Change the V1 tube. How?

[Vittrup]

Hi.
What is the easiest way to change the V1 tube? It's not so easy to reach from the back.

 

[jb's 52]

Hi.
What is the easiest way to change the V1 tube? It's not so easy to reach from the back.

This an issue on a head or combo?

I find the V1 easy to change on a combo, but I got small hands

 

[Vittrup]

Hi.
What is the easiest way to change the V1 tube? It's not so easy to reach from the back.

This an issue on a head or combo?

I find the V1 easy to change on a combo, but I got small hands

Hi jb's 52.

Its a head! Not much room for a hand there.

 

[Vittrup]

Is it possible to remove the faceplate? It is mounted with four screws.
I tried to unskrew them. But the plate was not immediately loose?
Should I just take a hard hold of it?

 

[lesterpaul]

standing the head on its side...and then, you might get real creative and turn it in many different directions...upside down....just resist the temptation to throw the head and/or tube through the nearest window...and, as always....drink heavily(is that from ANIMAL HOUSE??)...
-pay attention to the location of where the key/gap is located when you pull it out..diagram it for future replacements

 

[domct203]

Is it possible to remove the faceplate? It is mounted with four screws.
I tried to unskrew them. But the plate was not immediately loose?
Should I just take a hard hold of it?

That's not going to help, there is a solid piece of plywood behind the grill.

standing the head on its side...and then, you might get real creative and turn it in many different directions...upside down....just resist the temptation to throw the head and/or tube through the nearest window...and, as always....drink heavily(is that from ANIMAL HOUSE??)...
-pay attention to the location of where the key/gap is located when you pull it out..diagram it for future replacements

^ That's it, minus the drinking for me

Dom

 

[Vittrup]

standing the head on its side...and then, you might get real creative and turn it in many different directions...upside down....just resist the temptation to throw the head and/or tube through the nearest window...and, as always....drink heavily(is that from ANIMAL HOUSE??)...
-pay attention to the location of where the key/gap is located when you pull it out..diagram it for future replacements

*LOL* Sound like..........ther is no easy way!

At least give it a reason to drink!

 

[Vittrup]

Is it possible to remove the faceplate? It is mounted with four screws.
I tried to unskrew them. But the plate was not immediately loose?
Should I just take a hard hold of it?

That's not going to help, there is a solid piece of plywood behind the grill.

standing the head on its side...and then, you might get real creative and turn it in many different directions...upside down....just resist the temptation to throw the head and/or tube through the nearest window...and, as always....drink heavily(is that from ANIMAL HOUSE??)...
-pay attention to the location of where the key/gap is located when you pull it out..diagram it for future replacements

^ That's it, minus the drinking for me

Dom

Ok! Thanks for the answer

 

[lesterpaul]

Is it possible to remove the faceplate? It is mounted with four screws.
I tried to unskrew them. But the plate was not immediately loose?
Should I just take a hard hold of it?

remember hearing from a board member back in the day that they were going to take a keyhole saw to the wood behind the grill and make a hole to make the change easier...but warranty and resale could suffer

 

[lesterpaul]

http://forum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=59668
****...HOW DID WE MISS THIS?(a few threads down...)-must be the mercurial title

 

[Vittrup]

Is it possible to remove the faceplate? It is mounted with four screws.
I tried to unskrew them. But the plate was not immediately loose?
Should I just take a hard hold of it?

remember hearing from a board member back in the day that they were going to take a keyhole saw to the wood behind the grill and make a hole to make the change easier...but warranty and resale could suffer

Ok! It'd better wait until the warranty has run out!

 

[SteveO]

Pull the reverb tank.

 

[Vittrup]

Pull the reverb tank.

Yes. SteveO! I've actually thought about something like that. maybe you could fix a few things so it would be easy to snap on and off.

 

[domct203]

Pull the reverb tank.

Hmm, never thought of that.......... Great Tip!

Dom

 

[babow2]

I just retubed and pulled the chassis out of the head. It really doesn't take very long to pull the chassis, and then it is very easy to replace tubes.

 

[Vittrup]

I just retubed and pulled the chassis out of the head. It really doesn't take very long to pull the chassis, and then it is very easy to replace tubes.

But I do not quite understand? Reverb tank is fastened with four screws from inside the cabinet. You can not just get to, turning them inside out? Or .................. should I understand it so, that you do not use the reverb and therefore does not need a reverb tank?

 

[domct203]

I just retubed and pulled the chassis out of the head. It really doesn't take very long to pull the chassis, and then it is very easy to replace tubes.

But I do not quite understand? Reverb tank is fastened with four screws from inside the cabinet. You can not just get to, turning them inside out? Or .................. should I understand it so, that you do not use the reverb and therefore does not need a reverb tank?

You are correct Vittrup, the reverb tank is attached from inside the head cabinet and cannot be easily removed with the chassis installed in the head cabinet. I guess it was too good to be true :lol:

The chassis is the amplifer itself, and can be removed from the head cabinet for service, tube changes, etc.

Removing (pulling) the chassis is really the best way to change V1. Remove the powertubes first so you do not break one. Then there are 4 screws on top to remove, and a support screw under the power transformer. I find it easier to put the head on a table up-side-down (on a towel or soft cloth), with the top of the amp over-hanging the table so I can remove the 2 screws on that side. Then I spin the amp 180 degrees and remove the opposite 2 screws. Then I'll release the support screw from the PT by first loosening the jam nut that is against the headshell (you might need to also hold the top of the support screw with a second wrench) then turning the support screw away from the PT about an 1/8", and gently slide the chassis out of the cabinet.

When re-installing the chassis, reverse what I did above except for the support screw under the PT. Install and tighten the 4 chassis screws first, then turn the support screw until it firmly touches the PT, then hold it there with a wrench while you tighten the jam nut.

DO NOT go poking around inside the chassis. There are LETHEAL VOLTAGES stored in the power caps, even when unplugged overnight!

Dom

 

[Vittrup]

I just retubed and pulled the chassis out of the head. It really doesn't take very long to pull the chassis, and then it is very easy to replace tubes.

But I do not quite understand? Reverb tank is fastened with four screws from inside the cabinet. You can not just get to, turning them inside out? Or .................. should I understand it so, that you do not use the reverb and therefore does not need a reverb tank?

You are correct Vittrup, the reverb tank is attached from inside the head cabinet and cannot be easily removed with the chassis installed in the head cabinet. I guess it was too good to be true :lol:

The chassis is the amplifer itself, and can be removed from the head cabinet for service, tube changes, etc.

Removing (pulling) the chassis is really the best way to change V1. Remove the powertubes first so you do not break one. Then there are 4 screws on top to remove, and a support screw under the power transformer. I find it easier to put the head on a table up-side-down (on a towel or soft cloth), with the top of the amp over-hanging the table so I can remove the 2 screws on that side. Then I spin the amp 180 degrees and remove the opposite 2 screws. Then I'll release the support screw from the PT by first loosening the jam nut that is against the headshell (you might need to also hold the top of the support screw with a second wrench) then turning the support screw away from the PT about an 1/8", and gently slide the chassis out of the cabinet.

When re-installing the chassis, reverse what I did above except for the support screw under the PT. Install and tighten the 4 chassis screws first, then turn the support screw until it firmly touches the PT, then hold it there with a wrench while you tighten the jam nut.

DO NOT go poking around inside the chassis. There are LETHEAL VOLTAGES stored in the power caps, even when unplugged overnight!

Dom

Thaks for you answer, domct203

Yes! It was also the way I used myself. But I had hoped for an easier way to do it. But who has promised that life would be easy?

 

[Vittrup]

:idea: Just a thought: If we now replace the screws to the reverb tank but Allan screws, you will probably be able to screw the tank loose with a long Allen wrench, without picking something out of the cabinet? :idea: