sixtonoize
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- Joined
- Feb 20, 2008
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Long story short, I traded some cash and gear for a Mark IV wide combo.
The guy I got it from said that there was a problem with the Bass knob on the Lead channel tone stack - that it didn't actually increase the bass, just made the tone loose and farty. I thought that (best case scenario) he just didn't know how to use a Mark-series amp or (worst case scenario) the pot would be easy to swap out.
Well, I was jamming on it tonight, and the tone stack definitely works just fine.
HOWEVER, the 80hz slider on the GEQ doesn't do a **** thing.
So, I pull the chassis to check it out, and lo and behold, there's a loose connection on the 80hz inductor. If you press down on it with something long and conductive, the slider works fine. If not, it has zero effect. So I need to pull the GEQ module to get to the side that's up against the faceplate, but Mesa doesn't use screws like a normal company, oh no...they use 6 or 7 little plastic studs and just snap the GEQ board in place. I don't really want to use brute force, but it's looking like the best option. I really don't want to destroy the GEQ board in the process.
So...little help here guys?
The guy I got it from said that there was a problem with the Bass knob on the Lead channel tone stack - that it didn't actually increase the bass, just made the tone loose and farty. I thought that (best case scenario) he just didn't know how to use a Mark-series amp or (worst case scenario) the pot would be easy to swap out.
Well, I was jamming on it tonight, and the tone stack definitely works just fine.
HOWEVER, the 80hz slider on the GEQ doesn't do a **** thing.
So, I pull the chassis to check it out, and lo and behold, there's a loose connection on the 80hz inductor. If you press down on it with something long and conductive, the slider works fine. If not, it has zero effect. So I need to pull the GEQ module to get to the side that's up against the faceplate, but Mesa doesn't use screws like a normal company, oh no...they use 6 or 7 little plastic studs and just snap the GEQ board in place. I don't really want to use brute force, but it's looking like the best option. I really don't want to destroy the GEQ board in the process.
So...little help here guys?