Mesa Tubes: Match Group and Code, what are they actually?

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blackcom

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Hi guyes!

When buying Mesa tubes, what is "Match Group" group actually, and what does "Code" mean.

"Match Group" has a color name asigned to it and "Code" just has a number assigned to it....?

Also, I was told by my vendor I had to use the same color code for my rectifier as it came with and if I wanted to use a different color code I had to re-adjust the bias of my recto or my tubes would die faster and my trafo's would melt,.

My recto came with 6L6 STR 430 Match Group GRN Code 05, and when I put in 6L6 STR 430 Match Group GRY Code 10 my fuse started to blow continously. So I took the Recto in for service and when I got it back they told me they had to adjust the bias for my new tubes and charged me for 200 bucks...

It's only that the recto manual and the back of the tube package says that the bias is set and works with all Mesa tubes as long as you use matched colors in pair....and that the Bias should -not- ever tried "adjusted"...

Either the Mesa documentation is not right, or the tech served me some nice BS.....

I don't get it..at all......
 
It sounds to me like you got served a platefull. I actually got the opportunity to be in Pettaluma for a couple of hours while I was on buisness in Oakland california so I stopped by the Tone Farm for a tour. The guy ran me through all of the processing that they do to make sure these tubes work with their amps and I have a hard time believing what he is saying and highly doubt he is a Mesa Certified Technician with that kind of comment. I would imagine that you probably had the speakers mismatched on accident or something quirky happened to blow the fuse. There might be something wrong with the amp but these things are built really well and usually will go a lifetime without having any major issues. I blew a fuse once right after I got the amp from the guy I bought it from on ebay. It was mailed in a road case and everything but it must have been from rough handling durring shipping or something because it never gave me an issue again after I replaced it with a 4 amp slo-blo fuse. No problems and it sounds great-- :wink: Also, $200 to install a trim pot is a little......well.......Christmas in July!! Sounds quirky to me--what other options do you have for service in your area--where do you live? I'll check for Mesa dealers in the area for you if you'd like-- :D
 
From a Mesa rep I was told the following:

The bias is set on Mesa amps to be optimal for tubes in a specific, small range.
All the tubes Mesa sells are within that range and the color is used for matched sets.

I must of looked confused since he then said say on range of acceptable 6L6 tubes for any amp is 50 - 100, Mesas are setup for say 75-76. So green might all be 75.1, yellow all are 75.2, etc. He followed it up by saying those numbers don't mean anything but were just used for explanation.

Was he right? I don't know. Did it make sense, yes.
 
Well, diden't pay the bill yet, and i'm actually not planning to either...however, fuse stopped blowing after the service so they did "something", but perhpas just calling it something else to justify billing instead of warranty...

...thing is, I was arguing pretty harsh with the guyes in the store about this for an hour before I left.......they told me I was wrong and owned them cash.....

eat my poo!
 
You most likely just had a bad tube. You can not bias your amp period...unless you get it modded which would mean getting a trim pot installed. These guys at the store are lying to you.
 
Kung-Fool said:
You most likely just had a bad tube. You can not bias your amp period...unless you get it modded which would mean getting a trim pot installed. These guys at the store are lying to you.

+1
 
Actually I think they modifiet the set bias to be "set" to something else....that's what they said at least...

Anyways.....Mesa Tube packages...I now what "Match Group"/Color Code is....but what does "Code" mean. Like this for exampel "Code: 10"?
 
The word "CODE" on the tube is classified...... Its so you dont find out that they are actually contracting out aliens to make tubes on the planet Pluto. They use a special Flux capacitor to tighten the rotory girter which then intern is turned by the muffler bearing and filled with blinker fluid. The blinker fluid is what makes the tubes have that blue glow when you first turn them on...........

Ok........maybe not.........

Im not sure what it means but what I gather from it is just to make sure that the code #'s and colors match and you should be good. :wink:
 
Micah said:
The blinker fluid is what makes the tubes have that blue glow when you first turn them on...........

Nope. Blinker fluid is used in cars not amps:
"Are you blinkers sluggish? Do they make an annoying ticking noise? Do they not flash fast enough? Here's your solution. Little do people know, factory quality blinker fluid should be changed every 150,000 blinks. Our blinker fluid lasts ten times that. KaleCoAuto high quality synthetic blinker fluid meets the highest DOT standards while not being in the least bit DOT legal! KaleCoAuto blinker fluid provides you with thousands of hours of reliable blinking without the wear and tear on the flash-synchro's that the other blinker fluids cause. KaleCoAuto blinker fluid will not lose its viscosity even in the most extreme situations. Why buy that old dino-blinker fluid, when you can get our unique patented synthetic formula? Satisfaction guaranteed!! For use in any car."



http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=6
 
strumminsix said:
Micah said:
The blinker fluid is what makes the tubes have that blue glow when you first turn them on...........

Nope. Blinker fluid is used in cars not amps:
"Are you blinkers sluggish? Do they make an annoying ticking noise? Do they not flash fast enough? Here's your solution. Little do people know, factory quality blinker fluid should be changed every 150,000 blinks. Our blinker fluid lasts ten times that. KaleCoAuto high quality synthetic blinker fluid meets the highest DOT standards while not being in the least bit DOT legal! KaleCoAuto blinker fluid provides you with thousands of hours of reliable blinking without the wear and tear on the flash-synchro's that the other blinker fluids cause. KaleCoAuto blinker fluid will not lose its viscosity even in the most extreme situations. Why buy that old dino-blinker fluid, when you can get our unique patented synthetic formula? Satisfaction guaranteed!! For use in any car."



http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=6


Youve got it right strumminsix!! And you might as well change those anoying little Muffler belts for the gas tank alternater float while your at it! :lol:
 
I'm so upset they are sold out of this one:
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=40
 
blackcom said:
Actually I think they modifiet the set bias to be "set" to something else....that's what they said at least...

Anyways.....Mesa Tube packages...I now what "Match Group"/Color Code is....but what does "Code" mean. Like this for exampel "Code: 10"?

So they swapped out a resistor with another resistor of different value? This is rediculous. They either have no clue what they are doing or they are lying.

I honestly don't know what the "code" means but as long as the color rating is the same you're good to go. You can use any color rating you wish. You DO NOT have to bias your amp for other color ratings.
 

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