I have a Mark IV that I bought new in 2000. I traveled with this amp on the road for about four years and it got pretty beat up. The footswitch got very beat up as well. After sitting in the closet since 2004, I'm trying to clean this bad boy up. I noticed while traveling with this amp, the footswitch cable always took a hard beating. My question is, has anyone modified the cable so that it is detachable at the footswitch? I'm looking to do try this out. Any help would be appreciated. I really need to know what type of connectors to use and where I could get tham.
FU-3 Cable Modification Question
- Thread starter Throc
- Start date
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I replaced my hard wired foot switch wire with a Neutrik 6 pin connector back in 95. This ended my tangle of wires I was 'carefully' shoving in the back of the amp during tear down, all the while trying not to burn any on the hot tubes. I also cut off a 5ft. section of the wire and added ends to it. This gave me a short cable to use when I just wanted the switch in front of the amp. One added bonus I gained was that by putting the connector on the foot switch, it also allowed me to wire the foot switch into my long snake by using (2) of the channels and connecting 6 pin ends.
All in all, the foot switch mod has been great. In 13 years, it has not had 1 problem. The Panel Mount connector I wired into the foot switch didn't fit perfectly with the screw holes (as seen in the pictures), but it was close enough to be secure and sufficient.
I believe these are current versions of the parts I used.
Verify them to be sure.
6 Pole Panel Mount Connector
http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_t2_346005876/NC6MP-BAG_detail.aspx
6 Pole Rt. Angle Connector
http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_t2_701166793/NC6FRX-B_detail.aspx
6 Pole Straight Connector
http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_t2_956058614/NC6FX-BAG_detail.aspx
All in all, the foot switch mod has been great. In 13 years, it has not had 1 problem. The Panel Mount connector I wired into the foot switch didn't fit perfectly with the screw holes (as seen in the pictures), but it was close enough to be secure and sufficient.
I believe these are current versions of the parts I used.
Verify them to be sure.
6 Pole Panel Mount Connector
http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_t2_346005876/NC6MP-BAG_detail.aspx
6 Pole Rt. Angle Connector
http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_t2_701166793/NC6FRX-B_detail.aspx
6 Pole Straight Connector
http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_t2_956058614/NC6FX-BAG_detail.aspx
primeholy
Well-known member
Throc said:
Where did you order the parts?
primeholy
Well-known member
Mongo1 said:I replaced my hard wired foot switch wire with a Neutrik 6 pin connector back in 95. This ended my tangle of wires I was 'carefully' shoving in the back of the amp during tear down, all the while trying not to burn any on the hot tubes. I also cut off a 5ft. section of the wire and added ends to it. This gave me a short cable to use when I just wanted the switch in front of the amp. One added bonus I gained was that by putting the connector on the foot switch, it also allowed me to wire the foot switch into my long snake by using (2) of the channels and connecting 6 pin ends.
All in all, the foot switch mod has been great. In 13 years, it has not had 1 problem. The Panel Mount connector I wired into the foot switch didn't fit perfectly with the screw holes (as seen in the pictures), but it was close enough to be secure and sufficient.
I believe these are current versions of the parts I used.
Verify them to be sure.
6 Pole Panel Mount Connector
http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_t2_346005876/NC6MP-BAG_detail.aspx
6 Pole Rt. Angle Connector
http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_t2_701166793/NC6FRX-B_detail.aspx
6 Pole Straight Connector
http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/210_t2_956058614/NC6FX-BAG_detail.aspx
Did you have to trial and error on where the lines get soldered, or does it matter. I have only done desoldering so far, so I will have to practice at it before I try it. I wonder if my dad can solder? I could give him a call and get him to help!
It definitely matters where the wires are connected. You are basically extending the connector from the bottom of the amp. No trial and error needed, I just used an ohm meter to verify which wire went to which pin (by testing the cut end and the amp end connector). Once I knew that, I just soldered the ends that were cut on the inside of the pedal to the back of the panel jack. It took very little time.
You should be good with flowing a solder joint before trying to work on your pedal. XLR solder cups are not too tolerant of repeated attempts or any serious overheating. Once you know how much heat it takes, its real quick.
Some soldering 101/tips:
* Solder always flows towards heat.
* Keep your soldering iron clean
* Pre-tin your wires before you solder them to the connector.
* Only use enough heat to flow the solder. Too much is BAD
When you solder a wire into the cup, mostly heat the cup with the soldering iron while also heating the wire. Then put some solder on the iron tip, just enough to melt a little onto the cup. The heat will transfer through the solder and flow into the cup. This works because the cup is just warm enough to flow solder. At the same time, the solder on the (pre-tinned) wire will melt into this flow. At that moment, you feed in just a bit more solder to allow it to pool in the cup. You have about 1 second to ensure the wire is where you want it. Hold the iron there to let the heat penetrate the pool and wire. Pull the iron away, and blow on the solder connection to cool it. Done...
This should all take just a few seconds.
Practice, practice, practice on scraps...
You should be good with flowing a solder joint before trying to work on your pedal. XLR solder cups are not too tolerant of repeated attempts or any serious overheating. Once you know how much heat it takes, its real quick.
Some soldering 101/tips:
* Solder always flows towards heat.
* Keep your soldering iron clean
* Pre-tin your wires before you solder them to the connector.
* Only use enough heat to flow the solder. Too much is BAD
When you solder a wire into the cup, mostly heat the cup with the soldering iron while also heating the wire. Then put some solder on the iron tip, just enough to melt a little onto the cup. The heat will transfer through the solder and flow into the cup. This works because the cup is just warm enough to flow solder. At the same time, the solder on the (pre-tinned) wire will melt into this flow. At that moment, you feed in just a bit more solder to allow it to pool in the cup. You have about 1 second to ensure the wire is where you want it. Hold the iron there to let the heat penetrate the pool and wire. Pull the iron away, and blow on the solder connection to cool it. Done...
This should all take just a few seconds.
Practice, practice, practice on scraps...
Bumping up this excellent thread. I just did the mod. Thanks to Mongo1 for the info. My cable was damaged and I was able to shorten it and make it removable. The links for parts are dead so here is what you need -
NC6FRX-B - Right angle connector
NC6MP-B - Panel connector
NC6FX-B - Cable connector (end that plugs in amp. You don't need this to make the cable detatchable, only if you are replacing the end that plugs into the amp)
I bought all three from Full Compass for $40 shipped. Hope it helps someone!
NC6FRX-B - Right angle connector
NC6MP-B - Panel connector
NC6FX-B - Cable connector (end that plugs in amp. You don't need this to make the cable detatchable, only if you are replacing the end that plugs into the amp)
I bought all three from Full Compass for $40 shipped. Hope it helps someone!
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