LSS 1x12 ch2 vs 4x10
- Thread starter guitarvet
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I'm with the others on the LSS - takes a lot of fiddling about, but there is great tone for Ch2 in there as well. I find using a compressor in the loop helps, although without it I can still get a great overdrive. And this is without any pedals in front of the amp.
I've also taken to using a Teese RMC3 Wah to alter the overdrive tone (rather than for its wah effect) and this makes it sound even more vocal.
I do understand your frustration, as I spent about a month wondering if Ch2 would live up to Ch1 before figuring it out.
I've also taken to using a Teese RMC3 Wah to alter the overdrive tone (rather than for its wah effect) and this makes it sound even more vocal.
I do understand your frustration, as I spent about a month wondering if Ch2 would live up to Ch1 before figuring it out.
SabuJSE
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GV, I've been happy with the tone both at home and at informal jams (indoor/outdoor) with 2 other guitars, bass, keys, and drums. Mostly playing blues / classic rock / jam band stuff. Again, that's running the 1x12 amp and a 1x12 ext cab.
That gig backing up EC was taken by Derek Trucks so I haven't hit the Royal Albert Hall with it yet
That gig backing up EC was taken by Derek Trucks so I haven't hit the Royal Albert Hall with it yet
speedy mcfeely
Well-known member
I use it in all situations, it is my only rig. I think it sounds better in a band situation, but that could me the mojo workin'.
Have you guys tried dialing back the guitar volume and turning up the guitar tone yet? I play primarily Gibsons and find that not diming the volumes leads to cleaner signal and turning up the tone brightens things. Granted it won't give you searing leads but then again all you have to do it turn the knob back up to play leads. I am assuming you know this already though and just forgot this part of playing tube amps. This is critical when playing single channel amps a la JMP. Try it if you haven't.
Hi,
I remenber reading a post over at Harmony Central by I think Jake who was having an overall muddy bass sound. He obtained a mod from Boogie that reduced the bass at the phase splitter stage. It entailed removing the .003uF coupling cap and replacing it with an .001uF cap. He liked the mod and that cured his problem. I have seen on an early MK1 schematic that installs a .005uF cap between the the wiper of the treb control and the top of the vol control. If this cap was installed only on the ch2 tone stack ch1 will be unaltered. The third option that I have installed on my amp is to shunt the 1Meg resitor (with a 100K-220K resistor ) that goes to ground on the drive ch after the coupling cap (.005uF ) and preceeding the 220k series resistor that goes to the drive control wiper. This only reduces the bass when the drive switch is activated and keeps the ch1&ch2 as normal. This also reduces the gain and to my ears makes a humbucker equiped guitar more usable.
John G
I remenber reading a post over at Harmony Central by I think Jake who was having an overall muddy bass sound. He obtained a mod from Boogie that reduced the bass at the phase splitter stage. It entailed removing the .003uF coupling cap and replacing it with an .001uF cap. He liked the mod and that cured his problem. I have seen on an early MK1 schematic that installs a .005uF cap between the the wiper of the treb control and the top of the vol control. If this cap was installed only on the ch2 tone stack ch1 will be unaltered. The third option that I have installed on my amp is to shunt the 1Meg resitor (with a 100K-220K resistor ) that goes to ground on the drive ch after the coupling cap (.005uF ) and preceeding the 220k series resistor that goes to the drive control wiper. This only reduces the bass when the drive switch is activated and keeps the ch1&ch2 as normal. This also reduces the gain and to my ears makes a humbucker equiped guitar more usable.
John G
Hello John G
I tried the capacitor between the treble control and volume control on my 1970 Fender Twin and it worked wonders. I used a .001 uF.
The LS has a tone stack virtually identical to the BF Fender Twin (and 1970 model as well), but I have not seen the schematic for the LSS, so dunno if this would work.
The mod you settled on sounds great (shunt 1 meg), but I'm having a little trouble following your explanation. Where did you get this mod from?
Chris T
I tried the capacitor between the treble control and volume control on my 1970 Fender Twin and it worked wonders. I used a .001 uF.
The LS has a tone stack virtually identical to the BF Fender Twin (and 1970 model as well), but I have not seen the schematic for the LSS, so dunno if this would work.
The mod you settled on sounds great (shunt 1 meg), but I'm having a little trouble following your explanation. Where did you get this mod from?
Chris T
YLO,
The reduction of the shunt resistor after the .005 coupling cap origionally came from Gil Ayan's mod to the MK1 reissue (He used a very low value of 33K ). His mods were all to do with bass reduction and better reverb. There are schematics on the net showing before and after values.
If anyone has any tone issues with their Lonestar then I suggest you contact Micheal Wolf at Boogie, you will find that he is very obliging with mods to fine tune your amp.
John G
The reduction of the shunt resistor after the .005 coupling cap origionally came from Gil Ayan's mod to the MK1 reissue (He used a very low value of 33K ). His mods were all to do with bass reduction and better reverb. There are schematics on the net showing before and after values.
If anyone has any tone issues with their Lonestar then I suggest you contact Micheal Wolf at Boogie, you will find that he is very obliging with mods to fine tune your amp.
John G
Guitarvet
Just wanted to post the results of switching the stock C90 12" in my new LSS to a Weber 12F150 (C12N) in case you are still having problems with muddy tone in your LSS.
The Weber is supposed to be a warm speaker, but wow, it really added top end brightness to the LSS. This improved the clean sounds, especially using the neck humbucker of an ES-335. However, the OD and distortion tones were too raspy, almost to the point of "ice pick in the ears." Dropping the treble and presence controls down helped, but the tone started to sound kind of lifeless.
I also tried adding a tweeter horn from a Fender acoustic amp to the stock C90 speaker with similar results.
I think the LSS does a pretty good job of balancing between bright clean and darker tones for overdrive. But now I'm thinking that a nice Bad Cat Hot Cat 30R with the additional controls for top end would give me even more flexibility than an LSS. I must be suffering from a GAS attack.
Just wanted to post the results of switching the stock C90 12" in my new LSS to a Weber 12F150 (C12N) in case you are still having problems with muddy tone in your LSS.
The Weber is supposed to be a warm speaker, but wow, it really added top end brightness to the LSS. This improved the clean sounds, especially using the neck humbucker of an ES-335. However, the OD and distortion tones were too raspy, almost to the point of "ice pick in the ears." Dropping the treble and presence controls down helped, but the tone started to sound kind of lifeless.
I also tried adding a tweeter horn from a Fender acoustic amp to the stock C90 speaker with similar results.
I think the LSS does a pretty good job of balancing between bright clean and darker tones for overdrive. But now I'm thinking that a nice Bad Cat Hot Cat 30R with the additional controls for top end would give me even more flexibility than an LSS. I must be suffering from a GAS attack.
I was having a similar problem... the gain was entirely too "farty" on channel 2. What I found cleaned it up tremendously, as well as improving the tone of channel 1, was enabling the hard-bypass of the effects loop. Cleaned everything right up. It can still be a bit woofy, but it is tweakable now.
Hope this helps,
Bert
Hope this helps,
Bert
