WTB pair of Mesa STR415 Red or yellow.

[parntz145]

If anyone has any to sell let me know, Not looking for used up ones.

 

[Markedman]

Did you try Mesa?

 

[parntz145]

Did you try Mesa?

Yea, Im not paying the price they are asking. I just bought a brand-new pair of 415 greens never taken out of the mesa box for $100 less than they want.

 

[gts]

Never heard of STR-415's in red or yellow?
Typically they had a green label or blue label.

Can you clarify what you are looking for?

 

[parntz145]

I'm looking for a pair that will run ok in the simul sockets of my 2c+

 

[parntz145]

I'm not talking about the color of the print on the tube. When I say red or yellow I mean the bias range.

 

[gts]

I'm not talking about the color of the print on the tube. When I say red or yellow I mean the bias range.

I've never seen coded STR-415's with a color for bias range.
Doesn't mean they didn't do it I've just never seen any in the original boxes with the bias color indicated.
But they seem to have done it for many other tubes back in the day, for example STR-420's.

Btw you can put any Mesa labeled STR-415's in the outer sockets of your C++ and you'll be fine, they'll run ok.

 

[parntz145]

I'm not talking about the color of the print on the tube. When I say red or yellow I mean the bias range.

I've never seen coded STR-415's with a color for bias range.
Doesn't mean they didn't do it I've just never seen any in the original boxes with the bias color indicated.
But they seem to have done it for many other tubes back in the day, for example STR-420's.

Btw you can put any Mesa labeled STR-415's in the outer sockets of your C++ and you'll be fine, they'll run ok.

Yea they did use the color codes. I just snagged a brand-new pair of 415 on eBay. They are brand new in the box and are color coded green. Says it on the box label and also on the tubes.

 

[gts]

I'm not talking about the color of the print on the tube. When I say red or yellow I mean the bias range.

I've never seen coded STR-415's with a color for bias range.
Doesn't mean they didn't do it I've just never seen any in the original boxes with the bias color indicated.
But they seem to have done it for many other tubes back in the day, for example STR-420's.

Btw you can put any Mesa labeled STR-415's in the outer sockets of your C++ and you'll be fine, they'll run ok.

Yea they did use the color codes. I just snagged a brand-new pair of 415 on eBay. They are brand new in the box and are color coded green. Says it on the box label and also on the tubes.

Congrats on finding the 415's! Great tubes!

Btw it's always good to find more info/ learn something (re: color coding of 415's).
Can you post some pics of the ones you got?
Asking for pics as I have a number of 415's and none have color coding markings.

 

[parntz145]

Ill try and post a PIC.

 

[RR]

just get some Sylvania 6L6s. That's all they are.

yeah, I know, easier said than to obtain. :?

But check Groove Tube and all the other tube distributors and see if they have 6L6 Sylvania.

 

[parntz145]

just get some Sylvania 6L6s. That's all they are.

yeah, I know, easier said than to obtain. :?

But check Groove Tube and all the other tube distributors and see if they have 6L6 Sylvania.

I did buy some Sylvania's also. Its just such a pain in the *** finding out if they will be the correct bias range for my amp. I bought some that I had to return because they ran to hot. I have been finding out that a lot of tube dealers don't know what bias range a Mesa or other amps need. I give them the plate voltage and tell them what percentage I want to run the tubes at and they still send the wrong tubes. Its just a lot easier finding the Mesa Labeled 415. At least you know by the color codes that stye will work.

 

[kippiejr]

Hello, My 2 cents,
Try to remember that Mesa has a 5mA variance within each range color. So with 5 different color codes from RED to WHITE could be as much as 25% difference. Mesa amps have a pretty wide bias range if you think about it. I have learned over the years with my +'s and know there ranges with a bias meter. I have only purchased 1 pair of GC6L6 USA that was to hot for my liking. Anything labeled FENDER, GROOVE TUBE, PEAVY usually fall in the range. Labeled MESA no worries for sure. Get RED or YELLOW and be Safe, get BLUE or the illusive white label and you are HOT but ok.... Do yourself a favor and get a bias probe and it will un luck the color code Mystery. The only way to know for sure is a bias probe and know the range.. Mesa amps are TANKS!!!!!

 

[parntz145]

Hello, My 2 cents,
Try to remember that Mesa has a 5mA variance within each range color. So with 5 different color codes from RED to WHITE could be as much as 25% difference. Mesa amps have a pretty wide bias range if you think about it. I have learned over the years with my +'s and know there ranges with a bias meter. I have only purchased 1 pair of GC6L6 USA that was to hot for my liking. Anything labeled FENDER, GROOVE TUBE, PEAVY usually fall in the range. Labeled MESA no worries for sure. Get RED or YELLOW and be Safe, get BLUE or the illusive white label and you are HOT but ok.... Do yourself a favor and get a bias probe and it will un luck the color code Mystery. The only way to know for sure is a bias probe and know the range.. Mesa amps are TANKS!!!!!

Thanks for the advice. I do have a bias probe and that works great for the center two tube sockets but you can't get a correct reading for the simul sockets due to the way simul class works. Do you think Mesa green labeled 415 will work in the simul sockets? My plate voltage is at 440V. I was told not to go above Mesa labeled red tubes in the simul sockets.

