Dead Mark III

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Guitar Adjuster

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I found a nice MK III black dot at a local shop but it's dead? The owner says it use to work fine but just quit qorking 6/8 months ago and has been sitting on a back shelf ever since. I Put in a new fuse thinking that might do the trick, and still nothing, it won't power on, indicator will not light up. There is power going to the head as you can use the accessory plug on the back and it works. All tubes look good. Any idea what might be the problem? I can pick this thing up cheap ($600) but am afraid it might be something major.....

Thanks,

Allen
 
If the tubes light up, run a jumper cable grom the effects send to the return.
The pilot lights do go bad and it just may be a coincidence.

The worst case scenario is the secondary on the PT has an internal short.
The fan and accessory socket run off the primary, or the 117V wall voltage.
 
None of the tubes would light up.....could it be the switch? This head was on layaway for 8 months and prior to going into layway it worked fine so I am thinking maybe it got dropped or knocked around in the storage room or something.
 
My best advice is to forget about it. I say that because a Mark 3 in proper working order sells for between $750.00 and $800.00 and $600.00 for one that wont even power up is too high.

If you can get it for $400.00 then go for it. OR unless you are an electrical technician don't get into a financial hole
 
Guitar Adjuster said:
None of the tubes would light up.....could it be the switch? This head was on layaway for 8 months and prior to going into layway it worked fine so I am thinking maybe it got dropped or knocked around in the storage room or something.

Sure.

The PT is nearly the same as the Dual Rectifier, but with an extra 5V heater tap for the recifier tubes.

Unless I had it in my hands to look at, I would not screw with it.
The parts are probably not even worth 1/4 the asking price with questionable transformers. Worst case, buy it with a written return and go to Grainger and get a Carling 110. It has screw contacts instead of solder, but it will do in a pinch. Solder/Screw it in and see if she lights up.
If not, put the old switch in and bring it back.
 
I think I will pass, at another store I found a used MK IV wide body combo in excellent condition that sounds great. I put that in lay away, hopefully will get it out in a few weeks. Thanks for all the help.
 
A year ago I paid $650 for a working MkIII Simulclass long head. Peronaly, I wouldn't give more than $200 for a non working MkIII.
 
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