Oh no I hope I did not ruin my Mark V with new tubes

[sean106alcon]

So as you might have seen in previous threads it feedbacks at band volumes and probably a preamp tube issue (as I fiddled with masters and overall volumes and still screaming feedback)

So I changed all the Preamp tubes to:

3 Penta's
2 Ruby's
1 Tung-sol
and 1 Sovtek

I also got a EH 5U4GB and 4 Tung-sol EL 34's
Made sure I set the switch to EL 34. Turned it on and had a warning light and the first tube to the right when looking at the back was not lighting up.

So I then went and put back the Mesa 6l6's and now...still the furtherst to the right tube does not light up....the foot switch does not work and when you plug it in the back you here a static type sound.....no sound.....and I even tried changing the channels manually just to see if would change channels but nothing just had CH1 lit up and still no sound.

WTF!!!!!??!? So tomorrow I am going to put back in all the Mesa Preamps and power amp tubes and see if it at least goes back to normal. I made sure I installed the preamps very delicate and properly in. So I am at a loss. Anyone have this issue? Is my amp damaged now? i ask that because the one power tube whether it is a EL34 in EL34 mode or the 6l6 in 6l6 mode does not light up at all. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

 

[Anonymous]

sorry to hear about your problem!!!!!!

I think that putting everything back to stock is a good start... after all the stock tubes are in including the rectifier, i would check the fuse!!!!!

if everything goes back to normal, i would suggest to replace the power tubes first.... if the problem persist; i would put the stock power tubes back and start one at the time replacing the preamps.

one more thing: just remember that the power tubes are wire YXXY

good luck and take your time troubleshooting :wink:

 

[sean106alcon]

sorry to hear about your problem!!!!!!

I think that putting everything back to stock is a good start... after all the stock tubes are in including the rectifier, i would check the fuse!!!!!

if everything goes back to normal, i would suggest to replace the power tubes first.... if the problem persist; i would put the stock power tubes back and start one at the time replacing the preamps.

one more thing: just remember that the power tubes are wire YXXY

good luck and take your time troubleshooting :wink:

Thanks man. What do you mean my YXXY? When looking at the back of the head is not the rectifier tube the last on the left and then the EL34's or 6l6's just go in any position from left to right after the rectifier position? Sorry for my noobness. thanks in advance.

 

[magh8]

where did you get the tubes???

 

[sean106alcon]

Well sure enough you were right I had the recto tube in the wrong spot. It was late last night and a little dark so I messed up. I I placed back all the power amp tubes and recto tube in their proper spots and then sure enough as soon as I turned it on. I blew the fuse. So I gotta get a new fuse (gonna get a few as I trouble shoot them)

Also when you mention the YXXY thing. If I get it to work and pre-amp tubes are fine......if I choose to place the Tung sol EL 34's? How do you know which one is the YXXY placement of the EL34's?

Here are the EL 34's and their Plate Current and transduction. Just sucks as I popped them back out and when I look at the EL34's tubes themselves they all look the same and have the same markings and everything. uggggh Thanks guys.

 

[sean106alcon]

where did you get the tubes???

www.dougstubes.com I always buy my tubes from him and so do many others. He also lives near me so I picked them up last night.

 

[magh8]

where did you get the tubes???

http://www.dougstubes.com I always buy my tubes from him and so do many others. He also lives near me so I picked them up last night.

i have bought alot of tubes from doug as well.i only had one problem with him that wasn't that much of a problem...

I bought a quad of tubes for my old powerball and i couldn't get them biased where i wanted them they were in range but cold.

I called him and told him the problem so he says to me..."you could always just have a resistor swapped to give you more of a bias range?"

i tell him why would i want to do that i would just prefer another set that will bias a bit hotter and then tells me that it is hard to get tubes in that range cause of companys like mesa buying them all up to relable them. lol

btw my e34l's are matched at 32 and the kt 77's at 29.9

 

[sean106alcon]

So I just got a bunch of fuses just in case. So before I start putting all the pre-amp tubes back.....do think it is more likely the fuse blew because of the Power section tubes and not all the new pre-amp tubes I put in? Thanks.

Gonna take out those 6l6's and make sure the EH rectifier tube is in the right spot and then the EL34's but still since the boxes show different currents etc. I am not sure which slots to put them in?

 

[magh8]

when i was dealing with my splawn i was told to place the tubes like so (example)V1-35/V2-34/V3-34/V4-35...

 

[sean106alcon]

Ok so I put in the El 34's and a new fuse. Also the EH rectifier cab. Then the foot switch came back on and no fuse blowing. have the switch set to EL 34 but the red caution light came on so I turned right off after I saw it. So now I don't what the heck. Is the power amp tube or the pre amp tubes. What does the caution light mean? the manual I cannot find any info on what it means. I am assuming of course it has to do with the tubes. Just not sure if it means the power amp tubes or preamp tubes. I think I need to go back and check all the preamp tubes and make sure they are totally in place and fully secured in which I am sure they are as I was very careful.

The order I did was
V1Tung-sol 12AX7
V2 Penta 12AX7
V3Penta 12AX7
V4 Penta 12AX7
V5 Ruby 12AX7
V6 Ruby 12AX7
V7 Sovtek 12AX7

Does that sound right?

 

[magh8]

Ok so I put in the El 34's and a new fuse. Also the EH rectifier cab. Then the foot switch came back on and no fuse blowing. have the switch set to EL 34 but the red caution light came on so I turned right off after I saw it. So now I don't what the heck. Is the power amp tube or the pre amp tubes. What does the caution light mean? the manual I cannot find any info on what it means. I am assuming of course it has to do with the tubes. Just not sure if it means the power amp tubes or preamp tubes. I think I need to go back and check all the preamp tubes and make sure they are totally in place and fully secured in which I am sure they are as I was very careful.

The order I did was
V1Tung-sol 12AX7
V2 Penta 12AX7
V3Penta 12AX7
V4 Penta 12AX7
V5 Ruby 12AX7
V6 Ruby 12AX7
V7 Sovtek 12AX7

Does that sound right?

the warning light is just there to let you know that the amp is in el34 mode.it is in the manual..

page 43
This mini toggle allows for proper biasing when swapping to EL34 type power tubes for a brighter harmonic laden response. It selects a different set of bias resistors and insures that these extremely different power tubes will sound better and work much more reliably. The adjacent LED indicator alerts you that the bias has been set to accommodate the EL34’s.
NOTE: It is extremely important that the BIAS SWITCH setting match the type of tubes in use. Failure to comply will result in damage to your amplifier. Always check the BIAS SWITCH whenever swapping tubes!
Regardless of the type of power tube you choose, we strongly suggest keeping at least one spare set of tubes and a bag of extra fuses with you at all times should a power tube fail when performing. A little preparation wil save you a lot of frustration.
NOTE: Using the AC POWER switch set to VARIAC POWER will reduce the strain on EL34 tubes (and 6L6 as well). If you prefer the sound of this setting, you will reduce the likelihood of tube problems and greatly extend their toneful life, as they are basically coasting.
REAR
PANELPANEL: Features (Continued)
PAGE

as far as preamp tubes go dont worry about it i am sure you have on theat is matched and balanced and that on goes in the PI

 

[sean106alcon]

Ok so I put in the El 34's and a new fuse. Also the EH rectifier cab. Then the foot switch came back on and no fuse blowing. have the switch set to EL 34 but the red caution light came on so I turned right off after I saw it. So now I don't what the heck. Is the power amp tube or the pre amp tubes. What does the caution light mean? the manual I cannot find any info on what it means. I am assuming of course it has to do with the tubes. Just not sure if it means the power amp tubes or preamp tubes. I think I need to go back and check all the preamp tubes and make sure they are totally in place and fully secured in which I am sure they are as I was very careful.

