Sixstringpsycho
Well-known member
exactly as the title states. I would like to investigate the possibility of making my DC5 combo into a head. any ideas?
Anyone know how to convert a DC5 from combo to a head?
- Thread starter Sixstringpsycho
- Start date
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i was thinking about this, this past weekend. I have dont this to a Fender 4x10 blues deville, i turned it into a "head", although the verticle chassis is very tall, so it was not so compact.
What i did was basically strip the chassis, cut to bottom, removed midddle space, then dowel rod up the top and bottom, glues and set. I also added some internal corner runners ( think a 1"x1" piece of wood that follows the inside bottom corner and is screwed into both the top and bottom. You see this a lot is crappy box contruction, but it, plus the dowels, created a pretty solid construction. Prob the most dificult think would be cutting the bottom, and removing the middle evenly. If you dont get it so even, you will just need to add time for sanding, but you can get it spot on with some effort. If youd like, you can even leave to bottom feather joint. What i mean is, rather than cutting off the bottom so you have just a board, you cut about 2 inches from the bottom, so you are left with a bottom piece that is really a "U" shape. you can then certainly dowel that to the top, but you might want to add some interior bracing.
For the dowels, there are many companies out there that sell ready made jiggs, so you can line everyhting up easily. usually they will sell a kit that is made just for 3/4" board...just look for a kit that makes sense for your application. you just line everyhting up, make marks, place in the jig, drill the hole on both boards, set with glue. Some wood glues are solid as a rock.
Dont know how into wood working you are, but i hope what i offered helps. Also for recovering, i have tried tolex glue, as well as spray off adhesive, and i ahve to say the spray off has always worked better for me. 3M super 77, you just spray and lay! any overspray comes up immediatly with mineral spirits, even after it has dried. Tolex glue just takes to long to set up. Also, once you staple the edges, it does make to much difference.
What i did was basically strip the chassis, cut to bottom, removed midddle space, then dowel rod up the top and bottom, glues and set. I also added some internal corner runners ( think a 1"x1" piece of wood that follows the inside bottom corner and is screwed into both the top and bottom. You see this a lot is crappy box contruction, but it, plus the dowels, created a pretty solid construction. Prob the most dificult think would be cutting the bottom, and removing the middle evenly. If you dont get it so even, you will just need to add time for sanding, but you can get it spot on with some effort. If youd like, you can even leave to bottom feather joint. What i mean is, rather than cutting off the bottom so you have just a board, you cut about 2 inches from the bottom, so you are left with a bottom piece that is really a "U" shape. you can then certainly dowel that to the top, but you might want to add some interior bracing.
For the dowels, there are many companies out there that sell ready made jiggs, so you can line everyhting up easily. usually they will sell a kit that is made just for 3/4" board...just look for a kit that makes sense for your application. you just line everyhting up, make marks, place in the jig, drill the hole on both boards, set with glue. Some wood glues are solid as a rock.
Dont know how into wood working you are, but i hope what i offered helps. Also for recovering, i have tried tolex glue, as well as spray off adhesive, and i ahve to say the spray off has always worked better for me. 3M super 77, you just spray and lay! any overspray comes up immediatly with mineral spirits, even after it has dried. Tolex glue just takes to long to set up. Also, once you staple the edges, it does make to much difference.
ALSO!! when you are cutting, dont forget about the total height of the cabinet. You need to remember to leave space to pull the power tubes, else you will be having to pull the chassis everyime you need to pull them out. not a big deal, just kinda a pain.
madryan
Well-known member
Just call Mesa and order a headshell. Then sell your combo shell and recoup some of the money.
madryan said:
Or, post a thread here in the Boogie Classified's.
It's a 'Medium' sized head, which means that the following amps use the same cab:
Nomad 55
Blue Angel
DC-5
F-50
Mark IV Widebody
Mark III Widebody
.50 Cal
So, you have lots of amps that can provide a cabinet. Maybe someone here wants to trade.
I also see them on ebay very often.
A new one from Mesa will be about $400 or so and take up to 6 weeks.
Mine was a head when I got it, but the cab was really messed up, so I put it in a Mark IV combo body and never looked back.
Sixstringpsycho
Well-known member
Thanks guys, imma post a thread and check Ebay since all those casings will house my amp, Monsta thanks for that info.
No worries. Glad to help.
Green2002
Member
I found this web site http://www.mccustomcabinets.com/index.php?p=1_1 This guy makes great looking australian hard wood custom cabs and head shells and ships them world wide. I'm thinking of getting him to make a head shell for my DC 5 and a 2 x 12 cab. Any ideas were i can find plans fo the DC 5 head shell??? I'm too lazy to measure up my combo box.
