MKIIC+ settings?

[Platypus]

I find it curious that you can't get a really clean sound out of it. I have no trouble getting a nice clean sound from mine, even with V1 above 8. There might be something else going on with your amp. Terms like "shallow and tinny" make me wonder if it might be a tube issue?

As a point of reference, what other amps do you/have you owned that you like?

I've also owned a bunch of amps. I've owned many Boogies before too. My number one amp at the moment is my MKIV. I know this sounds funny, but I had no problem dialing in a good sound with my MKIV. Even with all the knobs :lol:

I'm also thinking there might be a tube issue. Since I plan on keeping this amp, I think I might take it in for a check up. This way I can rule out any problems whatsoever.

BTW, I want to thank everyone for taking the time out to help me with my situation. I also very much appreciate all the "amp settings". I'll be checking them all out tomorrow.

thanks

Hey there

Some really good points were brought up. Do you have any shots of the guts? If you're getting really bright tones you might not have the bright reduction mod so backing off the presence on the back and running your volume 1 higher as Joey suggested might help you. If you don't have it you might consider having it done?

Both of my C+'s have the bright reduction mod and its more drastic on my simul. I am in the process of having it removed to be stock on the simul as I am running my presence at about 7 right now and its still a bit dull :shock: ...

You're also playing through an EV and an open back so that's a lot of treble right there. Can you try connecting it to another cabinet? Keep in mind that just one speaker is going to be rather limited and if you're looking for tight/punchy sound you might consider buying a thiele and running your combo EV at 4ohms and the thiele in conjunction at 4ohms too... or maybe a 4x12 (which I think you have?).

Dodger brings up a point I thought of too.. those tubes might just be shot. 6L6's lose a lot of bottom end and tend to get flubby when they're all used up. I'd give it a retube for sure. What kind of tubes are in it right now?

Also, keeping the rhythm clean and dirty channel 'on 10' is a balancing act, you can't have both sounding 100% in my opinion so keep that in mind also. I have found that the settings I posted are a compromise as far as the best of both worlds.

Sidenote to george, that's interesting that you like the pushed for humbuckers, I might have to try that again.

 

[adrenaline junkie]

I find it curious that you can't get a really clean sound out of it. I have no trouble getting a nice clean sound from mine, even with V1 above 8. There might be something else going on with your amp. Terms like "shallow and tinny" make me wonder if it might be a tube issue?

As a point of reference, what other amps do you/have you owned that you like?

I've also owned a bunch of amps. I've owned many Boogies before too. My number one amp at the moment is my MKIV. I know this sounds funny, but I had no problem dialing in a good sound with my MKIV. Even with all the knobs :lol:

I'm also thinking there might be a tube issue. Since I plan on keeping this amp, I think I might take it in for a check up. This way I can rule out any problems whatsoever.

BTW, I want to thank everyone for taking the time out to help me with my situation. I also very much appreciate all the "amp settings". I'll be checking them all out tomorrow.

thanks

Hey there

Some really good points were brought up. Do you have any shots of the guts? If you're getting really bright tones you might not have the bright reduction mod so backing off the presence on the back and running your volume 1 higher as Joey suggested might help you. If you don't have it you might consider having it done?

Both of my C+'s have the bright reduction mod and its more drastic on my simul. I am in the process of having it removed to be stock on the simul as I am running my presence at about 7 right now and its still a bit dull :shock: ...

You're also playing through an EV and an open back so that's a lot of treble right there. Can you try connecting it to another cabinet? Keep in mind that just one speaker is going to be rather limited and if you're looking for tight/punchy sound you might consider buying a thiele and running your combo EV at 4ohms and the thiele in conjunction at 4ohms too... or maybe a 4x12 (which I think you have?).

Dodger brings up a point I thought of too.. those tubes might just be shot. 6L6's lose a lot of bottom end and tend to get flubby when they're all used up. I'd give it a retube for sure. What kind of tubes are in it right now?

Also, keeping the rhythm clean and dirty channel 'on 10' is a balancing act, you can't have both sounding 100% in my opinion so keep that in mind also. I have found that the settings I posted are a compromise as far as the best of both worlds.

Sidenote to george, that's interesting that you like the pushed for humbuckers, I might have to try that again.

What's involved in having the brightness reduction removed? When I sent mine to MB to be looked over he suggested I have that done, and I'm really thinking I'd like to take it back to stock, it's just too thick all the time.

 

[adrenaline junkie]

Any of the settings that you have seen with an EQ C+ may not work too well for you (If they have a wild "V" scoop on their EQ). If you can stand a slightly dirty rhythm channel, set the Vol 1 to "9" and the Lead Drive to "4-5". Along with a low presence setting, this may help to fatten up the lead channel. What kind of guitar and speakers are you using?

I don't have the EQ so that might be a problem with not getting a full enough sound. Tomorrow I'll lower the presence, that should help.

As for guitars, I have a ton. Les Paul, Tele's, Dean, Ibanez, a little of everything. The amp is a combo so I'm using the speaker that's in the combo, which happens to be an EV.

Do you have an EQ you can put in the loop? It makes a drastic difference IMHO. Even a cheap 45.00 Boss GE-7 can do wonders in the loop of a non GEQ Mk IMHO.

 

[Platypus]

What's involved in having the brightness reduction removed? When I sent mine to MB to be looked over he suggested I have that done, and I'm really thinking I'd like to take it back to stock, it's just too thick all the time.

There is a .001 capacitor that you need to remove from the circuit as well as replacing the 10pf capacitor that goes across a 3.3m resistor with a 20pf one. Furthermore if there is a 100k resistor going between your vol1 pot and treble pot you need to replace it with buss wire. (thanks boogiebabies )

 

[jerseydrew]

I was able to take a couple of pictures of the guts of my "new" MkIIC+ amp. If anybody can scrutinize the inside I'd appreciate it. I paid for an original MKC+ amp, I hope it's original. I do know that the toggle for the ON/OFF was replaced, but I was told that's it. Obviously the tubes are not original.

Here's a quick pic of the guts

Here's a photobucket link with 31 pictures. Any help on identifying something odd will be appreciated. If everything looks legit, I'll be taking down to my local tech on Monday for a complete checkup. I will also be getting new JJ tubes. EL34's and 6L6's, as well as preamp tubes. Especially since I want to keep it. If something's not legit, I may return it.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v295/jerseydrew/Mesa MKIIC plus/?start=all

 

[Boogiebabies]

I was able to take a couple of pictures of the guts of my "new" MkIIC+ amp. If anybody can scrutinize the inside I'd appreciate it. I paid for an original MKC+ amp, I hope it's original. I do know that the toggle for the ON/OFF was replaced, but I was told that's it. Obviously the tubes are not original.

Here's a quick pic of the guts

Here's a photobucket link with 31 pictures. Any help on identifying something odd will be appreciated. If everything looks legit, I'll be taking down to my local tech on Monday for a complete checkup. I will also be getting new JJ tubes. EL34's and 6L6's, as well as preamp tubes. Especially since I want to keep it. If something's not legit, I may return it.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v295/jerseydrew/Mesa MKIIC plus/?start=all

The screen grid resistors and the blow back diodes have been replaced. The repair is fine and the rest of the amp is bone stock. Nothing was replaced that would effect the tone.

 

[jerseydrew]

Thank you everybody You guys are so smart!

 

[JOEY B.]

Looking at your pics of the outer power tube sockets, I would definately connect pin#1 to ground if you want to use EL-34 type tubes. They do not appear to have been connected yet, from what I can tell.

 

[trem]

Pardon my n00bish question, but are those tube sockets pcb mounted? :shock:

~trem

 

[Boogiebabies]

Pardon my n00bish question, but are those tube sockets pcb mounted? :shock:

~trem

No, they are chassis mounted. Just the pins are soldered to the power amp circuit board. The circuit board provides no structural support. In most PCB mounted power tubes, you do not need the big hole like the PWR-7C1.

 

[trem]

Aahh, thanks BB.

 

[floridamike]

I just picked up the exact same model a few weeks ago and have had a nice time playing around with it.

I mainly play single coils (and ones with a bit of treble bite like an old ASAT Classic and and SG w/lollar P90s) so I keep the presence off completely. With those pickups I like a bit higher V1 so I run it around 8, treble around 5 or 6 max, bass around 4, mid around 5, MV on whatever, lead on 4 and Ld on 4 or 5.

I leave the knobs pushed in except maybe the lead volume shift. I also use a old big-box Gainster on both channels with it set for a boost. Sounds great.

This set up sounds like s#$% at low volume but once the volume goes uo it sounds very smooth and balanced on both channels. I can go from Allman Brothers to Marvin Gaye to Little Feat to AC/DC and Boston depending on the guitar without touching any settings. I also use a Zvex Super Duper on the lead channel to give it some instant edge if needed.

This one has the EV Force in it and I have an old C90 and a V30 I'm gonna try as well (still trying to find an old 12L).

 

[Stonge]

I gotta tell you all that it took me awhile before I finally setlled with the tubes I have now. That was what really made my amp sound harsh at times. No matter how I would set it; especially for the tones I was trying to achieve. I play mostly hard rock..but I will always dig in with the clean channel and just plain ol' overdrive. I eventually had to settle with mullards and the 440s(6L6). But I had tried many different tubes with it before I found what I wanted. From JJs, GrvTbes, Mesa, winged Cs (El34), TADs (way too master of puppets sounding for my taste!) to all 6L6 to El34/6L6. I finally bought some NOS mullards EL34s, and NOS amprex, fishers, mullard, telefunken etc. I really liked the amprex tubes for the preamp, and Siemens EL34s w/mesa 440s. I want to try the NOS phillips - I've heard those are suppose to be kick ***.
BTW The settings I posted I used with the EQ (V thing) and without. You really have to sit and fiddle with this amp. It's not one of those amps that you set once. I find myself just constantly turning knobs, whether I change my guitar or Channel or even just sitting down to play first thing. Utilize the use of V1, master (pulled or not), lead drive and lead master. They all change from room to room.