Mark III,SimulClass, Blue Stripe_Re Tube ????

[vlakanas]

I love my Mark III. It is a blue stripe(or faded Green), simulclass, black shadow EV 8 ohms,200 watts. Right now I have on the out side winged C 6L6 GC, on the inside Mesa 5881-6L6. I like a Fenderish clean and the crunch available when needed.Im want it clean and lush. It is clean now, however can I do better. Also, the rev., I would like it to be slightly richer, lusher. If you know what I mean! I mostly play a fender strat ultra.
Any suggestions as to a better setup with tubes?
Thanks

 

[Facelift]

First off, your amp isnt 200 watts. Its 75/15 if its a blue stripe, 85/25 if its a green. I wouldnt be too concerned with the power tubes you have in there at the moment but for a brighter clean I would slap some el34s in the outer sockets as just about any 6L6 has a darker overtone. You will also notice a bigger change in tone by changing hte preamp tubes. The general concensus around here is take out hte stock mesa tubes and replace them with a cocktail of NOS tubes. I will suggest RFT ecc83/12ax7. Let it be mentioned that a Tungsram ecc83 is what will pop up in more than one suggestion here as well. If you want crunch, the RFT will deliver. If you want lush harmonically rich fluid like but lesser gain, get the Tungsram. I use both in my MKIII. Brutal.

 

[212Mavguy]

OP was talking about the speaker, not the amp. EVM 12l's come in 200 or 300w ratings...+1 for the vintage tube thang for the pre.

 

[vlakanas]

Thanks there facelift, but yes I was refering to the speaker. And yes it is a blue stripe. Now, I will try what you suggested. Let you know.
Thanks

 

[fishyfishfish]

Tubes for a 200 watt Mark III?
I would go with all =C= 6l6GC OR if you want to spend the cashola some NOS JAN 6l6GC that they have at the Tube Store.
If this is your first venture into NOS pre amp tubes I would suggest getting them from Brent and Jessie recording service, and I would only get two or three to experiment in V1 and V2. I did a lot of swapping around in my M3and I found some old Japanese AX7 in V1 did it for me and didn't cost arm and a leg.

 

[kdorsey]

Facelift's comments on the RFT vs Tung-Sol are spot-on. I recently slapped Tung-Sols in V2 and V3 (leaving the SPAX in V1) and the definition improvement was staggering. A very musical improvement. A couple of weeks later I dropped in an RFT in V1. Wow, another massive change. The brittle top end was gone. And while the attenuation of that high end took some getting used to, I really like it. With some EQ changes, it's a different animal in a good way. My elusive quest to eliminate that tinny and brittle flavor is complete without having to change speakers (like I previously thought). And tubes are a hellova lot cheaper than speakers!

Does anyone know where a definitive guide to the preamp tubes' tonal responsibilities can be found? Lots of mistakes and misinformation floating around. From my experience, V1 and V5 impact everything, V2 is for R2 (and Lead if pulled), and V3 for lead channel.

V1 = general input stage/R1...affects all channels
V2 = R2
V3 = Lead channel
V4 = reverb
V5 = output driver

Good luck with your tests. Post with the results.

 

[MrMarkIII]

Someone who can read a schematic better than I can should chime in, but it looks like the guitar signal first goes to V1-A, then the tone controls, then V1-B (remember each 12AX7 is two tubes in one, with an "A" and a "B" side).
Then the signal can be switched over to V3 (the Lead circuit, with the option to run the Lead circuit through the Graphic EQ), or to the R2 switch, then V2-A. The Reverb input (V4-A), Reverb Tank, then reverb output (V4-B) and effects loop come next, then V2-B. It looks like a bunch of stuff gets mixed together here. Then the Master Volume, Graphic EQ, then V5, the Phase Inverter (or Driver). Then the Power Tubes, Output Transformer, Presence, Direct level, then Speakers.
Of course, I could be wrong. I was once before. :lol: