My Roadster is squishy, temperamental, and noisy. Advice?

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fluff191 said:
I've never actually recommended this before, but perhaps you'd benefit from a second 4 x 12? Either that or maybe some of those EV 12L -or whatever they are- 200watt speakers. A 600watt cab or a couple of cabs would help keep things much more crisp and tight at these extreme volumes.

OK! The truth is out. I play really loud- but I think you are right, in that a full stack may be the answer. I crank my rig up now, because it's right next to the drum stage, our PA system is 10 feet tall behind that, and the bassist plays through a 6' tall AMPEG rig on the other side of the stage. I'm getting drowned out in there, and can barely hear myself play without stooping down.. even with the angled cab. I bet I could push the whole thing alot less if I had the extra height!

YellowJacket said:
Playing through a tube amp is very, very different and can be frustrating until your ear and style developes.

I know, right?? I've spent the entire last year trying to troubleshoot this thing. Who knew, I just needed to get on the forum and hear it from you guys haha :lol:
 
ryjan said:
This being your first tube amp will also cause your head to spin. My first tube amp was a Triaxis and a 2:90 (learning curve). For a while I was dissapointed in the Triaxis and thought something must be wrong with it because I didn't hear the sounds comming out of it that I had heard at Metallica concerts. In the end I learned a lot about (the lack of) my playing technique and settings. Good tubes, factory recommended settings, practice, fresh strings, and more practice. Playing through a tube amp is very, very different and can be frustrating until your ear and style developes.

+10

I was showing my cousin-in-law my tube gear today. It was interesting to hear him play with distortion because he was obviously very unfamiliar with the subtle nuance that accompanies playing gain tones with a tube amp.

I find that pick attack is THE most important thing. I do like more gain for solos because it phattens up single note lines and still sounds saturated for soloing and shredding, which often requires very small and gentle motions. You can't wack the strings like you do for chording and maintain a reasonable amount of velocity while playing.

So ya, chording, muting, etc is very different on a tube amp. I generally put a lot of 'weight' into my strokes for heavy tones. It isn't so much strength or force as it is a heaviness. When I want to sound heavy, I angle the pick very much sideways and I rake it across the strings so there is more noise heard while chugging. Rather than a chug chug chug like in punk rock, you end up with a SSSSCHUG SSSSCHUG SSSCHUG which just sounds so much heavier and brutal. By contrast, I use a floppy dunlop nylon 0.60 pick for punk rock and I hold the pick parallel to the strings and let it flop off while chording. This gives a light and crisp attack which is more suitable for that style. Another trick during palm muting is to catch just a bit of flesh from your thumb on the strings. This emphasizes the harmonics and gives much more bite / highs to the tone. I figured this trick out when my old punk band was covering NOFX back in the day. I always wondered how they got those brighter more aggressive tones as well as the phat crunch. That was my solution.

Tube amps are VERY dynamic and you can get a myriad of different tones from one channel by working volume and tone controls as well as how hard you attack the strings. While you have the luxury of 4 channels, I only have two so I rely heavily on my volume knob to transition between heavier and lighter tones. I find that with my volume knob at 7, I get a lighter crunch, at 8 I get a phat punk rock type tone, 9 is saturated with more highs for metal, while 10 is reserved for shredding and soloing. With extra channels, you don't need to do this so much but do work on your nuance while playing. Technique helps define your tone. I mean I've heard many different people play my amp with my guitar and my settings and the tone is often drastically different.

Hmm, do be aware that the Roadster may NOT be the amp for you. One guy here named Yetti traded his Roadster for a Rev F 2 channel Triple Recto. He just finds it much heavier and brutal. There are countless other tube amps out there and many of them offer heads tailored to metal: Bogner, Engl, Rivera, Splawn, Framus, Soldano, Peavey, etc. Still, don't give up on the roadster just yet. It may take a bit of tweaking to get what you want. Maybe do a forum search for tones the other Roadster guys have uploaded.

If you are going to look at 4 x 12s, I HIGHLY Recommend you check out Mills Acoustics cabs. 9 out of 10 metal guys here recommend them!
 
Purist said:
If you are going to look at 4 x 12s, I HIGHLY Recommend you check out Mills Acoustics cabs. 9 out of 10 metal guys here recommend them!

