My Triaxis Thread

[Atomic.Sheep]

Hi guys, I'm thinking about getting a triaxis and I'm just not sure whether it's for me. I don't gig, I don't have a band and I don't record, so it'll be purely a practice amp. On the other hand I do want to start a band and I do want to start recording stuff sooner or later. Based on these facts alone, I'm thinking of getting the triaxis and mate it with the 20:20 for now for practice purposes. If I ever need more grunt I'll get the 2:90 as I know that was made specifically for the triaxis but I simply don't need that much power at the moment.

I would really love to hear what a triaxis mated with a 20:20 sounds. I've searched far and wide and I've not seen this setup used very much at all and finding audio samples has proved completely futile. I know I prefer a slightly punchier sound rather than the compressed sound that the 20:20 triaxis setup supposedly makes

see: http://forum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=42500&start=15

but I'm sure it still sounds a heck of a lot better than my current solid state Roland Cube anyway. I definitely like the dual rectifier sound and I know you don't really get it with the triaxis but I think I'm getting over the recto sound little by little and moving more and more towards the Mark IV sound which I was looking to get a while back also but they are very rare in Australia and getting it new is simply insanely expensive (~$5k), same as the triaxis actually but I found a nice second hand one on sale and it got me thinking.

The other things I like about the triaxis is its versatility and it's a recording amp if I'm not mistaken? I'm not quite sure how recording works nor how/what MIDI is. I read about it a bit as there was a triaxis on sale for a price I liked and I was in a rush to figure out whether I want this thing or not but ended up not forking out the money as I don't like being rushed in my decisions. The fact that you can mix and match racks is also quite appealing. I can't say I'm made of money and I'll be mixing and matching my setup all that much but the option being there is always nice. I think I prefer that than having to get a heap of different heads and cabs to have all the sounds I want.

Just what to hear what you guys think.

 

[elvis]

I think you'll never know until you try. Get the rig, play it for a while, and trade to a 50/50 or 2:90 if the 20/20 bugs you. I had the 20/20 and thought it was quite nice. It did eventually turn into a 50/50, but who knew? I think you'd be hard pressed to find someone on this forum that would try to talk you out of a Triaxis.

 

[crane]

I love my TA running through my 20/20. Punchy, cutting through mix.
Using it with the 50/50 or 295, you'll get some more headroom, great bass response.
When playing in a band, the 20/20 is IMO better, because your sound won't fade in the bass or drum sound.
You can hear som sample of the TA with the 20/20 here :
http://www.myspace.com/gloryholeband
LD1 yellow modes through the 20/20 on the 3 first songs, LD2 yellow through the 20/20 AND 295 for the last one.

 

[Atomic.Sheep]

I'm just wondering, what is the point of the 12AX7s? They appear both on the TA and the 20:20?

Also, the 20:20 and the 2:50 are stereo, the 2:90 is simul class, what is stereo and what is simul class? Is simul class the A/B class that the rectifiers use? As for stereo, I've only heard it used on Hi-Fi sound equipment, I'm a bit confused why it's used to describe non Hi-Fi (and no I don't understand what stereo means or at least what it is in practical terms. I understand that stereo makes the sound appear to be coming from all directions while mono only from the speaker but I don't understand how that is achieved).

Lastly, are rectifier sounds possible with the TA (or at least ones that approach it)? I know I said I'm getting over those sounds but until I'm fully cured I would like to have those sounds in my amp.

 

[masque]

the triaxis and 20/20 are a match made in heaven to my ears. you can click on the links below in my signature and find numerous examples of full recordings done with that combination.

 

[Atomic.Sheep]

Awesome, thanks for the links, some awesome sounds! A lot of my worries have now disappeared.

 

[Danimal]

Lastly, are rectifier sounds possible with the TA (or at least ones that approach it)?

Only if you get an older one with the Recto board but NO fat mod. Otherwise you're looking at strictly Mark-series territory.

The 20/20, 2:50, and 2:90 are all stereo. They each have a left and right side. This won't be noticeable unless you have stereo effects, otherwise it just sound like it's coming from two different cabinets.

NOW... the 2:90 is the only one of those that is "simul-class," meaning it simultaneously runs two different kinds of power amps - Class A like vintage amps and Class A/B like modern amps (such as the Rectifier, or 2:50). A million years ago I played a Pod Pro through a 2:90 and the sound was very 3D and responsive. I've got a 395 on its way and can't wait to hear a proper preamp though it.

 

[Atomic.Sheep]

How do you discern between the various versions? Where are the i.d. numbers and where can I find out what each one means?

