Desperately seeking advice on swapping a TR panel mount to a fat cast nickel Switchcraft XLR. I did see speakon and Nutrik jacks that were smaller - but they did not look robust z`nuff.
You know you need to address an issue ...
... when an apparent tail end boomer escapee from a Nail Salon Operator Convention offers a drink while you look at the club entrance for the gear guy with the keys to the van so you can polish off a vile, or two, of Royal Jelly Panarax, swab off the sweat, change the Haynes and slam down a can of Arizonona Green Tea on a 108 degree S Teha day - and you hear, in a classic MILF scotch and cig alto a suggestively asked phrase along the line of .. "why you always adjusting your package" forcing you to politely explain that the Jap Modern HM you been playing (to preserve the old lady's "C" neck and frets) has some farkle or pillow fairy in the input jack - and that you find yourself subconsciously, almost incessantly, twisting it to assure the contacts are mating (even when the input jack pillow fairy hasn't stolen a decibel or subharmonic from the last bar - even when the head is on standby - while you ponder a comment along the lines - "I've never seen mascara used as a hair jell" - it be time to shed your old compulsive dead brain walking "cable jack" tick and fix de bxtch!
Purchased a Switchcraft cast housing XLR input jack for the HM (side mount). The HM is about 1 3/4 inches wide - the mounting flange on the XLK is 1 1/2 inches wide.
Replaced pickups - switches - solder my cables - but never bored into a guitar with a machine. Have drill press - heres a snag of the elements:
I am not an expert - but I am very retentive. I will have the butt of the HM solid jigged to the drill press.
I'll use a 1 1/2" bit to flatten out the surface where the XLR is to be mounted so that the flange is flush.
May need to clean up with a one inch for the replacement barrel.
The trick I need - and I am sweating at the thought of this - is a best practice method to preserve and assure the drilling mark. If someone don't change my mind B4 I start - the plan is to glue a flat wide piece of 3/8 pine. The glue line will be centered on the existing TR routing between a 1/2 inch radius and a 3/4 radius. When the glue dries the attached "stick" will be use to assure the axis of the new hole trues to the old hole and (old) TR jack "center" point.
The 1 inch hole is drilled first the the 1 1/2 inch bit will mill off just enough wood to for a flush and aesthetic finished mount (the "fir out" stick bond will be milled away.
The are some components for the TBX (wah wah with no pedal!) - if it can handle my banging - the drilling trauma shouldn't be too risky (right?).
I go mow lawn now - when finished - if anyone can share a better way - I'll fed ex them my neighbors gerbil and enough of her modified Barbie Wardrobe for any itinerary y'all decide on. Here's her Sweet 16 picture (no tongue on first date):
Image courtesy Teen.com
thanks ....
You know you need to address an issue ...
... when an apparent tail end boomer escapee from a Nail Salon Operator Convention offers a drink while you look at the club entrance for the gear guy with the keys to the van so you can polish off a vile, or two, of Royal Jelly Panarax, swab off the sweat, change the Haynes and slam down a can of Arizonona Green Tea on a 108 degree S Teha day - and you hear, in a classic MILF scotch and cig alto a suggestively asked phrase along the line of .. "why you always adjusting your package" forcing you to politely explain that the Jap Modern HM you been playing (to preserve the old lady's "C" neck and frets) has some farkle or pillow fairy in the input jack - and that you find yourself subconsciously, almost incessantly, twisting it to assure the contacts are mating (even when the input jack pillow fairy hasn't stolen a decibel or subharmonic from the last bar - even when the head is on standby - while you ponder a comment along the lines - "I've never seen mascara used as a hair jell" - it be time to shed your old compulsive dead brain walking "cable jack" tick and fix de bxtch!
Purchased a Switchcraft cast housing XLR input jack for the HM (side mount). The HM is about 1 3/4 inches wide - the mounting flange on the XLK is 1 1/2 inches wide.
Replaced pickups - switches - solder my cables - but never bored into a guitar with a machine. Have drill press - heres a snag of the elements:
I am not an expert - but I am very retentive. I will have the butt of the HM solid jigged to the drill press.
I'll use a 1 1/2" bit to flatten out the surface where the XLR is to be mounted so that the flange is flush.
May need to clean up with a one inch for the replacement barrel.
The trick I need - and I am sweating at the thought of this - is a best practice method to preserve and assure the drilling mark. If someone don't change my mind B4 I start - the plan is to glue a flat wide piece of 3/8 pine. The glue line will be centered on the existing TR routing between a 1/2 inch radius and a 3/4 radius. When the glue dries the attached "stick" will be use to assure the axis of the new hole trues to the old hole and (old) TR jack "center" point.
The 1 inch hole is drilled first the the 1 1/2 inch bit will mill off just enough wood to for a flush and aesthetic finished mount (the "fir out" stick bond will be milled away.
The are some components for the TBX (wah wah with no pedal!) - if it can handle my banging - the drilling trauma shouldn't be too risky (right?).
I go mow lawn now - when finished - if anyone can share a better way - I'll fed ex them my neighbors gerbil and enough of her modified Barbie Wardrobe for any itinerary y'all decide on. Here's her Sweet 16 picture (no tongue on first date):
Image courtesy Teen.com
thanks ....