 

[kippiejr]

Who advised about not getting reading because its simul-class? If you have a bias meter that can read all four sockets then you can easily see what all sockets are doing. The outer sockets push pull off the inner sockets. If you run in simul-class 90 watts your fine with any color Mesa tube. The only issue is running in class A, outer sockets could get to hot because there not pulling off the inner sockets anymore. With this is mind, Red would be the safest being the coolest, but still meter it if you plan on Class A only. For fun try finding a set of tubes where all 4 are the same mA's while in simul-class... But with Mesa amps it is not necessary. Just another option in the Tone quest. You can even balance 6L6 with EL34 mA's across. But if you want to run just 2 6L6's get a 60 watter.. If you want all 6L6's just leave it on simul-class and your fine. Class A is best served with EL34's, But not always... :twisted: Red is always the safest (coolest) and will last the longest. Every time I get a amp back from Mesa for repair or mod it ALWAYS comes back with RED's.. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[psychodave]

^ I hear what you are saying, but I think I have the same question as the OP.

If I have a quad of matched tubes and say they are 32mA @450 volt. When I put them in a simul class Mark amp, the inner tubes read 32mA and the outer tubes read something like 58 mA. Clearly they are drawing different numbers. I think the OP is asking what would be a safe mA number for the simul class tube sockets with 6L6's? Clearly the 58mA seems high. I know the outer simul class sockets always run in class A, so 58mA is like 80%? (Just a guess for sake of argument).

I run reds in my simul that draw like 20mA for the outer simul sockets.

 

[kippiejr]

^ I hear what you are saying, but I think I have the same question as the OP.

If I have a quad of matched tubes and say they are 32mA @450 volt. When I put them in a simul class Mark amp, the inner tubes read 32mA and the outer tubes read something like 58 mA. Clearly they are drawing different numbers. I think the OP is asking what would be a safe mA number for the simul class tube sockets with 6L6's? Clearly the 58mA seems high. I know the outer simul class sockets always run in class A, so 58mA is like 80%? (Just a guess for sake of argument).

I run reds in my simul that draw like 20mA for the outer simul sockets.

You can't really take a quad of 6L6's at 32mA because while that is ideal for inner its a bit hot for outer. Not necessary, but
if you want to run 6L6's in your simul-class then put cold ones in the outer and hotter in the middle and the push pull will even them out somewhat. Basically what ever you put in the middle will effect the mA of the outer and visa versa. I found a quad out of the 20 6L6's I had that when put together it was 38mA across.
I do not have mA tester/reader with adjustable plate voltage. And most sellers do not register mA at 450V. There is a seller on line that does. I get them from him for his readings are pretty close to what I see in the Mesa IIC+. The so called 38mA matched quad are labeled Peavy and the others are labeled Fender. A little research of my ebay account and I could probably tell you what mA they where label at. But that all changed when put in simul-class. LOL. But I still prefer GC6L6 USA 38mA in middle and =C= El 34's in outer that are sold in the 30'smA's but are hotter because they where never mA'ed at 450V. I think 43mA if my memory serves me.. I have found by trial and error in My C+ that 6L6 red plates at about 70mA. Some just keep climbing and I yank them before they take something with them. Heck put the 58mA in turn the amp so you can watch the tubes as you play, you will see the red plate glow start pretty quick if it is to hot, Just turn it off quick and your fine.. But don't be surprised if you like the sound of cooler tubes..I did! Mark series Amps are tanks.
To sum up using Mesa color codes.. If you put Red in the outer and inner then the inner are like 8mA..lol.. But thats ok if it sounds good to you. If you put Reds in outer get green for inner and they could balance out to yellows.. But with Mesa's allowed variance within color codes you probably need 10 sets of different duets to find 4 across that are equal..lol.. Simul-class is really designed for the 6L6 and EL34's. I advise keep this way or get a 60/100 if you want all 6L6's. Keep in mind the 2:90 was a simul-class amp and all shipped with 6L6's from Mesa... how.. TANKS!!!
Conclusion, dont occupy yourself with numbers and color codes. Use you ears to what sounds good. Or watch the tubes during a practice if you think they are too hot.. you'll be surprised the lick'en they take, a keep on tick'en. Besdies it usually the shorted tube that takes prisoner as it goes... :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

 

[gts]

I've looked at 5 pairs of 415's that I have and none have color codes printed on them anywhere.
Not on the glass or the base of these ten tubes.
Am I missing something? Where is the color coding shown?

 

[psychodave]

I've looked at 5 pairs of 415's that I have and none have color codes printed on them anywhere.
Not on the glass or the base of these ten tubes.
Am I missing something? Where is the color coding shown?

These have the typical color coding Mesa uses.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=171764737761

 

[kippiejr]

I've looked at 5 pairs of 415's that I have and none have color codes printed on them anywhere.
Not on the glass or the base of these ten tubes.
Am I missing something? Where is the color coding shown?

These have the typical color coding Mesa uses.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=171764737761

I dont think the had robo tube back then. The ones on ebay are recent stashed purchase from Mesa