Tube color codes

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Armando

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Hey,

Does anyone know what the "color coding" colors signify? Are some better than others? This is relating to Mesa power amp tubes(6L6 and EL34).

Thanks in advance!
 
It's simply different "ratings" to match the fixed bias on Mesa amps. E.g. instead of adjusting the bias in the amp to match tubes, the tubes are sorted into "color groups" depending how "hot"/"cold" they are relative to a fixed bias setting. None is better than the other. You usually will find tonal/feel variations running a cooler tube as opposed to a hotter, but Mesa's scale is so narrow (small differences) that it really doesn't make much difference. It's mainly to match certain older amps (early Marks for instance: an simul-class export Mark IIC+ has to have RED rated 6L6s in the outer Class A sockets).

More about this in detail here:

http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/Rating.html
 
TheSoulsRemain said:
There is no color code on Mesa tube !!!!!!

source : http://www.mesaboogie.com

Sure there is.

Source: http://www.mesaboogie.com/US/What_s_New_/Amplitudes/Tone_Tips/tone_tips.html#TONE
 
the tubes are sorted into "color groups" depending how "hot"/"cold"

Our tubes don't run hot or cold...They run RIGHT

:mrgreen:

You can't "run" your amp hot or cold with Mesa tubes.
The 3 letter codes :
Mesa/Boogie tubes have a three letter color code at the base of the tube used to group the tubes into matched pairs. These color codes do not apply to different tonal variation (the number and two letter codes with the color code are Production Batch #'s and Tester's initials respectively).

The only ways to BIAS correctly your amp are :
Buy only Mesa tubes matched for your amp.
Buy at a good shop tubes matched for your amp (ie : eurotubes.com)
Biasing your amp correctly by measuring the Bias.
 
Octavarius said:
It's simply different "ratings" to match the fixed bias on Mesa amps. E.g. instead of adjusting the bias in the amp to match tubes, the tubes are sorted into "color groups" depending how "hot"/"cold" they are relative to a fixed bias setting. None is better than the other. You usually will find tonal/feel variations running a cooler tube as opposed to a hotter, but Mesa's scale is so narrow (small differences) that it really doesn't make much difference. It's mainly to match certain older amps (early Marks for instance: an simul-class export Mark IIC+ has to have RED rated 6L6s in the outer Class A sockets).

More about this in detail here:

http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/Rating.html
Excellent info there, base on that chart where they have the mesa color system compare to the GT # system, that is why i have mesa's 6L6 STR 440 code green in the first and forth position and mesa's 6L6 STR 440 code blue in the second and third position on the power tube location on my mark 5.

that's great info!!!!!!!! :wink:
 
TheSoulsRemain said:
the tubes are sorted into "color groups" depending how "hot"/"cold"

Our tubes don't run hot or cold...They run RIGHT

:mrgreen:

You can't "run" your amp hot or cold with Mesa tubes.
The 3 letter codes :
Mesa/Boogie tubes have a three letter color code at the base of the tube used to group the tubes into matched pairs. These color codes do not apply to different tonal variation (the number and two letter codes with the color code are Production Batch #'s and Tester's initials respectively).

The only ways to BIAS correctly your amp are :
Buy only Mesa tubes matched for your amp.
Buy at a good shop tubes matched for your amp (ie : eurotubes.com)
Biasing your amp correctly by measuring the Bias.

Ok, I don't think you quite understand some of the bias terms here. I'd suggest you first read the bias adjustment white paper, published under "Articles" on the Mesa site. Next:

What Mesa is talking about here is tubes that run too hot or too cold. Often when talking about tubes in an amp that run too cold, for instance, you say "the tubes run cold". As in saying that they run cold in relative to the amp's current bias range.

To get this straight: no company can make/sort production tubes that match every fixed amps bias PERFECTLY, SPOT ON. That's just not possible, and it is, from a marketing point of view, not profitable either, concidering it's not really necessary: as even though the bias is fixed it has a certain tolerance range. Thus, desirable results can be achieved by narrowing the bias range of the tubes. Which is exactly what Mesa is doing. They have established a specific bias range for the tubes so that every Mesa-rebranded tube will run "right" as they say it. In other words: every Mesa tube will run well within a fixed-bias-amp's tolerance range. Now, if you read my first post on this matter, you'll see I've mentioned exactly that, thus only confirming their statement. Which is: they simply have a much narrower bias range (if you clicked on my link, you would possibly had noticed that) on their tubes that is well within what their amps' fixed bias setting can handle. So: they vary, but in a very narrow range. Got it?

Good. So in that narrow range, there is still variation, which was what I was saying in the sentence you quoted (e.g. one color code is a tiny bit hotter or cooler tube than another color code).

That's also why the color codes are used to match the tubes into pairs, as even though an amp with fixed bias can tolerate the whole Mesa-tube range, the push-pull circuit (read on this in Randall Smith's article: Class A: Exposed and Explained) is much more sensitive to bias variations, which is why the pairs must be within one color group.

Hope I'm making myself clear enough now!

If you're still in doubt, you're free to browse the Tubes-section on this forum, where several forumites have tested the color coded tubes to confirm the bias variations. I also have several emails from the guys at Mesa recommending specific color codes for my older Mark IIC+.
 
If you want perfect tone instal a Bias Trimpot. That way if your recording set Bias for 70% MAX D. You get the god like tone saturation sustain, then for every day use set for 60 65% for longer tube life. Most stock boogies are set ice cold just above cross over distortion. My MK3 SIMULCLASS the EL34s were reading 24.9 MA with new 447s & 6L6 440s reading 21.9 MA, & those are the hot ones, just a hair past cross over on my Tektronix 468 scope, I repair o,scopes by the way. To sum up if you have an older MK amp get the Bias mod beware most scimatics are way off or dead wrong the one in the Tube Amp Book, it states to use 50K trimpot with this your starting hotter than stock with not much range. I use a 150K or 200K Bourns 20 turn cermet trimpot 150c temp, switch out the 68K for a 140K res that way you can go as cold or as hot as you like :idea: . All the big boys & girls record with this mod in there amps, you now there names if they have a platinum album then righty right shredy shred.
 
lshred365 said:
If you want perfect tone instal a Bias Trimpot. That way if your recording set Bias for 70% MAX D. You get the god like tone saturation sustain, then for every day use set for 60 65% for longer tube life. Most stock boogies are set ice cold just above cross over distortion. My MK3 SIMULCLASS the EL34s were reading 24.9 MA with new 447s & 6L6 440s reading 21.9 MA, & those are the hot ones, just a hair past cross over on my Tektronix 468 scope, I repair o,scopes by the way. To sum up if you have an older MK amp get the Bias mod beware most scimatics are way off or dead wrong the one in the Tube Amp Book, it states to use 50K trimpot with this your starting hotter than stock with not much range. I use a 150K or 200K Bourns 20 turn cermet trimpot 150c temp, switch out the 68K for a 140K res that way you can go as cold or as hot as you like :idea: . All the big boys & girls record with this mod in there amps, you now there names if they have a platinum album then righty right shredy shred.

You sound like a salesman. Only without a product to sell. I admire your ideology, though:

lshred365 said:
If you want perfect tone instal a Bias Trimpot.

:D
 

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