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[Anonymous]

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[Boogiebabies]

It's a Green Stripe.

The only thing out of place is the two large sandblock resistors in series with the two main green heater taps from the power transformer.
The wires are usually soldered right to the board, but I have never seen an export MK III this close so it may be factory. They are at the bottom left of the board.

She's the real deal.

Enjoy.

Mystery tranny 1.

Reverb

Mystery tranny 2.

Choke

Mystery tranny 3.

Export Power

Mystery tranny 4.

562003 Output

 

[Boogiebabies]

The teal stripe and "R" for Reverb mod, supposedly done at the factory before the amp was shipped.

The "R" was done at the factory. I called with my serial number and there was no RA.

Serial 249xx, it's the lowest green or highest blue I've seen.

Stranger things have happened.

Chassis dated April -89.

Why yes, it is.

Wiring done December or April -89? I'm confused.

Not European dating. It's April 1989.

Some kind of signature.

Mark of the Beast, or Prince.

The undeniable green stripe power tube wiring?

You can't see it here.

Short intermission. Dogs getting cranky.

Nice clean teeth.

The 200W EV speaker. It sounds GREAT for tight distortion. Barely moves at all. :lol:

You are now a God among Swedes.

 

[Anonymous]

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[Boogiebabies]

No, thank you.
It's awesome that you have and early export Green Stripe and you shared the joy with us.

One last thing.

The brass tab near the left rear SUS mount needs to be bent back down so all the fingers touch the chassis when you slide it back in.

 

[Anonymous]

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[Shep]

well instead of the sand bock resistors i have large wattage thick black one's.. i don't have any sprage bais cap's...there all the same black/blue one's..

it seems to me that your amp is very dusty.. try getting a can of compressed air and get some of that off the board..

very nice amp..

 

[Anonymous]

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[Boogiebabies]

Maybe the export transformers were a bit out of spec on the heater supply voltage. The two resistors may be needer to get it down to 6.3V.

 

[psychodave]

Okay, now I am confused. My Mark III blue stripe has the same power tube wiring...which would make it a green stripe... comments on my picture???

 

[Anonymous]

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[psychodave]

Yeah, I was under the impression this is the resistor people are talking about.

That is a capacitor.

 

[Anonymous]

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[psychodave]

Ok, I think I got it now. It's discussed here (with photos) - http://forum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?t=10308

Rabies: "According to MB, the 3rd pin should connect to the 4th pin on blue stripes."

(I'm guessing the capacitor goes from pin 4 to 5)

Boogiebabies: "Mesa's Class A wiring in Simul's was connecting the plate ( Pin 3) to the Screen ( Pin 4 ) by means of the screen grid resistor. If pins 3 and 4 are not connected it's wired as a Pentode. If pins 3 and 4 are connected with the screen grid resistor it's triode."

From http://homepage.mac.com/mesaboogie/dot.html - "Green/Simul-Class: ..unlike other Simul amps, these Mark III's were wired in Pentode - NOT triode in the Class A sockets for more power."


Psychodave, it looks like we both have a Green Stripe!

Wow, great post. Thanks. Looks like it is a green strip for both of us.

 

[Boogiebabies]

Yes sir, it's a Greenie. Welcome to the club.

I can tell you, and will post some pics ASAP that the later MK III's use much fewer metal film resistors. I ran mine for an hour through the G-Flex 2X12 and I swear I was Vito Bratta. That ***** just oozed fat tone with a great ballsy bottom end.

All hail the Green Stripe.

 

[psychodave]

Yes sir, it's a Greenie. Welcome to the club.

I can tell you, and will post some pics ASAP that the later MK III's use much fewer metal film resistors. I ran mine for an hour through the G-Flex 2X12 and I swear I was Vito Bratta. That ***** just oozed fat tone with a great ballsy bottom end.

All hail the Green Stripe.

Funny that you say this because I hear that tone as well as George Lynch tone. I am surprised Lynch never used a Mark Series amp.

BTW, I am happy with my "green" stripe. I actually prefer the punchy Pentode sound...at least I do with my Mark IV. I still would like to add a switch to be able to go from pentode to triode on the outside tubes. I would love for someone to draw up a diagram written on a 3rd grade level. :lol: