Anyone convert their MKIII to a MKIII+ (IIC+)

[edgecrusher]

Looking forward to hearing how this turns out man, I love the way my red stripe cuts through in the band mix and I don't want lose the aggressive Mark III character, but at the same time a bit less fizz would be nice. I have keep my presence at 0-2 to tame the harshness.

 

[silentrage]

Ok put in both pin 6 and 7 Caps, pin 7 I think made the biggest difference, because I heard the instant it happen when I nudged it into place. I didn't hear as much of a difference with 6, but I'm inclined to think Mike B knows what he's talking about when it comes to this.
This mod only affects the lead channel, and after the mod I was able to push up the treble pot from 5 to 7, the top EQ slider about 1/8 of the way up, and the presence from 0 - 2, to get the original sharpness back with noticably less fizz than before.
Hope that was help to you guys.

 

[boogiemon]

could someone tell me what value is represented by .002M?
my black stripe has:

a 20pf @ C27,
a 0.01 @ C516
& in the C30 position there's this ".002M/1KV" cap.

thnx.

Yes ofcourse i can. I would have done so earlier but i was not at home then

1) C27 : 10 pf should be stock - replace it with a 20 pf capacitor.

This mod is quite common and already known here i think. It smooths out the clean channel and affects all other channels as well. I like that mod, because you can turn the treble knob at about 7 or even 8 without the clean sound sounding too snappy,

2) C30 (near V3) : 500 pf should be stock there - replace it with 1000 pf to smooth out the lead channel.

3) C516 (In presence control circuit) : 0.01 microfarat should be stock - replace it with 0.005 microfarat. The presence control works different afterwards. I set it normally around 3. At 5 it is still usable for distortion. And at 7 it starts sound really bright.

These mods do change the amp a lot - but you can still make it sound bright if you want to. Raise the eq on the treble side and or set the presence higher. The difference is mainly that distortion sounds in general more vocal and not as trebly.

I had this modification done to a mesa mark iii simul class red stripe. When i called Mike B. i told him that i wanted to get better smooth high gain sounds (like Petrucci or Vai ...).

I now use the amp with an engl 1x12" (v30) cab and i have to say that although i thought sometimes about a change in equipment i have not found an amp that i really liked better. It is more versatile and sounds more organic than an old two channel dual recitifier of a friend of mine(Although bouth can be dialled in to sound similar). It a bit more vocal than my second amp, an engl thunder head (A really simple and very good amp!). The only amp i liked somewhat more so far is a mark IV i played at a store in Denmark. It is more versatile for live use and sounded similar and good on the distortion channel. However - it is quite expensive here in Germany

Feel free to ask any other questions about the mod if you like ,
ahoi

 

[Direwolf]

Fwiw guys I have a III+ that used to be a purple stripe and I have a regular III green stripe. You couldn't give me enough money to part with my III+. I now use the green stripe as a back up and practice amp. Obviously there are differences between the stripes themselves and I have never played a stock purple stripe to compare to my green. I can say that the III+ is a little more responsive to picking attack than the other. The over all tone seems to be a little more organic and less sterile than the green as well. Here again this is subjective and is my opinion but I will be sending my green stripe in to be modded to + specs whenever I can afford it. I personally prefer the III+ sound over the stock III. My bag isn't metal but if it was this amp would deliver in spades. When I first started playing guitar I was into Metallica and other metal bands. I got more of a Master of Puppets tone with the + than the green stripe to my ears. Everyones perception of tone varys. If you are happy with your current rig then I wouldn't change it. If you're a tone freak that doesn't mind the eternal quest for the Grail then having a III+ in your arsenal wont be a bad option either. Thats just my 2 cents. :mrgreen:

 

[JOEY B.]

Mike B. recently modded my Mark III.......... "you could still pick out the IIC+ blindfolded, but the tone is close and very good."

