Step by step speaker swap
- Thread starter domct203
- Start date
Help Support The Boogie Board:
Nice write up.... However, breaking the seal on the back can be difficult. I had first remove one of the side handles and use a hammer to tap the back side of the back board along the bottom to loosen the grip of the double sided tape. Removal of the speakers was also tricky. Flat blade screw driver used as a pry bar to weaken the grip of the speaker from the baffle board helped. Since I wanted to reuse my V30's I took care not to cause damage.
Also if using #10 screws, the T nut will require drilling out the holes. I opted for simple screws and washers and used locking bolts on the inside. Painted the screws black to hid them. Also drilled out the other 4 holes per each speaker. Still need to remove the grill to do this.
Also if using #10 screws, the T nut will require drilling out the holes. I opted for simple screws and washers and used locking bolts on the inside. Painted the screws black to hid them. Also drilled out the other 4 holes per each speaker. Still need to remove the grill to do this.
There should be no issue with just 4 screws. However, you may need to replace the existing screws that were used to secure the V30's as the ends may be bent. Also depends on the depth of the mounting ring. EV is nearly 1/4 inch thick and very stiff seal. V30 is thinner with foam seal. I did not have sufficient thread to reuse the existing screws. Not sure on the Delta Pro series. I have not looked at any drawings with dimensions in a while. If and when you decide to swap, expect to replace the mounting screws just in case. Mesa used #8-32 x1.25"screws, I changed to 1.5 inch length but #10-24 size and thread. No reason why you can't use #8-32 screw. I would avoid stainless steel screws as they are softer and strip easily compared to hardened steel. You can remove the existing screws with a cordless drill and Phillips bit and install longer #8-32 screw in the same manner. If you change to #10 you will have to drill out the holes. T-nut, you will have to drill more wood. I used the speaker as a template to drill the other holes but with a pilot drill much smaller than the required hole. Also once you remove the grill, the frame made out of FDM or some compressed wood pulp material. use a small dab of wood glue and part of a wood tooth pick and insert it into the hole on the frame before mounting the grill. I did not do this and when I wanted to install two other EV's (tried the EV and V30 mix) I could no longer reuse the same holes, So I bolted it from the front side with star tool wood screws and decorative washers. Also needed to cut down on vibration so I installed insulation foam strips where the grill makes contact with the standoffs as well as other areas. Doing a speaker swap on the 412 can be time consuming. Also when tightening the mounting bolts on the speakers, do not use power tools. You may need to position the cabinet so you have a good hold of tools and parts with both hands. Last thing you want to do is pop a screw driver thought the cone of your new speaker or the one you may want to reuse later.
I will have to consider the Delta Pro some day. Your comparison, was that with the EV classic or Black Label ?
SO I threw 2 of the delta pro's today into my rectifier cab with 2 v30's. It sounds great! Really gave the cab some balls. I was surprised that these speakers added some high end harshness and brightness but I'm thinking they probably have to be broken in. Either way. This is a great combo. The new speakers did not take away from the character of the cab and the v30's at all. It just made the sound thicker and more massive.
I didn't remove the wires at the jack plate, I just unsoldered them at the speakers.Tave said:
This is how the speakers are wired as OEM, each 'right' & 'left' pair are in parallel, then those are combined in series at the jackplate for 8 ohm mono. The white wire is positive.
I hope this helps.
Dom
Great post.... However I had issues removing the back due to the seal. I first had to remove one of the side handles and use a small sledge hammer to break the seal free. It just would not give. Even had difficulty removing the side handle as that had sealing tape on it too. I have a new cabinet as well and the construction is far different than the 16 year old cab that I changed speakers in. When I converted to EVM12L I drilled out the extra 4 holes per speaker and used 8 studs to secure the speaker in place. I opted not to use the T-nuts as I have had issues with those in the past. So far I have changed the speakers 3 times since I removed the original V30, went to EV, back to V30 and now using G12H75s.
I actually had two of the T nuts spin on the baffle board while trying to remove a screw. What a PITA to get that apart. I'm actually going to edit my OP to add that info. I'm sure the Loctite contributed 8)bandit2013 said:
What did you find different between the old vs new cab? I own a 2001 & 2004 Recto 4X12, both built like the proverbial tank.
Difference between the old and new, jack plate and side handles fit in a recessed pocket on the new cabinet. The old one, the flange of the jack plate and side handles were sealed with sticky clear rubber like adhesive. Needed to pry them off to remove then from the surfaces. I had bend the flange on one of the side handles that I had to reshape flat.
I had removed one of the side handles on the new cab as it sounded so much different than the old one (before I made changes to it) and was wondering if they were V30 or were they something different (Filmore?). Side handle was not secured with adhesive sealant. I have not tried to remove the back panel on the new cabinet as it sounds great as is and based on past experience in trying to open the older one, I had to repair the center post as it broke free from the baffle board but was still secure with the many staples used to construct it. Glue joint had broken. One thing lead to another and chasing vibrations I found it came from the top baffle section and the now loose fit of the center post. Removed it and made a new one out of a 2x4. Had to shape the end to fit the pocket but it worked. Now that I had to fix a few things it is vibration free and compares to the new cabinet quite well.
Both the 2000 cab and the 2013 cab weigh the same. Very similar in shape, size. The new one is just like the old one, solid and something you do not want to drop on your foot. When I restored the old cab with the original V30's it did not sound the same as the new one. Original speakers never got much use during the 16 years of ownership so they were not really broken in, the old cab spent most of the time in storage due to an injury to my left arm sort of ended my playing guitar of any type. That took 8+ years to recover from. (torn tendons in left elbo, pinched nerve, broken pinky and knuckle damage to index finger). Just thinking about it reminds me why I dislike winter and waist deep snow as that what was reason behind the injury.
I had removed one of the side handles on the new cab as it sounded so much different than the old one (before I made changes to it) and was wondering if they were V30 or were they something different (Filmore?). Side handle was not secured with adhesive sealant. I have not tried to remove the back panel on the new cabinet as it sounds great as is and based on past experience in trying to open the older one, I had to repair the center post as it broke free from the baffle board but was still secure with the many staples used to construct it. Glue joint had broken. One thing lead to another and chasing vibrations I found it came from the top baffle section and the now loose fit of the center post. Removed it and made a new one out of a 2x4. Had to shape the end to fit the pocket but it worked. Now that I had to fix a few things it is vibration free and compares to the new cabinet quite well.
Both the 2000 cab and the 2013 cab weigh the same. Very similar in shape, size. The new one is just like the old one, solid and something you do not want to drop on your foot. When I restored the old cab with the original V30's it did not sound the same as the new one. Original speakers never got much use during the 16 years of ownership so they were not really broken in, the old cab spent most of the time in storage due to an injury to my left arm sort of ended my playing guitar of any type. That took 8+ years to recover from. (torn tendons in left elbo, pinched nerve, broken pinky and knuckle damage to index finger). Just thinking about it reminds me why I dislike winter and waist deep snow as that what was reason behind the injury.
Similar threads
