Help ID of MK II ?

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KentP

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Hello all,

The amp in the attached photos was owned by my late brother. I'm finally getting around to selling it and with the help of this forum and other online resources I'm pretty sure its a Mark II C based on its serial number but would appreciate any comments if you'all think otherwise.

Thanks in advance,

Kent








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If you are selling it it is better than a IIC as the '+' over the power cord almost assuredly means it is IIC+.

A loop test can confirm that.

Sorry to hear about your brother. He had good taste in amps.
 
Thanks, I did see the + written above the cord but thought the +'s had a later serial number. I did find a long dialog on this site regarding ID ing of the MK II C+ which discussed performing a loop test. I see if I can find it again and do the test.

Yeah, my brother was a good musician....loved the blues.....

I under-estimated the weight of this amp when I took it down the steps in front of his house after he died.....The lift gave me a hernia !
 
That speaker is 20lb alone.

Don't go by the serial when the amp is that close to a transition. Iirc the loop test is discussed in the Mark IIC+ for dummies thread. It could be a mod but a plus is a plus is a plus. You might want to reach out to the factory to see if they have service records of the amp.

The sale price might get dinged for not having the graphic EQ even tho these are often the better amps.

People will also ask you what pre-amp board it has so if you are comfortable doing so pull the chassis and take pics of it all. Pre-amp board should be Mesa RP-10. Keep fingers away from the big light blue or silver cans (capacitors) just in case and of course the amp should be unplugged.

For what it's worth, no pun intended, you might want to hang onto that if you have any kids that are musically inclined. It's better than money in the stock market or i-bonds.
 
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Yea from the "dummies" guide #12337 appears to be the lowest factory "+" documented, but I understand there were those who had purchased a "C" and were offered the + upgrade for free. It has the "pull deep" faceplate which is nice either way, although late production, non-eq "Cs" had them. But yes, the loop test is definitive.

It would also be good to take a pic of the top of the transformer to document the part #. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the responses here.
I just did a loop test and based on the results the amp is a MK II C +.
I tried for a bit to access the top of the amp board. Pulled the four top screws, pulled off the speaker cloth and what I saw is that I'd need to remove the tubes to slide out the board. Probably do-able if I methodically remove each tube and mark it so I can replace them and still have a working amp. I pulled one tube to to experiment....Says its made in Russia which confirms a receipt I have dated 1993 for four "soviet" tubes and clips.

I'm a tad hesitant at this late hour in the day to play surgeon. May think on it. I don't know if its a crucial bit of knowledge for a buyer ?

EM, thanks for the investment advice ....no kids, I'm 70 and this amp needs a new home.

Cheers,

kent
 
Thanks for the responses here.
I just did a loop test and based on the results the amp is a MK II C +.
I tried for a bit to access the top of the amp board. Pulled the four top screws, pulled off the speaker cloth and what I saw is that I'd need to remove the tubes to slide out the board. Probably do-able if I methodically remove each tube and mark it so I can replace them and still have a working amp. I pulled one tube to to experiment....Says its made in Russia which confirms a receipt I have dated 1993 for four "soviet" tubes and clips.

I'm a tad hesitant at this late hour in the day to play surgeon. May think on it. I don't know if its a crucial bit of knowledge for a buyer ?

EM, thanks for the investment advice ....no kids, I'm 70 and this amp needs a new home.

Cheers,

kent
Pulling the tubes is a good idea. You also need to unplug the fan and reverb cables from the bottom and the speaker on back.

With the 4 screws out you can gently pull the chassis out the back. Hold onto the transformers, lift ever so slightly and watch for hangups on the tolex at the top corners.

Someone here may be interested in a DR (simul-class, reverb) IIC+. I would be if price wasn't so steep. It's an easy sell and you will get a fair price on an auction which is normally a bad idea price-wise if you go that route.
 
If you have a mirror on an extension like an auto mechanic uses….. put it under the larger transformer and see what the numbers on the bottom say. If you see a 105 in there it’s an original IIC+. If you see a 100 it’s a IIC that was upgraded to a C+

If you take off the back panel you could probably see the numbers using a flashlight. Or even without a flashlight
 
As of today this amp is resting comfortably at Mesa Engineering in Petaluma for a look over before I list it for sale. Mike Bendinelli, the main MK II tech, is backlogged 2 to 3 months. so.....I wait.......
 
As of today this amp is resting comfortably at Mesa Engineering in Petaluma for a look over before I list it for sale. Mike Bendinelli, the main MK II tech, is backlogged 2 to 3 months. so.....I wait.......
Good move, that will shut up the lowballers.
 
Thanks for the responses here.
I just did a loop test and based on the results the amp is a MK II C +.
I tried for a bit to access the top of the amp board. Pulled the four top screws, pulled off the speaker cloth and what I saw is that I'd need to remove the tubes to slide out the board. Probably do-able if I methodically remove each tube and mark it so I can replace them and still have a working amp. I pulled one tube to to experiment....Says its made in Russia which confirms a receipt I have dated 1993 for four "soviet" tubes and clips.

I'm a tad hesitant at this late hour in the day to play surgeon. May think on it. I don't know if its a crucial bit of knowledge for a buyer ?

EM, thanks for the investment advice ....no kids, I'm 70 and this amp needs a new home.

Cheers,

kent
If you’re not in an area with a ton of musicians you could try selling on Reverb.com or consign with a local shop. Reverb.com will give you some ideas about asking prices.
 

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