Phat Mod for TriAxis - What is it?

[vanman]

Guys, what is the phat mod and how do I know if I have it? I purchase a demo from Guitar Center 6 months ago. I assume it's the version 2 - recto mode. I don't know what everyone is talking about when referring to the Phat Mod. Would someone please explain it to me?

Thanks,

 

[xcpointx]

from another board, not sure how true it is:

The TriAxis was introduced to the world in October 1992 and began with serial
#T0001. That would have been the 1.0 software version. In January 1993 the
version 2.0 software was introduced. That would have been somewhere around
serial #T1700. In 1997 around serial #T5000, all TriAxis were leaving the
factory with the Phat MOD was part of the software. The Phat MOD only affects
Lead One RED. It simply smoothes out the top-end of the Rectifier Sound making
it sound more like the actual Rectifier itself.

The "FAT" Mod

TriAxis' shipped after June 97 have the new Lead One Red as standard specification. So serial #'s below 5200 have the Lead1 Recto mod and above 5200 have the "Fat Mod".

This mod is a circuit change to mode Lead One Red. A kit is available, that will enable an authorized MESA technician to do the work. Look for one in your area, or contact MESA directly.

MESA advises that users test a new TriAxis at their local dealer to see if the new tone works for them, before having the modification done. If you are happy with the sound of LD1, you may not like the change. I believe this mod is for those users that don't use their LD1 mode often. This modification will expand their use of this particular mode.

The current tone is described as being "fat, (of course) singing soloing tones that are super smooth" The high-end has been tailored for more balance.

There are no other modifications available for the TriAxis. The most current software version for the TriAxis is 2.0. Serial #'s above 1700 are version 2.0. When you power on the TriAxis the panel lights will flash a "1" for Version 1 or "2" for Version 2.

http://www.forumusica.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=14744&st=15

 

[vanman]

xcpointx is exactly right. I called Mesa Boogie directly today and they confirmed what xcpointx is saying. I am glad to say mine has it. You can tell by the serial number. And yes, my Lead 1 Red is smooth.

 

[xcpointx]

Can anyone tell me if they have a V 2 triaxis without the phat mod? and what the tone is like for Lead 1 Red?

It seems a lot of people prefer it WITHOUT the mod????

 

[Timbre Wolf]

Can anyone tell me if they have a V 2 triaxis without the phat mod? and what the tone is like for Lead 1 Red?

It seems a lot of people prefer it WITHOUT the mod????

I got my Triaxis in 1992, and it was originally version 1, and I had M/B upgrade the software to version 2 shortly after that came out. But I have not had the fat mod.

I don't use the Lead 1 Red, because it is (in my opinion) much too harshly bright, buzzy, noisy, and unnecessary. Two caveats: 1) I don't shred, and usually (but not always) prefer clean to low-gain, and 2) I use single-coils (Kinman Blues and Vintage Vibe p-90's). What I perceive as excessive highs, might be fine when coupled with a humbucker.

 

[xcpointx]

oh dear... i dont like harshly bright at all...
is the brightness not easily compensated by reducing treble and prescence?

 

[Timbre Wolf]

is the brightness not easily compensated by reducing treble and prescence?

Short answer: "no!"

As you've probably found out, the Triaxis tone controls depend upon each others' settings, as well as gain and dynamic voice levels (thus lending themselves to deep tweakage) . Honestly, I haven't spent enough time in this mode to say I could never dial out the nasties, but I have spent enough time to determine that I'm not interested in spending more time tweaking it.

But I use single-coils in a (dual/stereo) open-back, wide-body 1x12 configuration: you'd get a different response from humbuckers through a 4x12. So I don't want to say that this mode is terribly harsh for every possible need - some may find it to be just the thing to make their toes tingle with excitement! Its all good to somebody somewhere, and there's room in this world for inexplicable things such as the color chartreuse and Velveeta cheese. I hope you don't mind a smattering of philosophy.

 

[xcpointx]

cool thanks so much!

according to the manual the settings of the gain and drive controls in relation to each other have a big effect on 'harshness'. maybe try playing with their relative ratios.

cant wait to try mine tho.

 

[Timbre Wolf]

according to the manual the settings of the gain and drive controls in relation to each other have a big effect on 'harshness'. maybe try playing with their relative ratios.

Yeah, that's correct. As you raise the gain setting, you can really hear the reduction in treble, and vice-versa. As someone who is often interested in clean to mid-gain turf (without being too bright), I have found that subbing lower-gain tubes (5751, 12AT7, E180CC, etc.), in the correct position, has enabled me to raise the gain settings to high levels, to get the treble rolloff, but still have mid-gain sounds.

This is a trick that really is important when recording, when you can change tubes for a certain track. For live use, you may find you have some compromises in one preset in order to have a generally-useful set of sounds throughout all modes. Tube-swapping also pertains to recording different guitars: when I use a neck p-90, I put an E180CC in V1 instead of a Mullard CV4024 (12AT7, for my usual Strat single-coils), as it better suits that higher-output, pickup.

The Triaxis possibilities are vast.

 

[xcpointx]

awesome!

I find it really strange that reading the triaxis manual... (yeah thats all I have for now!!) Lead 2 Red sounds like it will be the one with the overboard harshness and bite/sizzle..

I'm more into a medium higain sound (been using a Carvin Quad X for the last 2 years) so the Triaxis manual's description of Lead 1 Red really excited me... it talks about really being able to PUMP the bass through it without it getting flubby etc etc etc...? getting the chug on the low 2 strings, and the hollow log sound on the 3rd and 4th... which is exactly what im after and not getting with the Quad X.

Lead 2 Red sounds like it has so much shine on it that it cant easily be removed with the treble and prescence control..

 

[Timbre Wolf]

I find that I avoid both Lead Red modes, as a matter of my personal taste. I enjoy the cleans (stellar!) and edge of breakup sounds best. In Lead 1 Yellow I can get almost fuzz-pedal sounds that clean up completely with a sweep of the continuous controller pedal. Very satisfying. That's enough gain for me! So I haven't delved much into the red modes - not my thing now.

I had also been enticed by that description of the "hollow log" sound, but have not found the actuality of it to be to my taste. Perhaps if I was playing a different style? Actually, now that I think of it, I did use the Lead 1 red years ago, when I was playing dropped-D rhythm riffs through a 2:90 - that worked fine. I think that humbucker users would find both red modes more useful than I do, and the sizzle may be just fine.

Best thing to do is to audition those modes. Since you've read the manual, you know how to optimize the settings for each. I'm confident that the Triaxis's versatility means that it has something for everyone. But to find out if a specific mode can be right for you, you've just got to try it.

 

[Timbre Wolf]

I find it really strange that reading the triaxis manual... (yeah thats all I have for now!!) Lead 2 Red sounds like it will be the one with the overboard harshness and bite/sizzle..

Hey xcpointx -

I just happened upon my original Triaxis manual, the tiny little brief one that was published in '92, for the version 1 software. They described Lead 1 Red as "high gain bright British-style lead" and Lead 2 Red as "Bright Boogie lead" so that describes the design concept of each, in a nutshell.

Factory preset descriptions of both say "best with humbucking rear pickup." That 'splains why I don't find them useful with single coils - they were really voiced for humbuckers.

- T

 

[xcpointx]

awesome.. thank you so much you have been really helpful.

I get my TA running next week, so Im sure Ill be back with all kinds of feedback.

I know I've definitely got v2.

 

[imott]

I just happened upon my original Triaxis manual, the tiny little brief one that was published in '92, for the version 1 software.

Mr Wolf...What big teeth you have!!! :wink:

Would you happen to have that manual in PDF format? I have a '92 version 1 Triaxis that I bought used without a manual. I would really love to have such a thing!!!