I just checked out their site. These cabs are sick! Look at the Afterburner 412B-EVM Black Label edition.. SO AWESOME haha http://millsacoustics.com/models.html
 
YellowJacket said:
Honestly, gain doesn't add tightness and sharpness. You have to add highs and presence for that. Instead, gain adds thickness and girth to the tone at first, but after awhile it just gets mushy and squishy. A boost helps as well, **** does it help. I was shocked. the overall tone of the amp wasn't affected, the tone was just sharp and super clean. It felt fast and not mushy at all!

Yeah, I know. What I actually wanted to say is that with the gain at 9:00 (which isn't the truth, as we all know by now) you won't get a real powerful Metal tone ... I run my gain between 5 and 6 (DR 2010) and I'm happy with it. More than that, and things start to get complicated :)
 
In your original post, you said that you were experiencing volume/gain dropouts while playing, sounds like a cathode follower tube issue to me

Search the board for cathode follower and you'll find your culprit
 
Purist said:
Purist said:
If you are going to look at 4 x 12s, I HIGHLY Recommend you check out Mills Acoustics cabs. 9 out of 10 metal guys here recommend them!

I just checked out their site. These cabs are sick! Look at the Afterburner 412B-EVM Black Label edition.. SO AWESOME haha http://millsacoustics.com/models.html

RAD!!!!!!!!!

I think if I was to get one of these, I'd get the v30s and G12K 100s in an X pattern. I personally like the sound of speaker distortion since it really opens the sound up, in my opinion. Generally, the higher wattage speakers are tighter with less distortion so if you find speaker distortion makes your sound flabby, you might want these instead. I'd go with an 800watt cab definitely over a 1200watt one but if you want that super tight and articulate tone, that might work for you.
 
you don't really need a tech for all that. Just buy yourself a set of power and preamp tubes, removed the old ones carefully and replaced it with a fresh set and you're done and your roadster will sound new again. Don't replaced just one, replace the whole thing.
 
another thing to think about (i know this may sound obvious) but you said you play emg's...do you have fresh batteries in there?
 
cradlefish said:
you don't really need a tech for all that. Just buy yourself a set of power and preamp tubes, removed the old ones carefully and replaced it with a fresh set and you're done and your roadster will sound new again. Don't replaced just one, replace the whole thing.

I disagree, somewhat. You're better off to find the culprit(s). This way you can use the rest of the tubes you have in there as backup tubes in case of future failures!!

Purist . . . . Check out this thread!! http://forum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=48078 See if the clip in here is to your tastes?
 
YellowJacket said:
cradlefish said:
you don't really need a tech for all that. Just buy yourself a set of power and preamp tubes, removed the old ones carefully and replaced it with a fresh set and you're done and your roadster will sound new again. Don't replaced just one, replace the whole thing.

I disagree, somewhat. You're better off to find the culprit(s). This way you can use the rest of the tubes you have in there as backup tubes in case of future failures!!

Purist . . . . Check out this thread!! http://forum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=48078 See if the clip in here is to your tastes?

I would normally agree with you in just finding the culprit and be done with it. But since Purist mentioned that he had the amp a little more than a year now and not to mention that he could've gotten it used, he gigs quite often and I'm sure he uses it for rehearsals quite a bit as well. With that in mind you need consider that power tubes will start to fail after a year of a many hours of usage. That's why I suggested replacing the whole set....many not the preamp tubes but at least the power.
 
cradlefish said:
I would normally agree with you in just finding the culprit and be done with it. But since Purist mentioned that he had the amp a little more than a year now and not to mention that he could've gotten it used, he gigs quite often and I'm sure he uses it for rehearsals quite a bit as well. With that in mind you need consider that power tubes will start to fail after a year of a many hours of usage. That's why I suggested replacing the whole set....many not the preamp tubes but at least the power.

You misinterpreted what I was saying. He should at least replace all the power tubes and the v1 (and whatever preamp tubes are giving him trouble). I was just saying to test and find which ones are bad so he can save the still working old tubes for backups just in case of failure during a gig or something. He can replace them the next day but it is ALWAYS good to have backups. I'm personally anal about replacing tubes so I've never had one go on me. I have my little silver hardshell tube case I always take with me when I play . . .
 

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