Here's a couple of tricks to help tune stability/string life

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Old BF Shred

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So Cal no more...now Ozark Mountains
I have been seeing some posts about tuning stability, tremolos, and string choices.
This prompts me to offer an idea or two to help in these areas.....

Any of you folks familiar with the engine teatment called "Prolong"?
It's getting harder to find in Calif, but I did buy some in Nevada a while back and it pretty much has been a national brand.

Anyway, it's a great metal treatment meant to reduce friction.
(There are other brands similar that may work as well.... Z max, Duralube, etc).
I coat all the strings when replacing a set, and have found it to increase string life greatly. I also treat the frets with it.
I also use it to lube the pivot point (knife edge) of my tremolos, FR's and G&L fulcrum.

I do not exaggerate when I tell you I now only change strings 1/3 as often as I used to.
And I have no problems with stability on the tremolos once the strings are broken in.

I am sold on this procedure and am curious if anyone else has tried doing something like this(?)

Let us know....
Take care! :D
 
Hi,

Are you talking about the PTFE engine treatment you add to the oil? Over here in the UK there's a brand called "Slick 50"...

Doesn't it leave a greasy film on the strings?
 
I wonder about the biological hazards of absorbing the chemical compounds through your skin.

I'll pry the $10 from my wallet for new strings, thanks.
 
I just wipe the strings down regularly between sets.
My Dean Markleys hold tune and intonation for an amazingly long time on my Floyd equipped Zion
 
domct203 said:
As far as the strings, I just wipe them down after use and change them once a week.

Dom

Once a week?! Dang dude! I've been using the DR tite-fit strings and fast fret and they last me a good 2 months before starting to sound dead. I don't have very acidic hands though...
 
Yea, the guys in the band say I have Toxic Sweat LOL, and once the strings start to corrode they are like little files wearing grooves in the frets. I actually changed all the p'up screws to stainless steel because steel just rusts on me immediatly.

I'll try to buy them 12 sets at a time and that works out to about $3.50 a week/set. With the ratio of string $$ to guitar value the $3.50 a week is fine. Hell, I spend more on coffee! Besides, IMHO there is nothing like a new set of strings on an ebony fretboard.

This is for my main axe ('71 Les Paul), the Schecter is mainly my backup, and that gets new strings about every 3-4 weeks, same goes for the Italia.

Dom
 
I wonder about the biological hazards of absorbing the chemical compounds through your skin.

Well I have nnnnneeevvv-vv--vv--err nnnn-ooo-tttic-edddd any bad eeeeeffff-ff--fff-ffffeccccttttss fffffrrrr-o-mmmmm uuuuuu-ssssing it..... I'm sssssssssuuuu-rrrrrrr---eeeee iiittttt'ssss safe! :lol: :lol:

Seriously, once it permeates the metal, and you wipe down the strings it leaves no other residue. While I cannot guarantee anything I doubt it's any worse than some of the other products out there for this purpose.

However, it's just a suggestion that has increased the life of both my frets and strings.
I guess I'll have to add: "Use at your own risk!", if you're uncomfortable with the idea.

Take care! :D
 
My formula is: Stainless frets, Sperzel locking tuners, using FastFret before and after playing, and Snake Oil Brand Strings. I can get 3 months out of a set of strings, easily, and once the strings stretch I usually only have to tune a little before I play (and I'm a string bendin' fool).
 
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