I had a green stripe Mark III that I did the C30 mod to and added a Pentode/Triode switch to the outer power tube sockets. It smoothed out the treble and gave it that "triode bounce", but I will still agree with Mike's statement. Close, but no cigar. :twisted:

 

[willrock]

i have a red stripe at mike b's hands right now for repair/tune-up, this IIIc+ mod is putting a chip on my brain! ,,,,,,,,,,,, nah, i'll do the c27 or c30 mod myself.. i like the way the red stripe sounded to begin with before i sent it to boogie, i assume its just gonna get better after the cap changes and over-all maintenance! i had him done the pentode/triode mod though! ssssweet! cant wait to get that baby back!

 

[frets70]

Is there a certain voltage requirement for these caps (C27, C30, C516)? or will standard carbon/poly type caps work?

I know some Mallory caps will do 200v-600v but is it necessary to use this high of voltage.

Any help here would be appreciated.

 

[frets70]

Ok did the C30 mod today--It was easy--I really like it. My loaded Green Stripe did not have a cap in the c30 position-it was never installed- so I could easily reverse it if I choose to do so.

My c516 was already a .005uf and I didn't do the Clean Channel C27 cap change.

THE RESULTS:

The tone is more organic, throaty somewhere in between a Mark IIC+/ IV.

The presence is so much more usable, and the tone seems to stay more consistent with tweaks. Before I could lose a sound pretty easy with the wrong tweak

I think there is a little less gain (overdrive) in the lead channel. But the tone makes up for it.

One cool thing is that when you turn down the lead drive from lets say 8 to 4 the tone doesn't change.

I say to all do it!!!!

 

[boogiemon]

please?

could someone tell me what value is represented by .002M?
my black stripe has:

a 20pf @ C27,
a 0.01 @ C516
& in the C30 position there's this ".002M/1KV" cap.

thnx.

Yes ofcourse i can. I would have done so earlier but i was not at home then

1) C27 : 10 pf should be stock - replace it with a 20 pf capacitor.

This mod is quite common and already known here i think. It smooths out the clean channel and affects all other channels as well. I like that mod, because you can turn the treble knob at about 7 or even 8 without the clean sound sounding too snappy,

2) C30 (near V3) : 500 pf should be stock there - replace it with 1000 pf to smooth out the lead channel.

3) C516 (In presence control circuit) : 0.01 microfarat should be stock - replace it with 0.005 microfarat. The presence control works different afterwards. I set it normally around 3. At 5 it is still usable for distortion. And at 7 it starts sound really bright.

These mods do change the amp a lot - but you can still make it sound bright if you want to. Raise the eq on the treble side and or set the presence higher. The difference is mainly that distortion sounds in general more vocal and not as trebly.

I had this modification done to a mesa mark iii simul class red stripe. When i called Mike B. i told him that i wanted to get better smooth high gain sounds (like Petrucci or Vai ...).

I now use the amp with an engl 1x12" (v30) cab and i have to say that although i thought sometimes about a change in equipment i have not found an amp that i really liked better. It is more versatile and sounds more organic than an old two channel dual recitifier of a friend of mine(Although bouth can be dialled in to sound similar). It a bit more vocal than my second amp, an engl thunder head (A really simple and very good amp!). The only amp i liked somewhat more so far is a mark IV i played at a store in Denmark. It is more versatile for live use and sounded similar and good on the distortion channel. However - it is quite expensive here in Germany

Feel free to ask any other questions about the mod if you like ,
ahoi

 

[frets70]

Form what I have learned (and I am no electronic guru) sometimes micro is labeled as M

.002M = .002uf (micro farad) same value as 2000pf 1000V

I used a .001uf today same as 1000pf

here is a conversion chart for values:
http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/data/capacitor/capacitor_conversion_chart.php

I would say if you have a black stripe-you are closer than any other Mark III.

Please gurus chime in, hope this helps.

 

[>Photi G<]

After hearing so many good reviews about the III+ mod, I thought I'd try it. However, I want to retain the brightness in the Rhythm 1 channel, and smooth out the gain in the Lead channel. Is that possible, or do both capacitors need to be swapped for the difference to become apparent? Also, can I "operate" on the guts without removing the PCB, and solder from the topside of the board, or do I need to undo the connections, and solder from the bottom?

Also, Is there a mod for increasing the gain of Rhythm 2? I always have trouble having a pristine clean, while still having enough signal to drive Rhythm 2 and Lead.

 

[frets70]

I carefully soldered from the top side did not remove the pc board but I didn't have to remove a cap from the C30 position-might be more difficult to remove one then resolder a new one.

I too left my clean channel untouched as I also like the bright character of it.

I don't know much about the R2 mod operation I know it is listed in this board some where

 

[boogiemon]

thanks for the info.

...must've been up too late when i posted. My MIII is actually a "no-stripe" sn: 1543X

Form what I have learned (and I am no electronic guru) sometimes micro is labeled as M

.002M = .002uf (micro farad) same value as 2000pf 1000V

I used a .001uf today same as 1000pf

here is a conversion chart for values:
http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/data/capacitor/capacitor_conversion_chart.php

I would say if you have a black stripe-you are closer than any other Mark III.

Please gurus chime in, hope this helps.

 

[>Photi G<]

I carefully soldered from the top side did not remove the pc board but I didn't have to remove a cap from the C30 position-might be more difficult to remove one then resolder a new one.

I too left my clean channel untouched as I also like the bright character of it.

I don't know much about the R2 mod operation I know it is listed in this board some where

How do you like it? does it affect the smoothness of the Lead channel at all?

and I wasn't talking about the R2 Volume Mod. I'm quite happy on the balance between all three channels.

I'd probably feel that a better job could be done by soldering from the underside. But I am scared of disconnecting anything, and getting shocked. Maybe I'll have it done by a professional after all, if money isn't an issue.

 

[frets70]

The lead channel is alot smoother but still can get bright if you want it to. What I noticed is that I didn't want to quit playing--but it was too loud in my little house! But boy does it have TONE 8)

In my preivous post I said I think it sounds somewhere between a IIC+ and a Mark IV

As far as soldering from the top side--I have never pulled a Mark PCB out--but you can see it has tube sockets soldered from one direction and components soldered from the other. Just melt the solder on the pad and push the component in the hole, can't tell a difference, looks like it was installed in there from the factory.

Here is what I did--and I am not an pro amp tech--let the amp sit for a couple days, take chassis out (carefully) measure voltage on all large filter caps (with DMM ground connected to chassis as ground)--I had 3 caps that had about 25V each.
I use an 18GA 3ft piece of wire with an alligator clip on each end and a 1k 2 watt resistor soldered in the middle.

Put one end on the chassis as ground and touch the other end to the positive side of the cap, for a couple secs. (you can put the alligator clip on a chop stick so you don't have your fingers in there). Then measure the caps again with the DMM.

When there is no voltage you are safe to work- IF YOU HAVE NO IDEA WHAT ANY OF THIS MEANS DON"T DO IT YOURSELF, EDUCATE YOURSELF FIRST, or GET SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT YOU CAN GET SHOCKED BY MORE THAN 300VDC WHICH CAN KILL YOU :shock:

 

[>Photi G<]

Thanks, I'm more confident in doing this myself now. I do understand draining the filter caps. What I need help on is the following:

When draining the power from them, Do I need to drain each of the four individually, or are they wired in series so I can do all of them in one shot?
What about the three other caps on the main board?
Instead of waiting a few days for the amp to drain itself, can I just leave the standby on after turning the mains off, and wait until there is no more sound coming out of the amp?
When draining the filter caps, when I ground them to the chassis, does the chassis have to be grounded, or plugged in to the wall?

 

[frets70]

PM'd you Photi G

 

[Neptical]

i have a red stripe at mike b's hands right now for repair/tune-up, this IIIc+ mod is putting a chip on my brain! ,,,,,,,,,,,, nah, i'll do the c27 or c30 mod myself.. i like the way the red stripe sounded to begin with before i sent it to boogie, i assume its just gonna get better after the cap changes and over-all maintenance! i had him done the pentode/triode mod though! ssssweet! cant wait to get that baby back!

What's up, Willrock.

