Mark preamp tube positions - V1, V2, V3, V4, V5?

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rippingrudy

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Hi there,

The user manual for the Mark III explains what each of these positions are responsible for except for V2. Anyone know what this tube is for?

Thanks
 
V2A is the gain stage for the R2 overdrive. It is also where the lead ouput comes in and where the lead master is set. V2A is the reverb send as well. V2B is the loop return and is the part of the gain stage that the Pull Deep function is set on the cathode. It also sends the signal to the Master Volume and preamp out as well as the signal to the graphic EQ which gets sent to the phase inverter. One tube, many duties.
 
They say, when you play on the lead channel of a mark III and you pull rythm 2, you get more gain. Is that beacause V2 works as gainstage for rythm 2, so it gives an extra gainstage to your lead if you pull the button??
 
pmb said:
They say, when you play on the lead channel of a mark III and you pull rythm 2, you get more gain. Is that beacause V2 works as gainstage for rythm 2, so it gives an extra gainstage to your lead if you pull the button??

True. The R2 is in when pulled. It should be bypassed and IMO, does not add much to the lead channel.
 
Sorry to bump this, but, please, i also would like to like to know (confirm) that these are the pre-amp tube functions for a MKIII. Thanks all!! :wink:
 
From the schematic.

When you learn tube amp electronics and schematics, it's like looking at Hebrew, but you understand it.

How do you learn?

Reading books and asking people who know tube amps already.
I think Gerald Webers monthly column in Vintage Guitar has taught me more than I could have asked for. He's also very polite and informative in person. He looks like Chewbacca and is just as tall.

So after years of study, I can read Hebrew.
 
No, patience is a virtue. That's why I can read Hebrew. :D

Dude, I have been taking things apart since I was 5. If it moved or ticked or beeped, I tore it apart. Later, I had the biggest thrill in life learning to build Hot Rodded Chevrolet 350's, 427's and 454's. My neighbor was a gear head and he started me on dissasembling the dirty old engines with nothing but a torque wrench and a set of sockets. All by hand !!! Of course as I progressed and aged under his wisdom, I was dropping in pistons, cams, figuring bore sized for specific HP and this stuff was surgically clean. He was relentlessly perfect and his shop was not only cleaner than his house, it was twice the size. no matter what he did, he invested his entire conciousness into it. His mentality was " My Way or the Highway". If you did not take the time to learn what was expected, or have faith in yourself, he would never allow someone to get involved in any of his projects. This guy was a Master Carpenter, Master Glazier, Master Metal Worker, Master Welder and had an aptitude that was beyond belief. Even Mathematically he was a human calculator. Now, I am not saying that I was not already predisposed genetically to being obsessive and overly thourough, but my training sure the hell put me in that direction. If you learn something, learn it right. If you don't want to, then don't talk about is as if you know. There is only one way with me, " My way or the Highway. Someone took the time to spend with a fatherless kid and demand their best. Thankfully, he did it right. I have never paid a single cent in my entire life for an automobile repair. I get my *** in there and do it myself. The addage is correct. If you want something done right, do it yourself.

It's just who I am.
 
So, what would be the most critical preamp tube to swap for a better tone?
V1 for clean and V3 for lead?

Thanks
 
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