Yes, and removing the cone - or even just blocking it up, I've seen people try this too - will greatly reduce the power handling because the voice coil can no longer cool itself properly. It will blow, and when it does your amp will go from load to no load at high power, which is about the worst thing you can do to it.
There is another way which will sound really weird but it *is* actually workable, if you either do the math or have a multimeter to check the resistance. Get an old electric heater - if you find a 1000W one, it will have a resistance of about 14 ohms. (Resistance = voltage squared divided by power, so at 120V a 1000W heater has a resistance of 120x120/1000 = 14.4 ohms.) This is actually about the right resistance to use for a 8-16 ohm dummy load - tube amps are not that fussy, and resistive loads are inherently less stressful anyway. Next, if the heater has a switch, it's best to bypass it so it doesn't accidentally get turned off - which will make it an open circuit, not good. Finally, cut off the AC wall plug and fit a 1/4" plug, and you're good to go.
I'm really not kidding, and there's no danger whatever of something like that blowing because even a 100W amp is putting only a fraction of the power it was designed for into it. Obviously if you find a 2000W appliance - it doesn't even have to be a heater, a kettle or some other electrical heating device will work just as well, provided you make sure it's permanently switched on - you can use that as a 4-8 ohm load. Check the resistance if you're unsure, to make sure you're in the right ballpark.
This isn't a joke, but make sure you know what you're doing! Running a tube amp with no load can fry it.