Doing an Online Sale Right - IIC+

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Chickentown

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I'm a IIC+ owner considering selling. It is a great amp, but overkill for me.

So I've got experience selling things on ebay, but never a sale of this magnitude. You guys are afficianatos and have probably seen sales done well and sales done poorly. Any tips you have would be appreciated.

First, I know enough to list the serial number and to specify that my amp is IIC -> IIC+. The owner before me bought it in '84 and took delivery right before the "+" became available. He immediately sent it back for the mod.

Here's where I could use some advice:

- Shipping. It is a combo in a flight case. I've never shipped an amp in a flight case, so how much exterior packing is needed? Do boxes hold up with this kind of weight in them?

- Expectations about $$. I need to get clear on whether or not to sell. I'd rather not just slap it out there on ebay with a low reserve and be disappointed in what the market is for a modded IIC. I guess if anybody can venture a guess +/- a few hundred dollars it could give me a starting point. (combo, wood+wicker, simulclass, eq, verb, black shadow, foot channel switch, original slip cover, lifelong flight case resident, excellent condition but the slip cover is disintegrating)

- The photos. What pictures do you like to see for a mesa auction? I would certainly give the serial, the markings by the power cord and overall condition photos. What "guts" do you I need to display?

- Shipping provider. Who is the best for shipping heavy amps?

Thank you for the help!
Jamie
 
I'm in no way an expert like many people here, but;

- Does it have the international power transformator?

- Fedex is very reliable.
 
Ok, the international one would make it slightly more valued, to the best of my knowledge, but it should still be in the $ 3000 +/- range.
 
$3000 sounds like the current market value.

You should list details of the amp such as the features it has (simul, etc.); serial number; 105 transformer or 101 transformer; date of production; serial effects loop test; condition of the amp; tubes; if it has been serviced; verification of the mods (if you have 'em), if not people can call the factory and ask...As much info as you can. However, I would recommend you "X" out the last digit of any numbers scammers may use, such as serial number.

Pictures: typically a nice shot of the front and back, and close ups of the back panel. Also, close ups of any scratches, dings, etc.
 
OK, so there is some disagreement about the value of a IIC -> IIC+. Did the two posters assume this was an original IIC+? What is the drop-off in value from original to modded?

Thanks for the critical info and photos tips!

So I can just call Mesa and someone will take the time look up my amp and give the history? I'll have to do that.

How about this whole shipping issue? Is it kosher to single box with a couple inches of packing material around sides if the amp is in a flight case? Jeez, does a cardboard box hold up with this kind of weight in it?

This is great - thank you all so much,
Jamie
 
Well despite being a C->C+, he has hardwood, a flight case, loaded options, original slip cover, footswitch, as new condition, etc. All that adds up IMO. Plus the fact it's a 1984 that was modded immediately.

That's why I say $3000. If it lacks the 105 though, I'd knock off some $.

I wouldn't go lower than 2800.
 
Most is already said, but there are a couple of things I'd like to mention:

First of all, make sure all the text and descriptions are written in a way that people know for sure that you're a reliable seller. (grammar, form, language, etc.) I usually stray away from sellers that type like they were in 6th grade.

List all the features on the amp (graphic eq, simul-class, etc) and the serial number, as already said.

However, no matter how credible your descriptions are, buyers will always want good pictures, as proof. Good photos are very important. I've figured that it's best to shoot in daylight, as the object will appear in it's most natural colors, and ditch the flash. Also try to get them as sharp as possible and in large resolution from a decent sensor to capture as much details as possible. As mentioned, a good shot from the front and back, and close ups of any dings or scratches. A good angle shot can also attract many IIC+ droolers.

If you're up to it, you can also try to include a gut shot. Take out the chassis and take a birdseye shot of the insides. Try to get everything in there. Either flash or daylight is good as long as you get as much details as possible. This is for all the Boogie snobs that need to check for mods and other stuff. Shoot from a stand (if you have one) if you have shaky hands.

Here are a couple of shots of my IIC+ which in my opinion are very decent ones. Check'em out!

Overall shots:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/Octavarius/DSCN0421.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/Octavarius/DSCN0420.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/Octavarius/DSCN0431.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/Octavarius/DSCN0434.jpg

Detail:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/Octavarius/DSCN0423.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/Octavarius/DSCN0425.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/Octavarius/DSCN0435.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/Octavarius/DSCN0441.jpg

Gut shot:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/Octavarius/FullGutshot.jpg


Shipping new tubes (fine with stock Mesa's) with your amp is also a very nice gesture when you're selling it. If not, mention how much hours the current ones have. Also remember to clean it up nicely (any dust and dirt from corners inside the cab and such). Nobody likes having fingersweat-grime all over the knobs on their new (old) amp. At least I don't, but it's not that big a deal if it's decently clean. After all, it is an old amp.

Does it have the 105 tranny? (105 is the domestic Simul-Class tranny, and the X101 is the export/international. You can check; the number stampled on the bottomside of the transformer will tell you what kind it is:


The IIC+ Guide for Dummies by Boogiebabies said:
The Schumacher Transformers –

The digits 606 are Schumacher’s EIA manufacturer code.

The digits after are the last number of the production year, example, 3 is 1983. The next two digits are the week of productions, example, 42 is the 42’nd week of 1983. It’s not the Fibonacci Sequence, trust me. EIA 606-342.

60W OT - T60-152019
Simul Output - SC-152019B – Simul-Class

60W PT - 00-162310
60W Export - PT: X62-162318
Simul/60-100 Power - 105-162318
X101-162318 – Export

Some early IIC+’s may have leftover 100 power transformers.


If so, I guess $2800 - $3000 is a fair price if the hardwood is in good condition. Plus you have the footswitch and documents and all.

Ok, I think I covered it all. Good luck with your auction!
 

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