Help! Something else came out with the power tube!

[Guitarted]

I removed the power tubes from one of my IIC+ heads and one of those little metal things that are supposed to be inside the tube socket came out still attached to the tube pin. WTF! Do I just put it back in? Or what? Help!

Thanks.

Dana

 

[Boogiebabies]

The tube pin snapped from the circuit board. You can replace the pin or the whole socket. Depending on what pin and tube it is, it may not even be needed.

 

[Guitarted]

The tube pin snapped from the circuit board. You can replace the pin or the whole socket. Depending on what pin and tube it is, it may not even be needed.

Thanks for the reply.

It looks to me like this tube pin was not soldered to anything. How else could it have been attached to the board? How can I tell if it is a "necessary" tube pin?

Thanks again.

Dana

 

[Platypus]

The tube pin snapped from the circuit board. You can replace the pin or the whole socket. Depending on what pin and tube it is, it may not even be needed.

Thanks for the reply.

It looks to me like this tube pin was not soldered to anything. How else could it have been attached to the board? How can I tell if it is a "necessary" tube pin?

Thanks again.

Dana

Been there with my C+s... the easiest way is to take a picture for us. Which tube was it and what pin is missing?

 

[Boogiebabies]

It does not look like it was soldered because the pin snapped in half. The other end is still soldered to the circuit board.
In a Simul-Class , Pin 6 on all four sockets is unused and pin 1 on both 6L6's is unused. On a 60/100, pins 6 and 1 are unused on all sockets. If it's not one of these pins, you can borrow a pin 6 from the center socket to get you back up and running.

From my post yesterday:

The early to mid production C+ with the brown phenolic sockets are prone to a loosening of the clamps that hold the socket to the base. When the socket gets loose and you wiggle the tube out, you are basically bending the internal pins back and forth where they connect to the circuit board.
Over time they just snap.

 

[Guitarted]

OK, it does have the brown sockets, and it is a pin on one of the inner tubes.

I don't have a digital camera handy at the moment, so I can't take a pic until later. Not that I would know how to post one. How do I tell what number pin it is?

Now, I always thought my long head was a 100/60 watt model as it does not have a simul-class sticker. I have always been curious to take a closer look inside to see if anything idicated it was a Simul-class model and...I think it is Simul-class. The OT has a number of SC 152019B on it. That explains why it sounds clearer than my 100/60 export short head and not quite so over the top. I used to own four IIC+ heads and this one always sonded the clearest (even though one of the other shorties was a Simul-Class as well but that one did not have enough balls for some reason). Anyway...

BTW, I was told this head was owned by Neil Schon FWIW.

 

[Platypus]

OK, it does have the brown sockets, and it is a pin on one of the inner tubes.

I don't have a digital camera handy at the moment, so I can't take a pic until later. Not that I would know how to post one. How do I tell what number pin it is?

Now, I always thought my long head was a 100/60 watt model as it does not have a simul-class sticker. I have always been curious to take a closer look inside to see if anything idicated it was a Simul-class model and...I think it is Simul-class. The OT has a number of SC 152019B on it. That explains why it sounds clearer than my 100/60 export short head and not quite so over the top. I used to own four IIC+ heads and this one always sonded the clearest (even though one of the other shorties was a Simul-Class as well but that one did not have enough balls for some reason). Anyway...

BTW, I was told this head was owned by Neil Schon FWIW.

Here you go, Guitarted.

Do you have a simul-class/class A switch on the back or is it 60/100? If you have a pic of the inside we could tell for sure.

Anyway on the inner sockets pins 1 and 6 are not needed as indicated by that picture I posted (note, that picture is of an outer EL34 socket pre pin 1 mod but the numbers are what I want you to look at). Had this been the outher EL34 socket on the SIMUL model, you would need pin 1.. though simply to do the pin1/8 jump mod had it not already been done. Pin 1 needs to be grounded on the outer EL34 sockets of the simul class amps despite not coming that way.

 

[Guitarted]

OK, it does have the brown sockets, and it is a pin on one of the inner tubes.

I don't have a digital camera handy at the moment, so I can't take a pic until later. Not that I would know how to post one. How do I tell what number pin it is?

Now, I always thought my long head was a 100/60 watt model as it does not have a simul-class sticker. I have always been curious to take a closer look inside to see if anything idicated it was a Simul-class model and...I think it is Simul-class. The OT has a number of SC 152019B on it. That explains why it sounds clearer than my 100/60 export short head and not quite so over the top. I used to own four IIC+ heads and this one always sonded the clearest (even though one of the other shorties was a Simul-Class as well but that one did not have enough balls for some reason). Anyway...

BTW, I was told this head was owned by Neil Schon FWIW.

Here you go, Guitarted.

Do you have a simul-class/class A switch on the back or is it 60/100? If you have a pic of the inside we could tell for sure.

Anyway on the inner sockets pins 1 and 6 are not needed as indicated by that picture I posted (note, that picture is of an outer EL34 socket pre pin 1 mod but the numbers are what I want you to look at). Had this been the outher EL34 socket on the SIMUL model, you would need pin 1.. though simply to do the pin1/8 jump mod had it not already been done. Pin 1 needs to be grounded on the outer EL34 sockets of the simul class amps despite not coming that way.

Ahh...OK. I suppose there is no way for me to tell which pin by looking at the socket itself. I guess I need to remove the chassis from the headbox. I will do that later this weekend. I am sure I will have more questions.

BTW, It is a long head so it simply has a Full Power/1/2 power switch on the front and not a simul-class switch on the back.

 

[Guitarted]

Ok, I took the chassis out and it is a simul-class head. As stated above by Boogiebabies, pin 6 on all four is unused and pin 1 on the inner two are also unused. Also, the chassis has DRG written on both sides of it. Anyway...it was pin 7 on one of the inner tubes so it is a problem. ****, I am not an amp tech. I guess I will be shipping it back to Petaluma.

Thanks again for your help guys.

Dana

 

[JOEY B.]

Just exchange pin 6 for the broken pin 7. Surely you can find someone local who can handle that chore. I am no amp tech, but I repaired one of my pin#2 solder joints. It took longer to remove the chassis than it did to fix the amp.

 

[Platypus]

Ok, I took the chassis out and it is a simul-class head. As stated above by Boogiebabies, pin 6 on all four is unused and pin 1 on the inner two are also unused. Also, the chassis has DRG written on both sides of it. Anyway...it was pin 7 on one of the inner tubes so it is a problem. sh!t, I am not an amp tech. I guess I will be shipping it back to Petaluma.

Thanks again for your help guys.

Dana

I'd hate to see you ship that amp literally across the country for that kind of fix. Just desolder one of the pins from pin 6 on another socket and use that. I'm sure you can find someone locally to do it for you too.

I'd be too nervous to ship a DRG personally.

 

[JimAnsell]

this seems to be a fairly common problem with c+'s.
i've fixed that problem on Stonges c+ 2 or 3 times, and then one on a c+ i used to have.
its pretty easy if you know how to work on amps.

 

[Guitarted]

I suppose I could try it myself. If it did not work out, I could then send it to Petaluma.