Mark III (Purple Stripe) Noise (Tube?) Question

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Schmoog

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take it to an authorized mesa repair tech. thats how I hooked up with my tech, the man is absolutely insane. brilliant, but crazy. and he does AWESOME work. time electronics in union NJ. anyways, could be tubes, could also be a cap issue maybe? boogiebabies correct me if I'm wrong on that one.
 
I had a similar prob with my mk III , I opened it up and checked the pwr tube sockets and found a fried resistor . Called boogie and they sent out a pair no charge . Replaced 'em on both middle tubes and was good to go .
No problems since .

B
 
Change all the preamp tubes and then put the STR-415's back in. The are an 11,000 hour tube. Bad caps make a loud hum and will usually smoke and stink up your room. A drifting triode could account for your volume drop as well as dirty pots. It probably needs a good spring cleaning. Use new preamp tubes or you'll just chase your tail. I put all my used tubes in a seperate box ( 70 old Mesa's) and I throw out the bad ones.
 
One of my older posts.


I do a full check up on all of my amps every year. I clean, scrub and tighten the pre and power sockets with a dental pick, clean and lube the pots, clean the reverb cables and soak and clean the star ground. In 10 years, no blown tubes ( Dougs Tubes, GT's and Triode Electronics ), no scratchy pots and totall reliability. I clean any exposed circuit boards and solder connections with PCB cleaner. A Q-Tip is great for cleaning exposed traces and even a shiny trace or joint will give you more dirt and oxidation than you could imagine.. Gently vaccum, or use a micro fiber cloth to get the dust bunnies. A good 0000 Scotch Brite cut like a french fry is the best for cleaning input sockets until they shine like new. I also inspect and coat the transformers to keep them from rusting. Other than an occasional cooky preamp tube, Boogies are awesome.

Whatever you do, do not use contact cleaner on the EQ faders. They are impossible to lubricate. They use a special thick grease that cannot be replaced due to the design of the slider.

I also check voltages at the caps, bias voltage at the caps and plate voltages for the pre and powers. In case anything goes funny, I have a pretty good map of where a critical problem may be. Another trick I use is to test the power and bias caps out of circuit for capacitance. IMO, when they generally read 30uf, 220uf and 47-50uf for the bias caps I leave them. Each amp has it's own medical history and chart. This is also part of my Boogie restoration and revitalization regimen. You would be surprised how an old amp can come to life when it clean and free of multiple little problems.
 
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