NOW... the 2:90 is the only one of those that is "simul-class," meaning it simultaneously runs two different kinds of power amps - Class A like vintage amps and Class A/B like modern amps

So it's a bit like running both the neck and bridge humbuckers at the same time? The rectos always run in A/B, the older amps run A only whilst this runs both at the same time? Hmm interesting. I suppose that would give it warmth?

Also, are there any things to look out for in particular when buying these second hand? A checklist of things to check perhaps?

P.S. I had a look at the TriAxis manual and I finally undersatnd where the stereo comes into play. I wasn't aware of the fact that in a 2x12 recto cab (what I'm looking to get for no particular reason other than looks... I prefer the 2x12 over the 4x12 although the 4x12 non slant version I like also but I digress), you connect a cable to each speaker in the 2x12 cab. I was finding it hard to imagine how you would get stereo sound through just one lead to the speaker cab! That's the kind of ignorance you get when you only use basic single speaker solid state combo amps!

 

[Danimal]

How do you discern between the various versions? Where are the i.d. numbers and where can I find out what each one means?

Units with serial #'s T0001 to T1629 are Version 1 w/o Midi/recording out circuit upgrade
Units with serial #'s T1630 to T8278 are Version 2 w/ TX4 "Vintage Rectifier" Lead 1 red circuit and Midi/recording out circuit upgrade
Units with serial #'s T8279 and up are Version 2 w/ TX5 "Phat Mod" Lead 1 red circuit and Midi/recording out circuit upgrade

The rectos always run in A/B, the older amps run A only whilst this runs both at the same time? Hmm interesting. I suppose that would give it warmth?

You got it. :mrgreen:

 

[masque]

Awesome, thanks for the links, some awesome sounds! A lot of my worries have now disappeared.

thank you very much....glad you enjoyed them!

 

[Atomic.Sheep]

Well this ones a late model... almost T9000. But the question stands! In fact, after talking to a few mates, some say that getting a second hand amp is the best thing that has ever happened to them, others say its seriously too dangerous. Yes it's expensive, but what are the chances of getting a lemon? Is a part of the circuit board likely to blow? How do I guard against forking out a lot of money for something that doesn't work (and no, I don't have the option of test driving it), I might have the possibility of a 3rd party helping me out but that's no guarantee, so at the moment I'm just pretty much solely relying on the sellers words and honesty.

 

[ando]

Well this ones a late model... almost T9000. But the question stands! In fact, after talking to a few mates, some say that getting a second hand amp is the best thing that has ever happened to them, others say its seriously too dangerous. Yes it's expensive, but what are the chances of getting a lemon? Is a part of the circuit board likely to blow? How do I guard against forking out a lot of money for something that doesn't work (and no, I don't have the option of test driving it), I might have the possibility of a 3rd party helping me out but that's no guarantee, so at the moment I'm just pretty much solely relying on the sellers words and honesty.

The chances of buying a lemon are fairly low - simply because there are far more honest people out there than dishonest people. Having said that, the risk is certainly there. There is risk that the seller is a crook, and there is risk that the seller is ignorant of the item in question. SOme people don't actually understand what they own enough to even answer your questions properly.

In spite of this, there is no reason to run for the hills (or buy new). As you have obviously worked out, Mesa gear is too expensive for most people. That limits you to the used market. Inherent in that is risk and you must accept that and learn how to manage your risk. If you are buying on eBay, only purchase expensive items from people with a high number of positives transactions in their history. Read their feedback and especially check out any negative feedback they have. If there is anything of the nature of "item not as described" or "item faulty", and "seller refused refund", simply forget about it.

If the seller is brand new to eBay, don't buy it. It's ok if you are only spending $100, but for something upwards of $500, just don't buy unless they have at least 20-30 clean transactions.

The rest is out of your hands. Yes, sometimes you do come off second best, but if the price is low you can factor a possible repair into your worst case scenario. If you can accept that risk, go for it. If you can't, save up a lot more money and buy new.

Personally, I have been very badly ripped off when I was new to eBay. I didn't have my risk management policy at that stage and I lost about $1500 on a rip off scam. Ebay will not help you, despite all their promises.

After that, I still used ebay, and have had excellent results just by adopting the above mentioned rules. I have since bought a Les Paul for $500, a Ibanez Universe for $600, a Triaxis+Ground Control for $600, a 2:90 for $600. All have been very good. Just on those products alone, I have saved around $5-6000 off retail price. So even with my first bad experience, I am still way in front. That is the other thing, even if you do get ripped off once or twice, the asking prices are so low that if you are a regular buyer, you will come out well in front. If I had been more careful when I got ripped off, that wouldn't have happened either.

So, now it's up to you!