I have a Mark III ' red stripe' head that I absolutely love, no mods even. 8)

With a nice set of Svet 34s and some T-Sols in the preamp, the beast is butter smooth with a nice tight focused punch. My other III (purple) has some old Tesla 34s and old 415s running with some newer EH in the preamp. Silky smooth. While the red stripe is more aggressive and the purple is more 'laid back', I'm completely happy with them in their original state. Just swapping tubes in these pups can make all the difference in the world.

While I'm all curious on the III+, I'd be too hestiant to ever make the move. It would be nice to hear some side by sides.

All the Best
~Nep~

 

[willrock]

i have a red stripe at mike b's hands right now for repair/tune-up, this IIIc+ mod is putting a chip on my brain! ,,,,,,,,,,,, nah, i'll do the c27 or c30 mod myself.. i like the way the red stripe sounded to begin with before i sent it to boogie, i assume its just gonna get better after the cap changes and over-all maintenance! i had him done the pentode/triode mod though! ssssweet! cant wait to get that baby back!

What's up, Willrock.

I have a Mark III ' red stripe' head that I absolutely love, no mods even. 8)

With a nice set of Svet 34s and some T-Sols in the preamp, the beast is butter smooth with a nice tight focused punch. My other III (purple) has some old Tesla 34s and old 415s running with some newer EH in the preamp. Silky smooth. While the red stripe is more aggressive and the purple is more 'laid back', I'm completely happy with them in their original state. Just swapping tubes in these pups can make all the difference in the world.

While I'm all curious on the III+, I'd be too hestiant to ever make the move. It would be nice to hear some side by sides.

All the Best
~Nep~

watup nep, i just got my red stripe last week from mike and had a lot of sleepless night practicing! you are right with the tung-sols, i put one on V1 last night and it even made the III smoother.
Well here what Mike did with my red stripe, he changed bout 16 resistors, 4 diodes from the main supply (to get rid of the background hum that i was getting), changed the filter caps and 3 more electrolytics, had him install a pentode/triode swtch so if i feel frisky, i can do the "green stripe" aggresiveness! the reverb was done too. and just general cleaning of pots, board, etc... I mentioned to him that i like that red stipe the way it is sonically but i run the presence on 0 all the time and i ask him if theres a way to tame the brightness down on the lead channel just so i'd be able to use the presence knob. so he did that c30 mod i think that only affects the lead channel, he said that this particular model was based on the brighter mark IIc+ and now he changed it to be like in between the brighter and darker C+'s. With all that done he suggested to use a real cold running 6l6s on the outer pair, so he sent me a red colored mesa str 440..
Now for the sound......... well, it sounds better than my mark IV in all channels, i repeat, ALL CHANNELS, cant stretch that enough! i'll make a video soon!!

 

[Neptical]

watup nep, i just got my red stripe last week from mike and had a lot of sleepless night practicing! you are right with the tung-sols, i put one on V1 last night and it even made the III smoother.
Well here what Mike did with my red stripe, he changed bout 16 resistors, 4 diodes from the main supply (to get rid of the background hum that i was getting), changed the filter caps and 3 more electrolytics, had him install a pentode/triode swtch so if i feel frisky, i can do the "green stripe" aggresiveness! the reverb was done too. and just general cleaning of pots, board, etc... I mentioned to him that i like that red stipe the way it is sonically but i run the presence on 0 all the time and i ask him if theres a way to tame the brightness down on the lead channel just so i'd be able to use the presence knob. so he did that c30 mod i think that only affects the lead channel, he said that this particular model was based on the brighter mark IIc+ and now he changed it to be like in between the brighter and darker C+'s. With all that done he suggested to use a real cold running 6l6s on the outer pair, so he sent me a red colored mesa str 440..

Awesome, man! You definitely got hooked up.

Now for the sound......... well, it sounds better than my mark IV in all channels, i repeat, ALL CHANNELS, cant stretch that enough! i'll make a video soon!!

Gonna be honest on this one..I always thought the III sounded better in all the channels over the IV, but that's just matter of personal taste in tone really. Just wish it had the seperate channels like it though.
Don't get me wrong, I'll be on the look-out for a IV head shortly to throw into my collection. :mrgreen:

All the Best,
~Nep~