question about retubing

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theyoshster

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From readin through the board it seems as if everyone re-tubes their amp by themselves. I am looking forward to getting a dual recto this week and when i have to retube it id like to be on top of the game. Is it as easy as buying the tubes, pulling the old ones out, and putting the new ones in? Thanks in advance.
 
the preamp tubes are as easy as take potatoes in your garden, all you must to do is to fitted the correct position of the tube into the socket.
The power tubes are a bit difficult, read the forum and make questions
 
Some tips for power tubes:

Don't touch the glass, use something like a tshirt to handle the tubes.

When you take out a power tube, there are two clasps on it (DR anyway). It will be logical which way these move (down) to release the grasp on the bottom of the tube. Wiggle the tube a little bit left and right as you pull up, it should come EASILY, do not force it.

After the tubes are out, line up the pin arrangement by either looking directly into it or setting the new tube on top of the socket and SLOWLY moving it in a circle until you feel the socket 'accept' it. Do NOT push down or force it, it will be a natural transition. As before, wiggle the tube left and right a little bit as you push the tube into its socket. Make sure the tubes are sitting 'straight' up, sometimes they may lean a bit either way.

Bottom line, you don't have to force anything, take care not to.

CHECK your tube bias before powering the amp back on. If you've changed power tube types apply the proper switch.

This may not be 'expert' advice but I've retubed my Dual Rec twice with this and a few Fender/Rivera amps back when I owned them.
 
wolfgang6505 said:
Don't touch the glass, use something like a tshirt to handle the tubes

Why?
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I guess that's more of a precaution if they were used and are hot, I've heard that you shouldn't touch them period but I've really found nothing in practice that shows this is valid...
 
It is the same as with halogen car bulbs. Your sweat reacts with glass when hot. The result is, that the light is not clear a s it was as new. I don't think this is a real problem with tubes.
 
The only reason not to touch the glass is, because they can be extremely hot after using, that's why :)

Follow also my thread in the tubes forum, for I have also question about retubing.
 
this may not apply, but with dealing with stage lighting, you literally CANT touch the bulbs because the oils in your fingers will eventually boil and make that part of the glass expand into an anyrism looking thing and eventually break. i dont think tubes get this hot and i dont think finger oils will have any effect on the glass so i guess not physically touching the tubes really only applies to when they are hot.
 
vulture2600 said:
this may not apply, but with dealing with stage lighting, you literally CANT touch the bulbs because the oils in your fingers will eventually boil and make that part of the glass expand into an anyrism looking thing and eventually break. i dont think tubes get this hot and i dont think finger oils will have any effect on the glass so i guess not physically touching the tubes really only applies to when they are hot.


that's true and you can't also touch halogen lamps, but I don't believe this is the case with tubes used in guitar amplifiers, evenso it is a total different technology.
 
Platypus said:
CHECK your tube bias before powering the amp back on. If you've changed power tube types apply the proper switch.

Dumb Question. HOW? I have an F-50 and put some Ruby 6L6 I had laying around because one the Mesa tubes started redplating (Used amp).

I'd like to check the amp and make sure these tubes are drawing a normal mA. On my MTS amps it's dead easy, just stick your DMM into the holes set to DC-Volts and that's it.

Where are the check points on mesa amps? Specifically the F-50?
 
Koprofag said:
Just a heads up - The metal rings may look as if they would lock the tubes in place, having to be bent outwards to release the tube, but that is not the case and you don't need to touch them at all.

time_to_rectify.jpg

Ok, what is their function? Just to help keep the tubes in place during transport?
 
yes during transport and playing,,,a lot of vibration especially in a combo.. they also hang down in the combos. I find they are very resilient. Maybe a bit uncommon but I find if I bend them towards the chassis it makes it much easier to remove the tubes.. then push them back to a tighter fitting before replacing with new tubes..
 
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