I put Telefunken 12ax7 on my Mark3

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rex3live

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Well, i found one Telefunken tube here and i put it on V1 of my Mark 3 and i really like the tone very warm and clear!!! Love it!!!
 
I have two telefunken <> bottom in mine and it is outstanding. I also put some NOS JAN phillips 6l6 wgbs in it as well with two ruby 6l6 wgc str in the outer sockets. 8)
 
yeah i have a Amperex Bugle Boy, but im not sure because its kinda long... ill take a pix and post it here...
 
Direwolf said:
I have two telefunken <> bottom in mine and it is outstanding. I also put some NOS JAN phillips 6l6 wgbs in it as well with two ruby 6l6 wgc str in the outer sockets. 8)
I'd be leary of those WGB's in that amp.They arent quite up to what that amp puts on them.They are only rated for 400 plate volts/26 watts and 300 screen volts.I've seen them cook the screens pretty quick in modern amps.
 
stokes said:
Direwolf said:
I have two telefunken <> bottom in mine and it is outstanding. I also put some NOS JAN phillips 6l6 wgbs in it as well with two ruby 6l6 wgc str in the outer sockets. 8)
I'd be leary of those WGB's in that amp.They arent quite up to what that amp puts on them.They are only rated for 400 plate volts/26 watts and 300 screen volts.I've seen them cook the screens pretty quick in modern amps.

Thanks for the heads up. I had them in a BFDR biased at 40 mA with 435 plate volts. I figured if it can handle the DR it should be ok in the Boogie. In the Boogie they are reading 35-36 mA on my bias meter. Can't remember the plate voltage.
 
Direwolf said:
stokes said:
Direwolf said:
I have two telefunken <> bottom in mine and it is outstanding. I also put some NOS JAN phillips 6l6 wgbs in it as well with two ruby 6l6 wgc str in the outer sockets. 8)
I'd be leary of those WGB's in that amp.They arent quite up to what that amp puts on them.They are only rated for 400 plate volts/26 watts and 300 screen volts.I've seen them cook the screens pretty quick in modern amps.

Thanks for the heads up. I had them in a BFDR biased at 40 mA with 435 plate volts. I figured if it can handle the DR it should be ok in the Boogie. In the Boogie they are reading 35-36 mA on my bias meter. Can't remember the plate voltage.
The JAN tubes are pretty hardy tubes,so they will take a lot of abuse,but its still not a good idea to trust them in a circuit that exceeds their specs.
 
stokes said:
Direwolf said:
I have two telefunken <> bottom in mine and it is outstanding. I also put some NOS JAN phillips 6l6 wgbs in it as well with two ruby 6l6 wgc str in the outer sockets. 8)
I'd be leary of those WGB's in that amp.They arent quite up to what that amp puts on them.They are only rated for 400 plate volts/26 watts and 300 screen volts.I've seen them cook the screens pretty quick in modern amps.

http://thetubestore.com/jan6l.html
 
Yeah, I had some EH 6L6s that were mindblowingly awesome (based on the original RCA blackplates) and they eventually fried my screen grid resistors. I now have upgraded to the 5 watt ones...can't wait to get some more...that tone was so killer, I'm sure the JAN's are just as awesome.

The Ruby 6L6's I have in now just don't come close to the tone. Power - yes. Tone - no.
 
Direwolf said:
stokes said:
Direwolf said:
I have two telefunken <> bottom in mine and it is outstanding. I also put some NOS JAN phillips 6l6 wgbs in it as well with two ruby 6l6 wgc str in the outer sockets. 8)
I'd be leary of those WGB's in that amp.They arent quite up to what that amp puts on them.They are only rated for 400 plate volts/26 watts and 300 screen volts.I've seen them cook the screens pretty quick in modern amps.

http://thetubestore.com/jan6l.html
The Tubestore has been running that for a long time,they have a lot of those to sell.If they told you "dont put these in a 6L6GC amp" you wouldnt buy them.Sure,some of them may hold up,but they arent designed to take that much abuse.If you want to take the chance,its your amp.
EH6L6 "based on the original RCA blackplates" sure they are.Putting a higher wattage component,such as the screen grid resistor,will just insure that when the next tubes go they wont take the resistor out before they take something else out.Thats not an "upgrade".
 
I'm not trying to insult your intelligence stokes. I was just passing the tube store info on. If my math is right the wattage in the DR was only around 17 watts, which is within safe operating range. I am curious now though of what the PV is in the Boogie. Correct me if I'm wrong but it is plate voltage x cathode current right? I know this is subjest to taste but to me I dont feel that I get the same response or feel from either amp unless I'm pushing the power tubes into the 80-85% dissipation range. I do keep a watchfull eye on things. To me it's like hot rods. You can build a monster to launch out of the hole, you just need to be prepared to pick up a few piston rods off the track!!! Again I mean no disrespect. :wink:
 
No,no offense taken.And the same from this side.I just see so much disinformation and outright wrong info spread,I try to help clarify things when I can.As for the tubestore,they put some tubes in a circuit and they dont blow up,so they say its okay.In many cases it is okay,but in many it wont be.They sell tubes,so like I said if they told you these tubes are not okay in a 6L6GC circuit,which most modern amps are,nobody will buy them.They sell NOS tubes,which have been sitting somewhere for over 30 years,so I would bet somewhere there is fine print stating they are not responsible beyond replacing tubes,so if your amp blows up.....,I personally wont use anything but NOS in my own amps,but I do understand that when you buy anything that old,it is usually a case of "sold as is".
I also like to push power tubes close or into class A territory,but I am also aware that they wont always hold up.Your BFDR was designed to use 6V6 tubes,so any version of the 6L6 will be "safe",if not optimal.It is a totally different animal than your Boogie,the DR is rated for 22 watts,the Boogie is either 60 or 100 watts,no?So just because they can handle your DR doesnt mean they can handle the Boogie.Unless you bias the tubes hotter in your Boogie,you aint coming anywhere near 80%-85%,most Boogies I've seen stock are no hotter than 30 to 40% idle current.Yes to figure your idle current you can multiply plate volts times cathode current,it is much more precise to use plate v's times plate current,tho.Using cathode current is okay,you really dont have to be exact,but with the cathode current you are also including the screen current.But you are talking idle current,things change when you start cranking the amp,current rises considerably when the circuit starts passing signal.Look,the WGB's may very well hold up,but they probably wont hold up as long as a 6L6GC or some equal tube,and if they fry real quick,its because they arent rated for what you are using them for.It is pretty much the norm to push tube amps to and beyond their limits,they sound better that way,but as a repair person I cant,with a clear conscience,condone using tubes that a manufacturer suggests using at a certain limit,exceding those limits.If a guys amp blows up,I would be responsible.So even if a hundred guys come on here and say "I did it and it works fine",I would still have to argue the other side.Again,no offense taken and none intended,we are,after all,here to discuss and share opinions and experiences.If you like the way the tubes perform and feel safe doing it,go for it,just be advised that I have seen those tubes not live up to the hype.
 
I appreciate all the info man. I've been poking around in BF amps for several years now and while I have figured some things out as to whats what, there is still a big portion I don't understand. Thats what I love about this board. I learn new stuff everyday. Best part is it is less expensive!! What little knowledge my brain has managed to retain has come at a price!! Thats not to say I've gone at it blindly. I have read more than the internet!! :lol: I do appreciate your insight. 8)
 
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