Mark IIC+ ... Clearer Distortion

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JDGuitaristT

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I've come so close to the sound I want with this amp that I feel very fortunate. But every time I try to get just that much closer, I end up pushing myself that much further. I must over-do my "corrections"...

ANYWAY-

I'm trying to achieve a distortion that is punchy, clear, and throaty. I do not like super saturated tones. I'm actually aiming to use as little gain as necessary to achieve this sound.

I was wondering if there are any tips, tricks, or techniques mark series users utilize to achieve ultimate clarity without leading to shrillness or loss of balls.

One thing I've recently started doing is running my guitar's volume on 3-6 to get more definition and attack. I lose the extra hair by doing this, but I also lose some of the punch running on 8-10 gives me...

The head is fully loaded - I am running in simul-class with 2 6L6s and 2 EL34s. The head is running through oversized recto 4x12. The guitar is a Les Paul.

Here are the rehearsal settings I used today:

Vol 1: 7 pulled
Treb: 7 pulled
Bass: 2
Mid: 5
Mast1: 3 pulled
Ld.Dr: 5
Ld.Mast: 4 pulled
Presence: 3
GraphicEQ: soft V/disengaged


Anything will help guys. Thanks a lot!
 
You've got the settings and the guitar to do it. I would think about finding some EVM-12L speakers (thiele, 2x12 or 4x12 halfback with the upper portion blocked off in the rear). Clear, punchy and throaty indeed. :D
 
would think about finding some EVM-12L speakers (thiele, 2x12 or 4x12 halfback with the upper portion blocked off in the rear).
+1

Also, remember to NOT scoop the graphic EQ.

If the C+ doesn't end up doing it for you, go for a regular C. A C has less gain than a C+ and is more "in your face". My C's distortion cuts through any mix and is very clear with great sustain. I believe a C+ should be able to achive that same "cutting" tone as the C if you keep the gain in check. Maybe you should reduce your V1 gain a little, which may help.

Another suggestion is to try some tube swapping. Make sure your power tubes are fresh - power tubes lose their hi-end and punch as they wear.

Try swapping preamp tubes too. You can even try using a 12AT7's in place of a 12AX7 in a couple of place. These tubes are both compatible/interchangeable and the AT's have less gain.
 
Well, i personally came across with a rule that really helps a lot . . .

i create what i call the "Rule of 15". whatever cames to what settings im using, the sum of the 2 gain knobs on my mark III never pass 15. eg, if the volume knob is on 8, the lead drive will not exceed 7 and so on.

this really helps a lot to maintain clarity and keep the fuzzy away.

my 0.02.
 
Tuna141 said:
Try swapping preamp tubes too. You can even try using a 12AT7's in place of a 12AX7 in a couple of place. These tubes are both compatible/interchangeable and the AT's have less gain.

I will go out on a limb and guess that a good 12AT7 in the phase inverter will do exactly what you want. I am doing that in my C+ and MKI and they both sound better than with a 12AX7. There is slighltly less gain but more clarity. The PI is the single preamp tube in the back near the power tubes.

Get a good 12AT7 as they are cheap. You can find Mullards in the $25 range.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Matched-and-Balanced-Pair-MULLARD-12AT7-WA-tubes-CV4024_W0QQitemZ120155398083
 
Vigo1999 said:
Well, i personally came across with a rule that really helps a lot . . .

i create what i call the "Rule of 15". whatever cames to what settings im using, the sum of the 2 gain knobs on my mark III never pass 15. eg, if the volume knob is on 8, the lead drive will not exceed 7 and so on.

this really helps a lot to maintain clarity and keep the fuzzy away.

my 0.02.

that's a cool concept.
 
Hey, thanks for all the replies. I like the ideas you've all spurted out.

I don't really want to think about selling my 4x12...but a new cabinet or even just new speakers sounds like it could yield huge changes.

1) I've always wanted the traditional sized 4x12, do you think that would help a lot?

2) Also, coming from 4 V30s, would there be a better configuration to use for my needs?

3) If I downsized to a 2x12, do you think I would regret the change? I really love the push of a 4x12 and to think I would be compromising any sort of power scares me...especially, when I'm looking for more punch. Also, I play with loud drummers and in one band play with another guitarist with a 4x12 and a 100W Marshall. Could this be a problem?

4) I'm using GT12AX7-Cs for my entire preamp section. I kind of went out on a limb for this one... outside from the nice suggestion of a 12AT7 in the PI position, what else should I consider? How are the Chinese GTs in the other positions? Are there better alternatives?

Again, thanks so much!
 
When it comes to cab's, bigger is not always better. I have 2 1x12 cabs (one thiele one open back) both with 200 EV's in them, and they cut better than any 4x12 I've played. I usually only play the thiele at gigs and can't usually turn the Mark IV up over 3 without the sound guy yelling at me for my little 1x12 being louder than his sound system :twisted:
 
Here are the rehearsal settings I used today:

Vol 1: 7 pulled
Treb: 7 pulled
Bass: 2
Mid: 5
Mast1: 3 pulled
Ld.Dr: 5
Ld.Mast: 4 pulled
Presence: 3
GraphicEQ: soft V/disengaged

Too many people forget about the Presence control and preconceived notions of tone.

Try this, or something close

Vol 1: 5.5 pulled
Treb: 3
Bass: 5
Mid: 4ish
Mast1: 3 pulled
Ld.Dr: 5
Ld.Mast: 4 pulled
Presence: 5ish
GraphicEQ: soft V/disengaged
 
JDGuitaristT said:
4) I'm using GT12AX7-Cs for my entire preamp section. I kind of went out on a limb for this one... outside from the nice suggestion of a 12AT7 in the PI position, what else should I consider? How are the Chinese GTs in the other positions? Are there better alternatives?

I put the Mullard CV4202 in the PI and am very happy with the sound it helps create. Hard to explain the difference. A little warmer. Bass seems a little tighter.

I also have a NOS Tungsram 12AX7 coming which is supposed to be a well balanced and clear sounding tube. If I like it in the Drive socket, I may get one for the V1 as well.
 

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