The order I did was
V1Tung-sol 12AX7
V2 Penta 12AX7
V3Penta 12AX7
V4 Penta 12AX7
V5 Ruby 12AX7
V6 Ruby 12AX7
V7 Sovtek 12AX7

Does that sound right?

the warning light is just there to let you know that the amp is in el34 mode.it is in the manual..

page 43
This mini toggle allows for proper biasing when swapping to EL34 type power tubes for a brighter harmonic laden response. It selects a different set of bias resistors and insures that these extremely different power tubes will sound better and work much more reliably. The adjacent LED indicator alerts you that the bias has been set to accommodate the EL34’s.
NOTE: It is extremely important that the BIAS SWITCH setting match the type of tubes in use. Failure to comply will result in damage to your amplifier. Always check the BIAS SWITCH whenever swapping tubes!
Regardless of the type of power tube you choose, we strongly suggest keeping at least one spare set of tubes and a bag of extra fuses with you at all times should a power tube fail when performing. A little preparation wil save you a lot of frustration.
NOTE: Using the AC POWER switch set to VARIAC POWER will reduce the strain on EL34 tubes (and 6L6 as well). If you prefer the sound of this setting, you will reduce the likelihood of tube problems and greatly extend their toneful life, as they are basically coasting.
REAR
PANELPANEL: Features (Continued)
PAGE

as far as preamp tubes go dont worry about it i am sure you have on theat is matched and balanced and that on goes in the PI

Thanks man. Yeah I just searched and red this thread:
http://forum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=42002&hilit=Caution+Light

Thought it was a joke but I guess it really does mean it is fine. Cuz I put in the EL 34's and EH 54U and was jamming and it sounds so awesome. I know everyone has their flavor and man it kicks arse. Makes my Ch3 IMO a bit more articulate. I guess I am used to that tone as my VH4's had Ruby BSTR EL 34's. So i guess all in all the red light does not mean any harm. LOL should have read more of the manual but you know how boogie manuals are LOL tons of hidden stuff. I recall when I had a road king a while back it was like reading a text book. LOL Thanks guys and a very happy camper.

 

[magh8]

Ok so I put in the El 34's and a new fuse. Also the EH rectifier cab. Then the foot switch came back on and no fuse blowing. have the switch set to EL 34 but the red caution light came on so I turned right off after I saw it. So now I don't what the heck. Is the power amp tube or the pre amp tubes. What does the caution light mean? the manual I cannot find any info on what it means. I am assuming of course it has to do with the tubes. Just not sure if it means the power amp tubes or preamp tubes. I think I need to go back and check all the preamp tubes and make sure they are totally in place and fully secured in which I am sure they are as I was very careful.

The order I did was
V1Tung-sol 12AX7
V2 Penta 12AX7
V3Penta 12AX7
V4 Penta 12AX7
V5 Ruby 12AX7
V6 Ruby 12AX7
V7 Sovtek 12AX7

Does that sound right?

the warning light is just there to let you know that the amp is in el34 mode.it is in the manual..

page 43
This mini toggle allows for proper biasing when swapping to EL34 type power tubes for a brighter harmonic laden response. It selects a different set of bias resistors and insures that these extremely different power tubes will sound better and work much more reliably. The adjacent LED indicator alerts you that the bias has been set to accommodate the EL34’s.
NOTE: It is extremely important that the BIAS SWITCH setting match the type of tubes in use. Failure to comply will result in damage to your amplifier. Always check the BIAS SWITCH whenever swapping tubes!
Regardless of the type of power tube you choose, we strongly suggest keeping at least one spare set of tubes and a bag of extra fuses with you at all times should a power tube fail when performing. A little preparation wil save you a lot of frustration.
NOTE: Using the AC POWER switch set to VARIAC POWER will reduce the strain on EL34 tubes (and 6L6 as well). If you prefer the sound of this setting, you will reduce the likelihood of tube problems and greatly extend their toneful life, as they are basically coasting.
REAR
PANELPANEL: Features (Continued)
PAGE

as far as preamp tubes go dont worry about it i am sure you have on theat is matched and balanced and that on goes in the PI

Thanks man. Yeah I just searched and red this thread:
http://forum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=42002&hilit=Caution+Light

Thought it was a joke but I guess it really does mean it is fine. Cuz I put in the EL 34's and EH 54U and was jamming and it sounds so awesome. I know everyone has their flavor and man it kicks arse. Makes my Ch3 IMO a bit more articulate. I guess I am used to that tone as my VH4's had Ruby BSTR EL 34's. So i guess all in all the red light does not mean any harm. LOL should have read more of the manual but you know how boogie manuals are LOL tons of hidden stuff. I recall when I had a road king a while back it was like reading a text book. LOL Thanks guys and a very happy camper.

maybe if the light wasn't labled caution it wouldn't confuse people.i thought it was a problem indicator as well.

 

[Anonymous]

glad you are back in black!!! have fun.. it is always a good idea to keep spare tubes and fuses around......

Ok so I put in the El 34's and a new fuse. Also the EH rectifier cab. Then the foot switch came back on and no fuse blowing. have the switch set to EL 34 but the red caution light came on so I turned right off after I saw it. So now I don't what the heck. Is the power amp tube or the pre amp tubes. What does the caution light mean? the manual I cannot find any info on what it means. I am assuming of course it has to do with the tubes. Just not sure if it means the power amp tubes or preamp tubes. I think I need to go back and check all the preamp tubes and make sure they are totally in place and fully secured in which I am sure they are as I was very careful.

The order I did was
V1Tung-sol 12AX7
V2 Penta 12AX7
V3Penta 12AX7
V4 Penta 12AX7
V5 Ruby 12AX7
V6 Ruby 12AX7
V7 Sovtek 12AX7

Does that sound right?

the warning light is just there to let you know that the amp is in el34 mode.it is in the manual..

page 43
This mini toggle allows for proper biasing when swapping to EL34 type power tubes for a brighter harmonic laden response. It selects a different set of bias resistors and insures that these extremely different power tubes will sound better and work much more reliably. The adjacent LED indicator alerts you that the bias has been set to accommodate the EL34’s.
NOTE: It is extremely important that the BIAS SWITCH setting match the type of tubes in use. Failure to comply will result in damage to your amplifier. Always check the BIAS SWITCH whenever swapping tubes!
Regardless of the type of power tube you choose, we strongly suggest keeping at least one spare set of tubes and a bag of extra fuses with you at all times should a power tube fail when performing. A little preparation wil save you a lot of frustration.
NOTE: Using the AC POWER switch set to VARIAC POWER will reduce the strain on EL34 tubes (and 6L6 as well). If you prefer the sound of this setting, you will reduce the likelihood of tube problems and greatly extend their toneful life, as they are basically coasting.
REAR
PANELPANEL: Features (Continued)
PAGE

as far as preamp tubes go dont worry about it i am sure you have on theat is matched and balanced and that on goes in the PI

Thanks man. Yeah I just searched and red this thread:
http://forum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=42002&hilit=Caution+Light

Thought it was a joke but I guess it really does mean it is fine. Cuz I put in the EL 34's and EH 54U and was jamming and it sounds so awesome. I know everyone has their flavor and man it kicks arse. Makes my Ch3 IMO a bit more articulate. I guess I am used to that tone as my VH4's had Ruby BSTR EL 34's. So i guess all in all the red light does not mean any harm. LOL should have read more of the manual but you know how boogie manuals are LOL tons of hidden stuff. I recall when I had a road king a while back it was like reading a text book. LOL Thanks guys and a very happy camper.

 

[sean106alcon]

Thanks man, yeah will be tweaking all night and making some clips and a vid. Will post it later today or night.

 

[armyguyenglish]

I noticed no one explained the "YXXY" remark. Power tubes work in sets (or pairs), the "Y" is the two outside tubes and the "X" is the two inside tubes. That is location-wise where the pairs are located. Some amps can have intergrated quads, one pair being 6L6 and the other EL34 for example. Looking at a correctly installed intergrated quad you would see EL34, 6L6, 6L6, EL34. Or vise versa with the pairs swapped. Don't try it without researching first, as certain tubes and settings have to be used. Stilettos can't do it at all without a bias mod, due to the EL34s would burn out fast. Some amps are made to use intergrated quads only, like my Egnater Rebel 30. It uses two EL84s and two 6V6s and has a knob that can dial the sound two one pair, a mix, or to just the other pair. Still prefer my Stiletto's sound, can't wait to try the KT77s and GZ34s that are supposed to arrive today!!!

 

[magh8]

I noticed no one explained the "YXXY" remark. Power tubes work in sets (or pairs), the "Y" is the two outside tubes and the "X" is the two inside tubes. That is location-wise where the pairs are located. Some amps can have intergrated quads, one pair being 6L6 and the other EL34 for example. Looking at a correctly installed intergrated quad you would see EL34, 6L6, 6L6, EL34. Or vise versa with the pairs swapped. Don't try it without researching first, as certain tubes and settings have to be used. Stilettos can't do it at all without a bias mod, due to the EL34s would burn out fast. Some amps are made to use intergrated quads only, like my Egnater Rebel 30. It uses two EL84s and two 6V6s and has a knob that can dial the sound two one pair, a mix, or to just the other pair. Still prefer my Stiletto's sound, can't wait to try the KT77s and GZ34s that are supposed to arrive today!!!

curious to see what you have to say about the kt77's

 

[sean106alcon]

I noticed no one explained the "YXXY" remark. Power tubes work in sets (or pairs), the "Y" is the two outside tubes and the "X" is the two inside tubes. That is location-wise where the pairs are located. Some amps can have intergrated quads, one pair being 6L6 and the other EL34 for example. Looking at a correctly installed intergrated quad you would see EL34, 6L6, 6L6, EL34. Or vise versa with the pairs swapped. Don't try it without researching first, as certain tubes and settings have to be used. Stilettos can't do it at all without a bias mod, due to the EL34s would burn out fast. Some amps are made to use intergrated quads only, like my Egnater Rebel 30. It uses two EL84s and two 6V6s and has a knob that can dial the sound two one pair, a mix, or to just the other pair. Still prefer my Stiletto's sound, can't wait to try the KT77s and GZ34s that are supposed to arrive today!!!

Hey thanks for the explanation man. Curious when you get a set of 4 tubes how do you know which ones are the X and which ones are the Y. All the EL34's I popped in looked the same. But the Mesa 6l6's had two short ones and 2 longer ones. Which ones are which? Thanks again.

 

[magh8]

I noticed no one explained the "YXXY" remark. Power tubes work in sets (or pairs), the "Y" is the two outside tubes and the "X" is the two inside tubes. That is location-wise where the pairs are located. Some amps can have intergrated quads, one pair being 6L6 and the other EL34 for example. Looking at a correctly installed intergrated quad you would see EL34, 6L6, 6L6, EL34. Or vise versa with the pairs swapped. Don't try it without researching first, as certain tubes and settings have to be used. Stilettos can't do it at all without a bias mod, due to the EL34s would burn out fast. Some amps are made to use intergrated quads only, like my Egnater Rebel 30. It uses two EL84s and two 6V6s and has a knob that can dial the sound two one pair, a mix, or to just the other pair. Still prefer my Stiletto's sound, can't wait to try the KT77s and GZ34s that are supposed to arrive today!!!

Hey thanks for the explanation man. Curious when you get a set of 4 tubes how do you know which ones are the X and which ones are the Y. All the EL34's I popped in looked the same. But the Mesa 6l6's had two short ones and 2 longer ones. Which ones are which? Thanks again.

no he was just calling the tubes tube x(6l6)and the el34 as if you were running an intergrated quad...

what i do is place them in pairs say all 6l6 one pair rated at 33 and one pair at 32 i will put the 32 in the middle and the 33's on the out side so it is more balanced....

 

[LPJunky]

There were quite a few discussions on the wisdom of mixing tube types but if you stick to the same type you'll see on page 62 of the manual, the explanation for the Xs and Ys. The 2 Xs are active for 45Watts while the Y would be off at that power setting. It means that you only need to have 2 pairs of matched tubes and not a matched quad. Although when you order 4 power tubes from seller they should assume a matched quad. I know that the www.tubestore.com is what they assume when you order 2 matched pairs.

Now you say that you have 2 different looking pairs! I saw that the pictures show slightly differents bias current and transductence but I would put the similar one paires in X spot and the other similar in the Y spots. Does that make sense?

We could safely assume the physical twins have the same bias current.

I would say it is fairly safe to proceed since they are very close. I am no tube expert so you may want to wait for more knowledgeable people to confirm it or ask where you bought the tube.