Thanks!
i

 

[triaxeman]

from another board, not sure how true it is:

The TriAxis was introduced to the world in October 1992 and began with serial
#T0001. That would have been the 1.0 software version. In January 1993 the
version 2.0 software was introduced. That would have been somewhere around
serial #T1700. In 1997 around serial #T5000, all TriAxis were leaving the
factory with the Phat MOD was part of the software. The Phat MOD only affects
Lead One RED. It simply smoothes out the top-end of the Rectifier Sound making
it sound more like the actual Rectifier itself.

The "FAT" Mod

TriAxis' shipped after June 97 have the new Lead One Red as standard specification. So serial #'s below 5200 have the Lead1 Recto mod and above 5200 have the "Fat Mod".

This mod is a circuit change to mode Lead One Red. A kit is available, that will enable an authorized MESA technician to do the work. Look for one in your area, or contact MESA directly.

MESA advises that users test a new TriAxis at their local dealer to see if the new tone works for them, before having the modification done. If you are happy with the sound of LD1, you may not like the change. I believe this mod is for those users that don't use their LD1 mode often. This modification will expand their use of this particular mode.

The current tone is described as being "fat, (of course) singing soloing tones that are super smooth" The high-end has been tailored for more balance.

There are no other modifications available for the TriAxis. The most current software version for the TriAxis is 2.0. Serial #'s above 1700 are version 2.0. When you power on the TriAxis the panel lights will flash a "1" for Version 1 or "2" for Version 2.

http://www.forumusica.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=14744&st=15

I don't understand. :? My Triaxis is T4801 and when it powers up it displays 2 for version 2. But what I don't quite understand is what is the difference between the "Recto Mod" and the "Phat Mod", like what is stated above:
TriAxis' shipped after June 97 have the new Lead One Red as standard specification. So serial #'s below 5200 have the Lead1 Recto mod and above 5200 have the "Fat Mod". Thanks for any help. This is my virgin post here. Nice forum.

 

[xcpointx]

Mine is 7778, so I guess this means I've got the PHAT MOD.
I played it at bedroom levels this morning, sounding AWESOME. Cant wait for band practise tonight with it.
LD1 Red sounds perfect.

triaxeman: As far as I know all the Version 2.0 Triaxis' have the 'Recto/Vintage Lead' for LD1 RED.

The 'phat mod' is a small modification to this mode on model nrs > 5200. This mode is still called the 'Recto/Vintage Lead', but 'phattened'.
So... BOTH versions of version2 have the 'Recto/Vintage Lead' on LD1 RED, they will sound different tho.

Interesting to note is that the Triaxis page in the hard copy of the glossy 2005 Mesa product brochure calls LD1 RED the 'British Lead' mode. Here's a link to the soft copy:
http://www.mesaboogie.com/catalog/acrobats/Triaxiss-04-34-35.pdf

 

[xcpointx]

I don't use the Lead 1 Red, because it is (in my opinion) much too harshly bright, buzzy, noisy, and unnecessary. Two caveats: 1) I don't shred, and usually (but not always) prefer clean to low-gain, and 2) I use single-coils (Kinman Blues and Vintage Vibe p-90's). What I perceive as excessive highs, might be fine when coupled with a humbucker.

How about trying this:

http://www.tubefreak.com/traxmod3.gif

also see:
http://www.tubefreak.com/traxmod1.gif
http://www.tubefreak.com/traxmod4.gif

remember this is from 92 so Im assuming the last one is done on todays units already.

 

[Timbre Wolf]

Thanks for the tips, XC -

I've actually not got a problem with the Triaxis generally being too bright (that first mod addresses global presence), especially as I've optimized it with NOS preamp tubes. I've rarely use the Lead 1 Red mode anymore, (especially since moving away from dropped-D tuning and 4x12 cabs), but I do find it to be too bright with single coils. I can tame its brightness, mostly by setting my guitar volume low, and have found interesting sounds (yes, the "hollow log" sound is there with my neck pickup) this way. I'll bet I'm more of a candidate for the "phat mod" and might consider it, if I become more interested in that mode. Maarten's ("Tubefreak") site is cool, though, and I'm glad to be reminded of the resources he has.

Triaxis modes I love:
- both clean/rhythm modes (with Mullard CV4024/12AT7WA in V2: gain usually set high)
- Lead 1 yellow (with Raytheon black-plate 12AX7 in V1 for rougher sounds: gain high and drive set very low [clean to double-stop crunch] or drive set medium/high [fuzz-like lead])
- Lead 2 green (with Mullard long-plate 12AX7 in V4 for smoother sounds: similar settings as L1Yellow, but drive set more in the middle zone).

Rock on!

- T

 

[xcpointx]

Interesting.

I wish I could hear the difference tubes make. I've been using tube amps (starting with a 70's Marshall JML MKII Super Bass) since 98 and gone through my fair share of changes.

In preamp tubes I cant even hear a difference between JJ's and EH's. One is supposed to quite bright, and the other dark???!!
My amp tech tells me the audio signal doesnt actually go through these tubes, so they dont actually have as much affect as they are purported to be?

The only thing Ive once noticed is using a lower gain tube for the phase inverter to drop the output from the preamp section of the Marshall (at that time I was aiming for crystal clean sounds).

You have obviously been playing for ages too. Ive got 2 Raytheons lying around. What will they do for me that the Mesa tubes in my TA wont? I must also try the EH and JJ's in there.

 

[Timbre Wolf]

Interesting.

I wish I could hear the difference tubes make. I've been using tube amps (starting with a 70's Marshall JML MKII Super Bass) since 98 and gone through my fair share of changes.

In preamp tubes I cant even hear a difference between JJ's and EH's. One is supposed to quite bright, and the other dark???!!
My amp tech tells me the audio signal doesnt actually go through these tubes, so they dont actually have as much affect as they are purported to be?

The only thing Ive once noticed is using a lower gain tube for the phase inverter to drop the output from the preamp section of the Marshall (at that time I was aiming for crystal clean sounds).

You have obviously been playing for ages too. Ive got 2 Raytheons lying around. What will they do for me that the Mesa tubes in my TA wont? I must also try the EH and JJ's in there.

You've got the Raytheons with black plates and halo-getter rings? I use one in the V1 position (closest to the guitar input jack). This tube position is only in use in Lead 1 modes, when the circuit goes V2(1st input)->V1(2nd gain stage). I use a Mullard CV4024 in V2, and I find the combo with the Ratheon to be heavenly.

You could also try the Raytheon in the V2 position. This makes it available for all modes, but you'd especially notice a change in the clean/rhythm modes.

Here's the rub: preamp tube changes are less pronounced when you're maxing out the gain in the circuit. So if you're not using cleans or settings on the verge of breakup, then the impact is reduced.

Also, if you're not noticing changes, don't sweat it. If all tubes seem equal to you, then save your money by buying the less-expensive ones. Do note, however, that the most impact will come from changing the first input valve (closest to input jack), and then the second gain-stage valve. Changes to the phase-inverter (PI) valve (closest to the power tubes in a class AB combo amp [there is none in a preamp]) are more subtle than V1 and V2 changes, but can still have an impact on dynamic sensitivity and power-tube response.

What I've noticed, besides tonal shadings, in a NOS optimized amp is:
- more open, airy, and dynamically responsive (less compressed) feel
- better ability to clean up
- highly articulate detail throughout the frequency ranges
- extended frequency response: higher and sweeter highs, lower and tighter lows
- longer service life (yes, I can say this now, since it has been a few years)
- custom tones to suit one's taste, and the ability to change this at will (for, say, a recording with a different guitar)

- T