisfactory answers are given.

A trusted tube seller will provide all this information to you, and won't mess you around with poor-testing tubes. I've had great dealings with Tubemonger, Jim McShane, Doug's Tubes, Brent Jesse (Audiotubes.com), Michael Marx/SND Tubes, Upscale Audio, The Tube Store, and Watford Valves, and can recommend each, with favorites first. I will not comment on others I have dealt with, such as KCA NOS Tubes, and Tejas Tubes.

- T

That helps a bunch, I think I can at least float on my own now.
Thanks

 

[Spoons]

Well, I ordered some tubes to experiment with my Triaxis. Now don't laugh at me too much with these next questions, I am a tube virgin.

I'm kinda getting the idea that you can plug any tube you want into any preamp socket, as long as they have the same 12AX7 type of pin base, without screwing up your preamp, is that correct? I'm sure some tubes in some spots may sound like crap, but they won't hurt the preamp will they? I certainly don't want my tube switching experiment to fry something in my Triaxis.